I wanted to share some pictures and diagrams for the entertainment of anyone wondering how to remove the secondary air system on their Goldwing GL1200 Aspencade 1984-1987.. I'll just jump right into it.
![Image]()
![Image]()
smithluke52
- Status
I wanted to share some pictures and diagrams for the entertainment of anyone wondering how to remove the secondary air system on their Goldwing GL1200 Aspencade 1984-1987.. I'll just jump right into it.
![Image]()
![Image]()
I used gasket maker on the back of the plate as well as retaining the gasket that was already in place.. this is to seal off the opening where the actual secondary air manifold (where four vaccum lines meet coming from intakes) meets the carb manifold/rack.. it is also recommended to plug the opening on the inside with a rubber stoper etc, but I used the 9/16 Dorman freeze plugs (555-008) in the openings by each of the four intakes.. I'll upload those pics next.. I used rtv sealant on the edges of each freeze plug for good measure.
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
btw... for the 84-87 GL1200..
in case anyone is wondering..
fuel: standard.. 1/4 (metric: 6.5mm)
the vaccuum hoses are 3.5 mm.. 1/8 works
the hose diagram with the red X's and blue arrow is to show that the vaccuum hose that orginally went from the slow air cutoff valve to the T connector that connects vac hoses running from SAS unit (at the anti afterburn valve) and the number 4 intake boot (in this diagram, labeled) ... the modifed vac hose routing is demonstrated by the blue arrow. just run your 1/8 or 3.5 mm vac hose straight from the slow air cutoff to the nipple on intake boot number 4, from what I have collected..
will update with results.
I noticed that there is no free version of any book related to the disassembly of these carbs, and I plan to make that a project of mine on here, to help others out...
it is alot...
in case anyone is wondering..
fuel: standard.. 1/4 (metric: 6.5mm)
the vaccuum hoses are 3.5 mm.. 1/8 works
the hose diagram with the red X's and blue arrow is to show that the vaccuum hose that orginally went from the slow air cutoff valve to the T connector that connects vac hoses running from SAS unit (at the anti afterburn valve) and the number 4 intake boot (in this diagram, labeled) ... the modifed vac hose routing is demonstrated by the blue arrow. just run your 1/8 or 3.5 mm vac hose straight from the slow air cutoff to the nipple on intake boot number 4, from what I have collected..
will update with results.
I noticed that there is no free version of any book related to the disassembly of these carbs, and I plan to make that a project of mine on here, to help others out...
it is alot...
hey, just wanted to let everyone know.. the carbs are reinstalled with the rebuild and SAS delete and it is running great! new choke cable working smoothly and the idle is normal now. pretty happy about it.
idling 1200, 1300 rpm.. pretty much wherever I want it to, by adjusting the idle screw..
everything is just set to factory settings.
I did 2.5 on the pilot screws.. some said 1.75 or 2 but I would generally rather be on the rich side than lean.
need a good carb sync tool. been looking at the motion pro carbtune 4.. anybody used it?
by the way, if anyone needs a picture of any part of these carbs, just ask. I might make a thread with detailed pictures.. I have alot of good stuff just from snapping pics as I went.
idling 1200, 1300 rpm.. pretty much wherever I want it to, by adjusting the idle screw..
everything is just set to factory settings.
I did 2.5 on the pilot screws.. some said 1.75 or 2 but I would generally rather be on the rich side than lean.
need a good carb sync tool. been looking at the motion pro carbtune 4.. anybody used it?
by the way, if anyone needs a picture of any part of these carbs, just ask. I might make a thread with detailed pictures.. I have alot of good stuff just from snapping pics as I went.
- Status
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
