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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
I will check that right now, as always I'M not worthy. Kev. Oh by the way I am reading a short on the accy relay to ground. Well what happens is the #25 20 amp fuse blows when I turn on the Hazard lights. Blows instantly.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Oh great one, Rob you were right my wiring at the flasher was wrong fixed it and now when I ground the blue green wire at the flasher bazing !! turn signals. They do not cancel but they do function. What do you think o purveyor of circuits.
 

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Oh great one, Rob you were right my wiring at the flasher was wrong fixed it and now when I ground the blue green wire at the flasher bazing !! turn signals. They do not cancel but they do function. What do you think o purveyor of circuits.
Ok, so the flasher works, if you try the hazard button, do they all flash? They won’t automatically cancel because that’s a function of the cancel unit. You need to find the break in the white/green wire between C17 and the green connector at the steering stem. Without power, the cancel unit can’t control the flasher and the turn signals won’t work unit you get the power restored to the cancel unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
When I ground the flasher blue green wire at the flasher and they work does that mean I am missing a ground? Right again, I do not have juice on the white green wire at the steering connection green plug 7p. I was checking the wrong C17 C18 has a white green wire as well. Heading out to check that now.
 

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When I ground the flasher blue green wire at the flasher and they work does that mean I am missing a ground?
If the flasher fails to work with the hazard switch, then there’s an issue with that switch or its wiring. When you push the switch in, it grounds the blue/green wire and it connects the gray wire from the flasher to a dual diode which splits the pulsing power to both sides of the lighting system. I wouldn’t worry about the hazard system right now. We know the flasher is good and it’s wired correctly, so let’s concentrate on the missing power at the cancel unit’s green connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Sorry when I said flasher I meant turn signal flasher when I put a jumper from the blue flasher wire to ground the turn signals operate normally except they do not cancel. I see what you mean about the horn it is very close to the 7p green connector. there is no juice at the green 7p connector white green wire but the horn blows. The harness seems to head for the left handle bar switch area but I do not see that on the drawing Again thank you ,you are teaching me a lot and I appreciate it. I love to learn
 

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Sorry when I said flasher I meant turn signal flasher when I put a jumper from the blue flasher wire to ground the turn signals operate normally except they do not cancel. I see what you mean about the horn it is very close to the 7p green connector. there is no juice at the green 7p connector white green wire but the horn blows. The harness seems to head for the left handle bar switch area but I do not see that on the drawing Again thank you ,you are teaching me a lot and I appreciate it. I love to learn
This bike only has one flasher, it’s the turn signal flasher and the hazard light flasher. The white/green wire runs from the horn/turn relay up to C17 in the white frame and then to the green connector. Since the horn works, this means the power is making it through C17 but is getting lost before it gets to the green connector. I believe this is a break in the wire between these two connectors. There is a splice in this section of wire where the horn button switch gets its power for the horn. Since the horn works, this means the wire continuing to the green connector is either broken after the splice or the splice is the issue. You will have to carefully unwrap the little harness from the green connector back to C17 to find the splice and the possible break in the white/green wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
Here is the latest Rob, hazards are working normally. when i jumper the blue wire at the turn signal flasher to ground the signals function normally except no cancel I do not have voltage on the white green at the splice but am chasing it down.
 

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New twist Rob at the 7P green connector at the steering stem there are 2 white green wires one has pink hash marks every 2 inches or so. The other pure white green wire has no juice but definitely is going toward the handlebar area. I have opened up the wire jacket I found the splice it is good and has juice. something is taking the horn voltage up there because it blows but it does not come back down the green white wire that goes to the 7P.
Yes, one of the wires is green/white, the other is white/green. The first color is the dominant color and the second is the smaller stripe. Honda should not use similar wiring colors in the same harness, especially when it’s so small. Make sure and double check the correct color by comparing it to the splice that you located. Since you opened up the harness, install your temporary jumper from the splice to the green connector and see if the cancel unit will turn on the flasher. The splice should have three wires attached, all the same color, one going to the handlebars for the horn switch, one going back to C17 in the white frame, and the third one should run to the green connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I am losing the battle I even put voltage on the wire at 7P made sure the connector was hot and nothing. I read continuity on the white green wire from the relay under the seat to the splice but no voltage. Nothing is making sense. I see what you mean about green white. Why do you think when I ground the blue wire at the flasher the signals work? maybe I should ground the blue wire and then inject 12 volts at the splice and see what happens. How is the horn working when there is no voltage at the splice?
 

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Discussion Starter #33
The splice definitely has NO juice but does have continuity, weird. I guess the fact that the flashers are working correctly means the flasher is good and wired correctly, yes?
 

