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Discussion Starter #1
The UPS Man showed up today...I have my luggage rack, floor boards and highway pegs...just waiting for the spoiler to come....

Does any one have words of wisdom on drilling the holes in the rear truck for the spoiler and luggage rack?

? - What type of drill bit?...what speed slow or fast?
? - Does putting tape on the truck prior to drilling work prevent chipping?
? - How do you prevent spider web crackes?
? - Should I apply a sealer to the hole prior to mounting equipment to seal the fiberglass...is it fiberglass or plastic...?

Yes nervus about drilling holes into a $20,000 trunk...slow...slow...slow....

Any help would be appreciated....Thanks
 

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Like my Dad told me, measure twice cut once.... The tupperware on the Goldwing is ABS plastic. A sharp bit will eliminate chipping. so make sure you use a new drill bit and take it slow. Let the drill do the work, don't push too hard. Some guys start with a "pilot" hole and then go to the size they need. Make sure you use all the washers that come with rack, including the risers. When you tighten everything up, don't over tighten. I believe the kits come with star washers, use them to tighten everything up.

Just take your time, you will be fine. I did mine on my 98 GL1500 and it was on there 10 years without a problem. I had the one on my 09 GL1800 done by the dealer as part of the package when I bought the bike. Good luck, get it done and go riding..
 

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i did mine and slow is the word i used the tape it made it easier to mark and see the marks i used a small pilot bit first then the proper size it was pretty simple to do just follow the directions this bike is relitivlly simple to work on i have installed so far the luggage rack, fog lights,highway pegs power outlets in left front and left rear glove boxes good luck take it slow
 

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I put mine on myself also. Apply masking tape to the trunk lid. Set the luggage rack on the tape where you want it, then mark around the legs with a ballpoint pen. 2 holes will go thru the lid and inner liner and the other 2 just the lid. Which means you will have to pull the inner liner.
 

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Good advice from marcsvette and the others that suggest a pilot hole and the sharpest bit you can find. The spoiler actually has the hole locations marked for you in the inside of the trunk under the inner plate (you'll need to take that off for the spoiler for sure and likely for the rack as well). What kind of rack is it? You'll likely need spacers to clear the spoiler (Kuryakin makes some) unless it's a Kuryakin rack designed for spoiler clearance. Hondaline racks don't readily clear the spoiler.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Budoka...the rack is a Kuryakin rack...

Thanks everyone for the advice...will drill slowing...

I will take pictures and let you know how it goes....
 

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Drilling

I'f you have to ask you probably shouldn't be doing it. I mounted the rear railing and I HAD A TALENTED BUDDY DRILL IT. There are very few dealers i would trust to drill either.
 

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I'm with you on this one. I'm pretty handy with a drill and saw but drilling into that trunk sure has me nervous. I've had the rack for a couple months now and it is still in the box. Haven't planned a trip with the wife so no real need to put it on and I'm still thinking about it. Marking it with tape and starting with a smaller bit sounds like real good advice.
 

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All of us who installed the luggage rack went through the same jitters, Mark.
Don't forget to remove the lid liner before you drill.
Be sure you have the unit positioned exactly where you want it.
Mark just ONE hole, drill it, fit the through-bolt... then position the luggage rack again (right where you want it.)
Drill a scond hole... fit the bolt... check the position.
If everything is right, mark and drill the other two holes, and you're home free.
This is slow and tedious, but if you make a mistake you'll have fewer holes to repair.
After the installation is done, you'll feel a little foolish about all that intitial concern. But it was the right level of caution for approaching the job.
REMEMBER TO KEEP THE WEIGHT LOAD ON THAT RACK VERY LIGHT.
 

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ABS drills easily. Position the rack and check it from all angles to make sure it's centered. draw circles around the mount points (on tape if you like). Mark the centers with a pencil. Drill a small pilot hole (the drill is less likely to wander). I highly recommend glueing on an ABS backing plate under each hole. Makes a whale of a difference.
 

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ABS drills easily. Position the rack and check it from all angles to make sure it's centered. draw circles around the mount points (on tape if you like). Mark the centers with a pencil. Drill a small pilot hole (the drill is less likely to wander). I highly recommend glueing on an ABS backing plate under each hole. Makes a whale of a difference.
Mine has two small cracks coming out from the holes. Done by previous owner. I'm thinking glueing a backing plate may prevent further damage. What did you use?
 

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There's an outfit in california sells sheet ABS in various thicknesses and they sell a sample pack pretty cheap. I got all 4 pieces out of one sample. Regular ABS cement will weld it on. I pre-drilled the hole on each piece and cut out & drilled some wood pieces which together with bolts and nuts clamped it all down. I left it clamped for a day or so. Some people have heated and flattened ABS pipe to do this job but I opted for the flat sheet. It's solid as a rock. I'll look around for the name of the sheet ABS supplier and post when I find it.

Found it.
http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/Samples/ABS-Sample;jsessionid=0a010a611f43c8e1af6336e64802bee78e1533f8c919.e3eSchaRch4Re34Pa38Ta38Lbxb0
 

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We're pulling for you Mark! When you complete this endeavor successfully, we can move on to cutting into the seat to install your Utopia backrest. Remember, heroism is nothing more than grace under pressure.
 

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Mounting trunk rack

HI FOLKS:
Remember post on another GL forum, on cracking at lid mount holes. Poster cemented reinforcement material on lid underside and used large fender washers at each mount point. He hoped fix would do the trick and believe he also mentioned NOT overloading rack, which might have caused problem. GOOD LUCK. TTFN.
.....Old Tom aka papasmurf in NH:)
P.S. Will try to locate post & post link.
 

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There's an outfit in california sells sheet ABS in various thicknesses and they sell a sample pack pretty cheap. I got all 4 pieces out of one sample. Regular ABS cement will weld it on. I pre-drilled the hole on each piece and cut out & drilled some wood pieces which together with bolts and nuts clamped it all down. I left it clamped for a day or so. Some people have heated and flattened ABS pipe to do this job but I opted for the flat sheet. It's solid as a rock. I'll look around for the name of the sheet ABS supplier and post when I find it.

Found it.
http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/Samples/ABS-Sample;jsessionid=0a010a611f43c8e1af6336e64802bee78e1533f8c919.e3eSchaRch4Re34Pa38Ta38Lbxb0
Forgot to thank you. I ordered these samples and installed as you suggested and worked great,I'm hopeing it will stop cracks that were already there. Recomend this for anyone installing a rack Thank you
 
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