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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

Long time lurker, really appreciate the knowledge here.

Y/M/M : 1996 Honda Goldwing SE

I've had my Goldwing torn down to do some work on carbs and some chasing down of coolant leaks. The primary coolant leak seems to have been the overflow dip tube. It was quite cracked. I replaced it with a new one and now I'm nearing the end of getting the bike back in one piece.

I noticed a small puddle of coolant on the floor when I came back out to the garage the other day. I wiped it up and a day later without running the engine it reappeared. (The engine was run just fine with no dramatic leaks as part of the coolant fill and vent and carb tuning).

The leak appeared just under the water pump. On inspection it appears that the coolant is seeping from where the small hard pipes go through the water pump cover (picture attached). I examined as best I could above that point and can't see anything wet up above. I can't find anything on the various forums detailing any kind of gasket there, and Ron Ayers makes that look like one piece construction on the fiche.

Does anyone have any experience with this sort of leak? Can it be repaired with new gaskets... RTV, praying to a specific Japanese deity? Am I best off getting a new water pump cover and redoing the fill and vent?

I'm pretty mechanically inclined with a garage full of elderly Japanese bikes and I even have a leak inspection qualification due to work (Nuclear Operations), but I didn't want to throw parts at this if there is a less invasive fix.

Thanks!
 

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I looked the part up on bike bandit seems if you can't stop the leak with silicone you will have to replace the water pump as the cover is not shown as a separate part. Good luck. Hope this helps a little.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'll give the silicone a try and start planning on a water pump replacement longer term. Anyone have any hot tips for this silicone application? Has this worked in the past for anyone? I'm guessing at the very least it has to be cleaned and degreased.
 

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Assuming you're talking about the small elbow and where it mates with the water pump proper.

What is the union, a press fit?

They appear to be different colors, but assuming they're both metal, are they dissimilar metals?
 

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From the parts picture it looks as if the tube is either brass or aluminum and the body forged aluminum, I was thinking that if it were mine I would clean it the best I could and use JB Weld as I have repaired numerous HD covers and they have always lasted there is one out there yet that I repaired in 2003 and still going strong.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Assuming you're talking about the small elbow and where it mates with the water pump proper.

What is the union, a press fit?

They appear to be different colors, but assuming they're both metal, are they dissimilar metals?
Yes. That is where I am seeing seepage. I'm not sure exactly what kind of union it is. But I gave it a light tug when I had the hoses off and it didn't move. I think they are dissimilar. The water pump cover looks like aluminum, the pipes look like something a little harder. Steel or maybe brass as @Barry Dupler said.

From the parts picture it looks as if the tube is either brass or aluminum and the body forged aluminum, I was thinking that if it were mine I would clean it the best I could and use JB Weld as I have repaired numerous HD covers and they have always lasted there is one out there yet that I repaired in 2003 and still going strong.
I think the trick with JB weld will be getting it clean and dry. I can wipe it clean and degrease it, but if it seeps through while the JB weld is setting up, it won't be good for it I'm sure. Nothing to lose by trying it really. I like the notion of JB Weld more than a sealant bead.
 

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Try removing the rad cap that will place the antifreeze at atmospheric pressure which should be enough to stop the seepage if as you said it is only a drop of two over a extended period. JB Weld will set up in as little as 10 minutes and will cure in 10 to 12 hours depending on which product you use. You are correct about the difficulty in cleaning the surface , I would use brake clean and a shop air nozzle to clean as much of the surface where the pipe and casting meet. In an area such as this Q-tips have always come in handy and after you are happy with the results a little rubbing alcholol to clean any residue then JB it. If you have the room I have also used a dremel tool with polishing disks they remove dirt in very tiny spaces and don't remove metal. The HD cases I have fixed I did on the bike and never drained the oil, one along the road after a get off never had a problem. Hope this helps.
 

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Initial response is positive. I globbed the quick setting JB Weld on after cleaning thoroughly with simple green and a rag. Access to the pipes wasn't great, so I did the best I could. After 24 hours, no visible drips. I started and ran the bike for ten minutes idling. Still no drips. I'll let it sit and think about what it's done and see if it's a lasting fix after running.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I went ahead and fully reassembled my Goldwing, I'm multiple days now without any drops. Now weather and work permitting I'll get back to riding.
...
With jug of coolant in my trunk that is, and constant monitoring of level in the overflow tank.
 
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