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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm trying to remove my trunk lights, but it looks as if the previous owner snapped the screw inside the light housing. All that is happening, is the nut is not coming off, but just spinning the whole threaded part that goes into the housing.

Without breaking the whole housing, anyone have any ideas?

I already tried to pry on the housing to put some added pressure on the threaded part, hoping that would let the nut come off.

I really do not need to remove the lights yet, but what I'm doing is adding the Break Light Back Off Wig Wag and I want it to only operate the top set of lights, and figured by removing the top to break lights, I could splice into the wires there. Would anyone know which two wires under the seat operate JUST the trunk set of break lights?

I looked on line, but every installation guide I've found, show the Back Off system working on all four break lights.

ANY help would be very much appreciated!
 

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Sorry my scanner isn't working so I took some pics of the schematics. Mine is a 07 model, should be the same...Sorry I got a little shaky on the last shot. Hope this helps.
 

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Real Nice, DreamWeaver!
 

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Most likely the nut was driven on by a high speed driver at the factory. This "welded" the nut to the mounting stud and may have stripped the stud at that time! Or the break-away torque, caused by the high speed "slam" torque of the nut, exceeded the strip torque of the metal stud driven into the plastic lamp housing, when someone tried to unscrew the nut.
About the only way to get it out is to have an assistant apply rearward "pull" on the lamp asm. as you "slowly" turn the nut. If more than one nut is spinning, you will have to rotate each one a little at a time while appling the rearward "pull".
Be patient, this takes time!
This may back the stud out of the lamp asm. allowing removal of it.
Be careful how this rearward pull is applied. The lens is plastic and the edge will crack/break easily!
If you are successful, you can use something like JB Weld to resecure the stud into the lamp housing!
Good luck.

PS:
Are you anywhere close to Indianapolis, In? Since there's no info in your profile, don't know if your close enough for me to help you or not??????????????????????????
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sorry my scanner isn't working so I took some pics of the schematics. Mine is a 07 model, should be the same...Sorry I got a little shaky on the last shot. Hope this helps.
THANKS

What manual do you have? I have the Clymer manual, which Im not too happy with. It does nto even show you how to replace a light bulb!:eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
PS:
Are you anywhere close to Indianapolis, In? Since there's no info in your profile, don't know if your close enough for me to help you or not??????????????????????????
I have since added that info to my profile, however, I will be in your area for the night on the 9th of Aug - Beer?
 

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I'm trying to remove my trunk lights, but it looks as if the previous owner snapped the screw inside the light housing. All that is happening, is the nut is not coming off, but just spinning the whole threaded part that goes into the housing.

Without breaking the whole housing, anyone have any ideas?

I already tried to pry on the housing to put some added pressure on the threaded part, hoping that would let the nut come off.

I really do not need to remove the lights yet, but what I'm doing is adding the Break Light Back Off Wig Wag and I want it to only operate the top set of lights, and figured by removing the top to break lights, I could splice into the wires there. Would anyone know which two wires under the seat operate JUST the trunk set of break lights?

I looked on line, but every installation guide I've found, show the Back Off system working on all four break lights.

ANY help would be very much appreciated!
any possibilty of holding the end of a stud by drilling a small hole into the center of the stud and tapping a torx bit into the hole I use torx bits as they are better than easy outs and normally work better.after you get the torx bit set properly soak the nut and stud down with PB Blaster or lube of your choice then let it sit. if this doesnt work get a much larger hammer.:eek:
 

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THANKS

What manual do you have? I have the Clymer manual, which Im not too happy with. It does nto even show you how to replace a light bulb!:eek:
It is the GL1800/A Service Manual and ETM by Honda.
 

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I had the infamous stripped acorn nut issue. The dealership replaced my entire trunk mid-section under warranty. Don't quote me, but , I believe there is a way to replace the bulbs without removing the assembly. The mechanic made reference to it when I asked him if the striped nut issue was a potential every time I replaced a bulb. I'll see him tomorrow and inquire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I had the infamous stripped acorn nut issue. The dealership replaced my entire trunk mid-section under warranty. Don't quote me, but , I believe there is a way to replace the bulbs without removing the assembly. The mechanic made reference to it when I asked him if the striped nut issue was a potential every time I replaced a bulb. I'll see him tomorrow and inquire.
THANKS I'd appreciate that!
 

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Stopped by the Dealership today to pick up a part wrongly ordered twice. The Mech said that the rear light housing must be removed to change the bulbs. It's been over a year since I had the conversation, so he miss-spoke or I heard him wrong . Thank you Mother Honda.
 

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