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I am losing the battle I even put voltage on the wire at 7P made sure the connector was hot and nothing. I read continuity on the white green wire from the relay under the seat to the splice but no voltage. Nothing is making sense. I see what you mean about green white. Why do you think when I ground the blue wire at the flasher the signals work? maybe I should ground the blue wire and then inject 12 volts at the splice and see what happens. How is the horn working when there is no voltage at the splice?
It wouldn’t, unless you have the wrong splice/wire. Also, if the continuity from the horn/turn relay to the splice is good, then there’s something wrong with your voltage measurement or your meter. We know the horn works, so that means the relay is good and the power is making it all the way to the splice and on up to the horn button switch. If you provide power to the white/green wire at the green connector, the cancel unit will turn on the flasher if the you ground the pink wire at the green connector. This is the same wire that gets grounded when you push the turn signal switch left or right.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Disregard my last transmission Captain. I was way too tired to think clearly. Working this morning to go over my steps. Thanks Rob. Kevin.
 

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Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
Hey Rob once again you were right I chased the green white wire by mistake. Some how I blew the # 30 horn turn fuse long story short ALL TESTS PASS. One test is ground the blue wire at the flasher do the signals flash? Yes they do but it doesn't say what to do after that. It just goes on to the next test. The signals wont flash without the ground and they don't cancel period. Sorry about the other night, I found out after testing for an hour I had a bad jumper. It was working but quit. Now I test them first. Does it sound like a bad cancel unit? All the cancel tests pass now. tanks o Yoda. I mean Rob. Awesome troubleshooting by the way, I mean that. and doing it remotely ? Bro,
 

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Hey Rob once again you were right I chased the green white wire by mistake. Some how I blew the # 30 horn turn fuse long story short ALL TESTS PASS. One test is ground the blue wire at the flasher do the signals flash? Yes they do but it doesn't say what to do after that. It just goes on to the next test. The signals wont flash without the ground and they don't cancel period. Sorry about the other night, I found out after testing for an hour I had a bad jumper. It was working but quit. Now I test them first. Does it sound like a bad cancel unit? All the cancel tests pass now. tanks o Yoda. I mean Rob. Awesome troubleshooting by the way, I mean that. and doing it remotely ? Bro,
Ok, if you are sure the cancel unit is getting power, then we need to check to see if the pink wire at the green connector is getting grounded when you push the turn signal switch left or right. Hook your ohm meter to that wire and ground then push the switch left or right. Don’t need the key turned on. When you push the switch left or right you should see a short/continuity to ground on that wire momentarily. If you get continuity, then we need to switch to voltmeter mode and check the blue/black wire for power when you turn on the key and push the switch left or right. You should see some voltage on it, then it should go to nearly zero volts when the switch is pushed left or right. Let me know what you see.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Here’s a few schematics to complicate things:




Ok, if you are sure the cancel unit is getting power, then we need to check to see if the pink wire at the green connector is getting grounded when you push the turn signal switch left or right. Hook your ohm meter to that wire and ground then push the switch left or right. Don’t need the key turned on. When you push the switch left or right you should see a short/continuity to ground on that wire momentarily. If you get continuity, then we need to switch to voltmeter mode and check the blue/black wire for power when you turn on the key and push the switch left or right. You should see some voltage on it, then it should go to nearly zero volts when the switch is pushed left or right. Let me know what you see.
Hey Rob I did the test on the blue black wire it said no volts left no volts right. Push 12 volts. I had voltage as soon as I turned on the key never lost voltage if I pushed left or right or pushed inconstant voltage at all times. I also did a cont test and had cont from the connector to the 7p blue black. The other signal switch tests all passed cont on green to gnd always,pink to gnd when pushed left or right,and one other lt grn/wht when you pushed the switch in.
 

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Hey Rob I did the test on the blue black wire it said no volts left no volts right. Push 12 volts. I had voltage as soon as I turned on the key never lost voltage if I pushed left or right or pushed inconstant voltage at all times. I also did a cont test and had cont from the connector to the 7p blue black. The other signal switch tests all passed cont on green to gnd always,pink to gnd when pushed left or right,and one other lt grn/wht when you pushed the switch in.
Ok, if you had the green connector plugged in and no fuses are blown and your meter probes were making good contact everywhere, it sounds like the cancel unit is dead. This is an expensive part, so if you feel hesitant about buying it, go through the test once again, making sure you have good contact with your meter probes and your wires being tested. Double check it all. If everything still measures the same, the cancel unit is this number #35220-MCA-003 $152 @ Mrcycles.com is the lowest price I can find.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Rob , can't thank you enough. I ordered the part last night. Haven't redone all of the checks but I will. can I test the fix by plugging the cancel unit in or must I mount it? It is not over between you and me as I am in debt to you.I will post the results. Thank you for putting up with my marginal trbl shoot skill. Your last text was so spot on about how I had to be doing something wrong. Check those fuses and your test equip multiple times. My best advice,see you soon. Kevin
 
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