Thanks.. looking foreward to watching 'Prelude to the dream' tonight. Only asphalt racing I have done was in an INEX Thunder Roadster at Texas Motor Speedway's short track a few years back while at the Honda Training facility in Irvine. Set a sloppy quick time that day and rolled in with hot brakes. Nothing like dirt racing around here where ya might as well throw my brake pedal away... lolG,
We accept mail at any address. Good to have yoou on the site. Ex racer here myself, open wheel formula cars. Now just a crew chief. Ride safe & enjoy.
Nice to meet ya my friend !!how about i say " hello and welcome to GWOF " gimpster right here
Resident mechanic, aye ? Haha, interesting.. The best oil ? there are a lot of opinons on that topic. Depends on the demand implied per Wing. Solo riding to pulling a trailer loaded down will vary my suggestion. Basic oil to look for of coarse is bike specific. I seek demands set forth in oils with a good residual in the detergent area because of the wet clutch and also polymeres to keep it from breaking down in gearcases as well as anti-foaming. As far as a mineral oil, the Honda line oil stands up well, almost a standard for a minimal guidline if you look into tech data sheets per oil. Synthetics have picked up over the years in stability that in most cases I lean towards them. Adheasion in chemical mix of current synthetics have not been seperating inside the engines from heat or compression of gears and keeping friction of clutches under control. Seeing less and less failures in synthetics than back when they were first introduced to the motorcycle world. Now if we could only say the same for oil filtration. The need to change oil filter only between oil changes still exists in the synthetic era. The oil outlasts the filter to date, no matter the micron capability of the filter paper composure. Myself, I stay away from oils labeled fuel economy on their bottle facing as many of their friction inhibitors are harmfull for the clutch and gear assemblies.A link to a link. Clever trick, Gimpster! I see Two Wheel Wing has already christened you a resident mechanic based on your resume'. Remember, it's all about the points here: the more you post, the more points you earn. I just earned a point for pointing this out. We look forward to your " peeking into this joint ". While we have you, and based on your experience and history, " What's the best oil to use in the Goldwing ? "
Not quite sure your logic works. If the oil is clean it probably means the filter is doing it's job. I always replace the filter when I change the oil. I personally change the oil and filter every 5k with Honda synthetic blend. Honda recommends 8k with dino oil. 5k is an easy number for me to remember. JMHO..Thank you for the oily insite. Let me ask you, if a person changes oil at 3000 miles, is it necessary to change the filter? Why waste money if you don't havbe to? I think if the oil is clean, the filter must be clean also. So why change it? let me know. Thanks.
I was going to change my final drive this weekend. I have 2 un-opened quarts in the basement of " YAMALUBE FRICTION MODIFIED SHAFT DRIVE GEAR LUBE" SAE 80W-90, API SERVICE GL4-GL5, was using in my 1300VTX. Can I dump it in the Goldwing since I have so much of it ?Resident mechanic, aye ? Haha, interesting..
The other end of the spectrum is rear final drive gear oil where I have had absolutely zero failures, I stand firm on Bel Ray Gear saver...
Like I mentioned above, when it comes to oils, I research any tech data sheets before cracking a cap open on a jug of their brand. I think I have been around bikes too long...lol
Just my 2¢
----- Gimpster -----
Gee, bill. I don't know what your having, but whatever it is, I'll have a double shot.Thank you for the oily insite. Let me ask you, if a person changes oil at 3000 miles, is it necessary to change the filter? Why waste money if you don't havbe to? I think if the oil is clean, the filter must be clean also. So why change it? let me know. Thanks.
Hmm, I can't find the data sheets on the Yamalube ?I was going to change my final drive this weekend. I have 2 un-opened quarts in the basement of " YAMALUBE FRICTION MODIFIED SHAFT DRIVE GEAR LUBE" SAE 80W-90, API SERVICE GL4-GL5, was using in my 1300VTX. Can I dump it in the Goldwing since I have so much of it ?
Finally after all these years, I step up to Gold Wing forums with war stories from behind the lines !!Gimpster,
I know you from the other forum, welcome to this one the more the merrier. Greetings from Florida.