there is nothing in my shop manual or owners manual telling when to replace belts but a friend i trust changes his every 80,000 miles or eight years. he said he would not go past 100,000 miles on belts. my belts on both wings are going to be changed soon
I have had my 82 GL 1100 for 4 years now, still just 39,000 on the clock. I read in another thread that if the belt goes it can take the engine out. I have no real idea how old the belts are. They could be original? I bought it from the 2nd owner.
What is my best course of action here? Change em' on GP?
well they told you right buzzltyr. if a timing belt goes the valves will contact the piston. mine are being changed as a precaution. the guy i got my 1200 from said he didn't know if the belts had been changed and the guy i got my 1500 from only got it himself because he knew he could resale it and make some money so he doesn't know anything about the bike so belts will be changed
Are you going to do the job yourself? Any idea of shop costs? I also read that while a technician is in there he might as well flush and clean the radiator (needs a special mityvac tool or something) and then there are some other rubber seals or something that should be changed on gp at that time. I'm still learning about this...
another friend who has a small shop is going to help and show me how to change the belts. i will flush the radiator, change the thermostat and hoses at the same time. i've been told to add the coolant slowly to keep from creating air pockets in the engine but no special vac tool. pm sent to you
The GW motor is an interference motor. So the valves will hit if the belt breaks or slips. I would not call that it would "take out the motor." If that were to happen, you would have to pull the head/s and replace the damaged valves. Chances that a piston would need to be replaced are pretty slim. I have seen MANY piston to valve "arguements" and the piston always wins! The only time I have seen pistons needing replacement is when a valve head breaks off and sticks sideways into the piston. Even if you get a good "ding" in the piston, you can debur the edges and leave it alone most times.
Hey detdrbuzzard, I am in Royal Oak. Maybe we can meet up some time?
Do a search with google... you should find them,, if not they are on many boards as this is a very commen thread.... the bottom line is if you don't know when the belts were last changed then by all means change them ASAP.
hi guys. just from my experience in 34 years of GW work, gl1000s,gl1100s, an gl1200s have broken timing belts in as little as 47,000 miles. we've only had two gl1500s with broken belts and both were around 100,000 miles.
Ok , now I'm confused .I am working on my 77 gl 1000 now .
The head gasket blew on the right side. All torn down , and things look good . Valves OK , cylindr looks good . I only have 39,000 miles on this bike . Timing belts look perfect . No missing /worn teeth , no checks on the outer rubber . So do I replace them anyway ?
Dennis Kirk gets $49 each . What is the part # for the $14.95 NAPA belt .
I don't think it makes sense to pull the other head and replace the head gasket just for the fun of it .
I just did my belts yesterday. My bike, GL1200 Interstate, had 122,000 miles on it. I bought it from my Brother-in-law, who bought it new. At 22.000 miles, he had a cam seal leak, which put oil on the belts. Honda replaced the seal and belts under warranty. I have read on different forums, and some people say every 50,000 miles, Honda says every 75,000 in their manual. I figured I'd better do it with 100,000 on these belts. After they were removed, they still looked fine, but either they had stretched, or the tensioners had loosened up. They had excessive deflection in them.
The hardest time I had was finding the "T1 Mark". I was looking all over the front of the engine under the timing belt covers. The Honda Manual doesn't specify where it is. Then someone on one of the forums told me it was on the top of the engine, left side. 1/2 hour later the engine was purring like a kitten.
Since you have to drain your anti-freeze, it would be a good time to change it out, and also flush out your expansion tank. Very easy to do.
One thing I noticed was that the left cam, (when sitting on the bike), lines up perfectly, (the up mark and index mark). But the right cam needs to be set about 1 tooth CCW of perfect alignment initially. After your tensioners are adjusted and you swing your crank right and left the 30-40 degrees stated in the manual, it lines up perfectly. It took me 2 tried to figure this out.
Oh, I bought my belts on eBay, for $21.00, delivered. They were Gates belts too.
Thanks for the reply . I have 56,000 miles , so I have 2 new Gates belts ($17.75 ea ) that will go on before the bike hits the road .
I am fixing a blown head gasket on the right side , and I guess I might as well pull the left head as well , just to check the valves , and remove the carbon . What is the trick to removing all the gasket ?
fine scraping , razor blades even paint remover , and I still have some residue . I am hesitant to using emery cloth or any rotary brush or scotchbrite wheels .
Carb rebuilds come next , but I want to get it running first .
I'm planning to change my belts also, I have 93K on my 87 Aspencade.
I'm restoring this bike that I bought Jul 10 09.
The previous owner rode it to my place about 125 Km. mostly hyway So, it runs just fine,but I'm nervous about the belts.
It looks like the rad needs to come out? Also, if I don't move the cams in any way...can I just replace the belts the same way they come out?
Or will the timing need to be set anyway? Thanks for any help...
Actually , the Nakedgoldwing forum has discussed this at length .
I am only familiar with the GL1000 , but in that case , you can get at the timing belt covers without removing the radiator .
Drain the coolant , remove the lower hose flange from the block , remove the 2 lower radiator mount bolts , loosen the 2 top mount bolts . Now you can get at the bolts that hold the covers on .
( 2 bolts each ) A 10 mm short socket and 1/4" air rachet really helps .
If you have crash bars , you may have to loosen or remove them , especially on the right side , to get the cover to slide out .
Take plenty of digital photos before you start taking the belts off.
Unless you take off the valve covers ,and back off the valve adjusters , the cam wheel will jump off the marks as soom as you remove the belt .
Follow the procedure in Tech Tips .
The left belt will go on and line up pretty easy. The right belt will never quite line up exactly on the mark . When you get it to look like it's off 1/2 a tooth ABOVE the mark , then you have it all set .
Remember , this is only true on my 77 GL1000.
your experience may be different .
Got my bike for Fathers day from the wife...Bought it from a elderly gentleman...he clamed at 98k the belts were changed...at the dealer..... he clamed he brought it there and told them to servise it and check it out becaus he was going to sell it ....tune up,lof,new altonater, back brakes,and timing belts......well today she has 105k and I changed the oil,plugs,timing belts and added a triger wheel and there is no way the belts and plugs were done at 98k.......new bike do them it is the best insurance you could get....