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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Bought a 1982 Asp couple of months ago. Bike started good and ran good. Took it to a shop to get checked out. One of my concerns was when cold it sure clanked and spurted when cold. After warming up some sounded fine to me. Tech asked when timing belts were changed and suggested changing them since I had no idea. Carbs were synced and belts changed. Still makes noise like before unless you keep 2000 to 3000 rpm till it warms up some. But now when warm you have to give it a little gas to fire right up. In other words take a ride, shut it off, let it set a bit, hit starter button, won't start, have to give it gas. Didn't have to do that before it was worked on. I don't want to inject a thought I have about the belt tension because of something the tech said. Any way any thoughts or ideas from anyone would be appreciated. Oh intake o-rings changed too.
 

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Welcome to the GWOF fellow Classic Wing owner warnett!

Too little data to help you yet. First, are you confident that the person who worked on it knew what they were doing? The little info you've provided suggests that it's fuel starved, which could be as simple as one of the port screws used to synch the carbs not being tightly closed or one of the large O-rings on the intake elbows not being seated/torqued right.

What you're hinting at is that the tech said the belts were too slack or that they'd jumped a tooth do to it. OK, so if the new belts are on right and the tensioners set right this should no longer be a problem. Hell, it could be as simple as crappy fuel, which is all too common nowadays (just had to run a can of Seafoam through my truck do to it, plus cleaning the battery connections; runs like a top again now.)

Please provide more info and we'll try to help.
 

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Welcome to GWOF from Down Under. When the motor is warm it should idle at 1100 to 1200.(I think the idle can be set too low. When my bike is cold it is idling at about 800 rpms)
Start with the simple things:
Old gas (drain it all, put fresh gas in)
If in a cold area (make sure the chock is working properly)
Make sure there is not a air leaks near the carbs (tends to be worse when the motor is cold)
If in a cold area. heavier oils cause a lot of drag when the motor is cold. Try 10w-40. It is very hot over here and I tried 20w-50. It was too heavy, so now run 15w-40.
Check air filter (can be blocked, maybe something living in there)
Spark plugs miss firing when cold. (put new plugs in)
If it is damp and you have defective high tension wiring (the spark will take the easy route)
While you are at the plugs. Make sure you have the right heat range.
That will give you something to work through. Hope you find it.
 

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I see the 1100 guys are fast to the response today so I'll just say Welcome to the GWOF.:HappyRoll:
 

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Welcome. First of all, cold engines make more noises than warm engines (assuming all is well with them) until they smooth out after warming to operating temp. I'd follow Eric's advice first and go from there if the problem persists.
 

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hello warnett, welcome to GWOF. 1100 wings are known to have a knock at lower rpm's, welcome to the knockers club
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
YOUR THOUGHTS followup

Bought a 1982 Asp couple of months ago. Bike started good and ran good. Took it to a shop to get checked out. One of my concerns was when cold it sure clanked and spurted when cold. After warming up some sounded fine to me. Tech asked when timing belts were changed and suggested changing them since I had no idea. Carbs were synced and belts changed. Still makes noise like before unless you keep 2000 to 3000 rpm till it warms up some. But now when warm you have to give it a little gas to fire right up. In other words take a ride, shut it off, let it set a bit, hit starter button, won't start, have to give it gas. Didn't have to do that before it was worked on. I don't want to inject a thought I have about the belt tension because of something the tech said. Any way any thoughts or ideas from anyone would be appreciated. Oh intake o-rings changed too.
Thought I would repost and explain. There was no start problem before timing belts and intake o-rings were replaced. The start problem is only when warmed up good. It would start by just hitting start button b4 work was done.
I rechecked timing belts and as far as I can tell its right.
The intake o-rings were replaced because there was (the tech said gas) leaking at #4. He said gas, it was green looking to me against the aluminum. I don't understand how there would be a gas leak at the intake of the head. This is a case of "if it ain't broke don't fix it"
About the belts the tech said he tightens belts a little extra to allow for stretch.
 

