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Discussion Starter #1
I have traced the problem to no juice at the white/green wire at the steering stem. Can the turn signal cancelling unit cause the turn signals not to function at all?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Year and model would help with an answer.
Sorry 2006 with nav and audio no abs. I have 12 volts leaving the horn/ turn relay on the white/green wire but not making it to the green connector in the steering neck /triple tree. I was wondering if the cancel unit could be the cause.
 

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Sorry 2006 with nav and audio no abs. I have 12 volts leaving the horn/ turn relay on the white/green wire but not making it to the green connector in the steering neck /triple tree. I was wondering if the cancel unit could be the cause.
Yes, the cancel unit sends a ground to the flasher to turn it on. If the cancel unit isn’t getting the power to function, then it will not send the ground to turn on the signals. The hazards will still work because the hazard button directly controls the flasher unit for that mode. The white/green wire brings the power to the cancel unit and passes through a connector in the white frame on the right side of the bike, under the right side fairing pocket. This is an area that can get corrosion in those non water proof connectors. It passes through C17 in this picture. If the power is lost at C17, your horn will be dead as well. If the horn works, then C17 is OK and the problem is a splice between C17 and the little green connector at the stem.

 

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Discussion Starter #6
I can't thank you enough Rob I have power at the horn/turn relay. the horn works. I will try the hazards and report back. I tied the two flasher pins together with a jumper and the turn signals did light , not flash but light. I caused my own problem by switching to led's and messed up the resistor part. I am not getting 12 volts to the white green wire for sure. Is that connector you showed me the first stop for that wire? I am off today and will be working on the bike. I expect a bill from you when I get this thing working. Thank you Rob, I won't forget this.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Rob,The stock flasher is weird I bought a conversion kit to use a conventional type flasher. Is that Okay? The juice should be on the handlebar side of the green 7 pin plug, yes? Does the flasher need to be in place for any of the wire tracing?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hey Rob with a jumper across the positive and negative terminals of the flasher the hazards lit not flashed. with the jumper removed the flasher 20 amp fuse blew. My main question is though I have power at the top of the of the c17 white green wire connector. Does the top of the connector go to the green 7 pin connector? Does the turn signal cancel module have to be plugged in to test for voltage? I have no voltage with the module unplugged to the green 7 pin connector white green wire.
 

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Rob,The stock flasher is weird I bought a conversion kit to use a conventional type flasher. Is that Okay? The juice should be on the handlebar side of the green 7 pin plug, yes? Does the flasher need to be in place for any of the wire tracing?
No, the flasher really has nothing to do with this power that’s missing at the green connector. The LEDs won’t keep it from flashing, they will only flash too fast. I would stick with the OEM flasher or purchase Electrical Connections LED flasher. It just plugs into the harness like the OEM and will work with LEDs or incandescent lights as well. The power comes from the horn/turn relay, runs through C17 and then splits to the horn button and to the green stem connector. Be careful experimenting with these circuits, it’s really easy to blow up the cancel unit which cost way more than it’s worth.
 

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Hey Rob with a jumper across the positive and negative terminals of the flasher the hazards lit not flashed. with the jumper removed the flasher 20 amp fuse blew. My main question is though I have power at the top of the of the c17 white green wire connector. Does the top of the connector go to the green 7 pin connector? Does the turn signal cancel module have to be plugged in to test for voltage? I have no voltage with the module unplugged to the green 7 pin connector white green wire.
I’m not sure of whether top or bottom of C17 is the side that runs to the green connector, it’s been awhile since I’ve been digging around in this circuit. since your horn works, C17 is fine. The white/green wire must have a break between C17 and the green connector. If you install a temporary jumper wire on the white/green wire at C17 and run it to the green connector, the cancel unit should work. Does the flasher unit work when you push the hazard button? If not, the flasher has an issue separate from this power issue. The OEM flasher has power on one of its legs(input) all the time and one of the legs(output) runs to the turn signal switch, the third leg is the(control) trigger/ground that comes from the cancel unit. This is how the cancel unit turns it on and off by controlling the ground for it. The cancel unit is a solid state device that is easily damaged, so don’t short power or ground to the wrong pins or it will die. When you engage the hazard button, the switch is a dual switch that does two things, it grounds the same control leg of the flasher relay to activate it and it connects the flashing power coming out of it to the hazard diode, which splits the flashing power to both sides of the signal system to flash all of the lights.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sorry to be a pest does the cancel unit need to be connected for the jumper test? Thanks again Rob, I will find a way to pay you back.
 

