[Techdude2000]

Rob , can't thank you enough. I ordered the part last night. Haven't redone all of the checks but I will. can I test the fix by plugging the cancel unit in or must I mount it? It is not over between you and me as I am in debt to you.I will post the results. Thank you for putting up with my marginal trbl shoot skill. Your last text was so spot on about how I had to be doing something wrong. Check those fuses and your test equip multiple times. My best advice,see you soon. Kevin

You’re welcome, yes you can just plug the new cancel unit in to see if it’s going to work without it mounted. The cancel function won’t work unless the bike is moving, but it should still activate the flasher.

 

[kevinm]

You’re welcome, yes you can just plug the new cancel unit in to see if it’s going to work without it mounted. The cancel function won’t work unless the bike is moving, but it should still activate the flasher.

You’re welcome, yes you can just plug the new cancel unit in to see if it’s going to work without it mounted. The cancel function won’t work unless the bike is moving, but it should still activate the flasher.

Hey Rob sorry for going dark, My wife became a little aggravated at the amount of time I was spending on the bike. Christmas is a pretty big deal here. So I stopped the bike repair and helped decorate and clean the house. Got the new cancel unit and no change. Hey Rob if the flashers work normally does that eliminate the flasher and flasher wiring as a possibility? My biggest clue now is when I ground the blue green wire on the flasher 3p connector the turn signals work normally, they will not cancel when I push the button I have to slide the switch back to the middle. Could it be a ground or a diode? Thanks again and Happy New year.

 

[Techdude2000]

Hey Rob sorry for going dark, My wife became a little aggravated at the amount of time I was spending on the bike. Christmas is a pretty big deal here. So I stopped the bike repair and helped decorate and clean the house. Got the new cancel unit and no change. Hey Rob if the flashers work normally does that eliminate the flasher and flasher wiring as a possibility? My biggest clue now is when I ground the blue green wire on the flasher 3p connector the turn signals work normally, they will not cancel when I push the button I have to slide the switch back to the middle. Could it be a ground or a diode? Thanks again and Happy New year.

Hey Kevin. Since the new cancel unit didn’t fix it, there’s still something missing. When you ground the blue/green wire at the flasher that’s only confirming the flasher is good. To test the dual diode in the circuit, unplug the green connector and ground the blue/black wire at the green connector that runs to C17. With the key turned on, grounding that wire should activate the flasher. If it doesn’t, then the turn signal diode may be open or have a bad connection on its plug. If the flasher activates, then the diode is good.

 

[kevinm]

Thanks rob ,on it

 

[kevinm]

Hey Rob did the test and the 10 amp horn turn fuse blew. What do you think that would indicate?

 

[kevinm]

unhook 7p green connector, ground blu blk wire on the harness side fuse blew.

 

[kevinm]

I grounded the blu blk wire close to the green connector that is okay isn't it? Used a bed of nails alligator clip like is used on telco wires.

 

[Techdude2000]

I grounded the blu blk wire close to the green connector that is okay isn't it? Used a bed of nails alligator clip like is used on telco wires.

Ok, any chance your ground clip accidentally touched another pin or wire? Grounding that wire should not blow any fuses, if the circuit works correctly, grounding it will activate the flasher relay and energize the position light relay.

 

[kevinm]

Will try again, was pretty careful. I have plenty of fuses. I didn't see any reason it would blow the fuse as well. Could a shorted diode cause that? Thought I would read the blu black wire for continuity to ground and see if I read a short. Make any sense? How about reading the diode without removing it? By tracing the wire to a point where you could read it. I think you have to remove the fairing and the radiator to get to the diode, is that right?

 

[Techdude2000]

Will try again, was pretty careful. I have plenty of fuses. I didn't see any reason it would blow the fuse as well. Could a shorted diode cause that? Thought I would read the blu black wire for continuity to ground and see if I read a short. Make any sense? How about reading the diode without removing it? By tracing the wire to a point where you could read it. I think you have to remove the fairing and the radiator to get to the diode, is that right?

Did you have the cancel unit plugged in? It needs to be unplugged for this test. The diode is wrapped up in the harnesses close to the ECM, under the shelter, but you can check it’s continuity by pulling the position light relay out of its socket under the seat and getting to one of the wires. One of the other two wires is at the green connector and the third one is at the flasher relay. Refer to my earlier schematics

 

[kevinm]

will do, thanks again. Where is the ecm. The pics seem to show the diode on the right side behind the rad. Could they have relocated it? As always thanx Bud.

 

[kevinm]

Cancel unit was not plugged in, thanks for checking on me we both know I need it.

 

[Techdude2000]

Cancel unit was not plugged in, thanks for checking on me we both know I need it.

Did you do the continuity test on the diode by using the three wires? My service manual shows the diode on the left side near the top of the gas tank and the main ECM harness. If it checks good with the three wires, then you won’t have to find it on the bike.

 

[kevinm]

Did the gnd the blu blk wire 2 more times and blew 2 more fuses. I am confused get it fused.

 

[kevinm]

the center or common wire would be the blue black wire, yes? then reverse polarity between it and the blue green and blue white. Is that correct?

 

[Techdude2000]

the center or common wire would be the blue black wire, yes? then reverse polarity between it and the blue green and blue white. Is that correct?

Yes, the blue/black wire is the cathode of both diodes and the other two wires are the anodes. You should read a good diode reading (400-900 ohms) with forward polarity on both wires and then almost infinite resistance with the meter reversed. The actual measurement may vary depending on the meter’s internal resistance. I’ve never heard of this diode shorting, not even sure it would blow the fuse if it was. Let me know how it measures.