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I'd go back to the shop/tech who worked on it and insist they fix the problem they created.:Angry_98OLVV:

Alternatively, when it's warmed up, I'd turn the idle screw 1/2 turn clockwise and try the start button without touching the throttle. If no start, I'd turn it another 1/2 turn,etc. It's not fuel starved, it's air starved. It no longer has the leaks of air coming from flattened O-rings. JMHO
 

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Clutch baskets can make a rattle sound and higher the rpm the rattle goes away. It will not make a difference to how it runs.
If you are having a problem with the starting just after a run. The 4 cly wing do that a bit. Turn the motor off and go to start it in a minute or two. The starter will turn slow or not at all. You can help this by putting new brushes in the starter and cleaning the starter and while you are there put an extra ground from the battery to the starter.
 

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Bought a 1982 Asp couple of months ago. Bike started good and ran good. Took it to a shop to get checked out. One of my concerns was when cold it sure clanked and spurted when cold. After warming up some sounded fine to me. Tech asked when timing belts were changed and suggested changing them since I had no idea. Carbs were synced and belts changed. Still makes noise like before unless you keep 2000 to 3000 rpm till it warms up some. But now when warm you have to give it a little gas to fire right up. In other words take a ride, shut it off, let it set a bit, hit starter button, won't start, have to give it gas. Didn't have to do that before it was worked on. I don't want to inject a thought I have about the belt tension because of something the tech said. Any way any thoughts or ideas from anyone would be appreciated. Oh intake o-rings changed too.
Thought I would repost and explain. There was no start problem before timing belts and intake o-rings were replaced. The start problem is only when warmed up good. It would start by just hitting start button b4 work was done.
I rechecked timing belts and as far as I can tell its right.
The intake o-rings were replaced because there was (the tech said gas) leaking at #4. He said gas, it was green looking to me against the aluminum. I don't understand how there would be a gas leak at the intake of the head. This is a case of "if it ain't broke don't fix it"
About the belts the tech said he tightens belts a little extra to allow for stretch.
don't let that tec touch your wing again, belts don't stretch, mine had close to 70,000 miles and were the same leght as the new belts. belts snap in two, as far as the o-rings he just took your money
 

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the only green looking stuff in a wing motor is antifreeze
 

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green stuff

Don't know about the green stuff or the 1100's but on the 1500's when the o-rings on the intakes get old, there will be some yellowish liquid residue on the head. A common thing and I don't understand it, you would think it would be sucked into the head
 

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Lets see who first and I want to thank everone for their thoughts.

detrbuzzard. Wish I could find a tech I have confiniance in. I know everything I read says belts don't strech I was just wondering if being tight could cause the start problem. I know its not good for the tension bearings. One thing for sure I saw the green looking stuff leaking from the I think num 4 intake. Like I said how can gas leak from an intake when its running.

Tatanka Doing what you said would increase my idle right? It idles at the correct rpm when it starts just have to give it a little gas to fire right off.

Eric I think you misunderstood. The starter is fine. Cranks fine. I just think I should not have to give it gas to start when it warm. I didn't have to b4.

Anyone know of a good tech in my area. I live in Seguin, Texas.
I called some shops in my area and asked if they did t-belts and they didn't. Strange.

Thanks again everyone
You are right there. So what you are saying may indicate it is now running too lean. To chech if that is the case pull the spark plugs and check the color.
 

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Warnett you would not want me within a mile of your machine with a tool in my hand. I will just say WELCOME to the forum. I hope the knowledge you have received and will receive will help you.
Ride safe :worthless_without_p



Lets see this bugger please
 

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OK, if your idle is fine when you get it started warm, then it's what we used to call a "vapor lock." Gets us to the coolant leak and some possible overheating. For what it's worth, what is your temp gauge telling you? Is your coolant level dropping? Do you have water vapor coming out the exhaust.

When there is coolant on top of the engine, the coolant tubes near the front are the first suspects, the o-rings shrink/fail over time. Cheap and easy fix, though. The trickiest thing is to find the actual location of the leak, which is not necessarily where it winds up.
 

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all bikes got leaner because of emmissions, late 70's and early 80's hondas seem to be some of the leanest running bikes made at the time
 
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