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Sorry to be a pest does the cancel unit need to be connected for the jumper test? Thanks again Rob, I will find a way to pay you back.
Sorry I disappeared, yes, once you get the jumper in place plug up the cancel unit. Be careful, the pins are easily bent and pushed out of the back of that little connector. Do the hazards work? If so, try the turn signals and see if the jumper has fixed the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hey Rob, thanks for all of your help I am not making much headway unfortunately I am too embarrassed to ask more questions. I would like to send you a gift card or something for your help Thanks again Kevin. I don't know how to contact you personally. If you know how let me know and I can get your info
 

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Hey Rob, thanks for all of your help I am not making much headway unfortunately I am too embarrassed to ask more questions. I would like to send you a gift card or something for your help Thanks again Kevin. I don't know how to contact you personally. If you know how let me know and I can get your info
Ask all you want! No reason to be embarrassed about anything. No need for gifts, just pay it forward. Did the jumper get the cancel unit going? Where are you located?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks Rob that is very kind of you I live in Maryland near Wash Dc. I hooked everything up installed a flasher and when I turn on the signals i get a very fast buzzing from the flasher. Can the signals function with a bad cancel unit? The jumper did not seem to help but I am going to use a bed of nails set of Aligator clips today and try it again to make sure It is making contact. Where are you by the way. Was thinking the diode could cause buzzing? It is a bear to get to if you have to remove the radiator.
 

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Thanks Rob that is very kind of you I live in Maryland near Wash Dc. I hooked everything up installed a flasher and when I turn on the signals i get a very fast buzzing from the flasher. Can the signals function with a bad cancel unit? The jumper did not seem to help but I am going to use a bed of nails set of Aligator clips today and try it again to make sure It is making contact. Where are you by the way. Was thinking the diode could cause buzzing? It is a bear to get to if you have to remove the radiator.
I’m in Lexington, Ky. Did you change the flasher unit or is this the factory unit? I would keep the factory unit on it until you get the missing power back to the cancel unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I may just buy a new one from Honda. It is an aftermarket from Napa.
I am just not sure The old one is good
must the cancel unit be there to flash the signals? Must it be functioning?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hey Rob, news flash (get it ?) I am at the point when I hook up the flasher turn on the turn signals I get a normal flash noise at the flasher and I can see voltage leaving the flasher blue black wire with a test light. The turn signals do not light. Would this indicate an open on the blue black wire somewhere? Pushing the cancel button does nothing I have to move it to the center position of the switch, Thanks as always, Kevin. My wife's cousin works at UK.
 

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I may just buy a new one from Honda. It is an aftermarket from Napa.
I am just not sure The old one is good
must the cancel unit be there to flash the signals? Must it be functioning?
Yes, the cancel unit controls the flasher when using the turn signals. Without it, the flasher would be off. The hazard lights will flash without the cancel unit. The hazard switch directly controls the flasher when you turn it on.
 

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Hey Rob, news flash (get it ?) I am at the point when I hook up the flasher turn on the turn signals I get a normal flash noise at the flasher and I can see voltage leaving the flasher blue black wire with a test light. The turn signals do not light. Would this indicate an open on the blue black wire somewhere? Pushing the cancel button does nothing I have to move it to the center position of the switch, Thanks as always, Kevin. My wife's cousin works at UK.
When you activate the cancel unit by pushing the turn signal switch left or right, the switch sends a ground to the cancel unit, which turns on and sends a ground to the flasher unit, turning it on. The output of the flasher runs back to the turn signal switch and a set of contacts connects the pulsing power to the selected lights, left or right. If you turn on the hazard switch, do all of the lights flash? Can you hear the flasher unit with the hazard switch pushed in? Your wire colors don’t sound right. Normally, there’s power on the light green/black wire, trigger/ground on the blue/green wire, and the pulsing power comes out of the gray wire on the flasher unit.
 
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