[L2R]

just came back from a ride and parked in the driveway.
came back and started it up to pull into the garage. There was a loud strange noise along with the engine noise.

I hit the kill switch no change. It sounded like the starter was engaged.

Tapped the starter, no change.

Turned off the key, no change.

Put down the kickstand (in gear) no change.

Decided to get off it and pull the ground off the battery. It lurched forward. Yes forward.

got it in nuetral, hoped off and ran for the toolbox.

I got the cover off and just started on the bolt when it all went silent.

I would guess the noise (and I am still guessing here) lasted almost a full minute.

Any suggestions where to start?

 

[fxrshog]

Could be the starter relay!!

 

[L2R]

It's worth a check, I mean, I don't know what was going on.

I decided to scrap all my other stuff and put the wing on the lift and just not ride it until I feel like the bike it totally right. But to do that, I had to get it up a steep incline. Curiosity got the best of me and it started fine and shut down as normal.
Other suggestions welcome. I hate 'intermittant' problems but I gotta get to the bottom of this. I gotta believe that was good on the starter.

 

[trike lady]

I'm going to say the 'A' relay closed engaging the starter (the loud noise) to the running engine and just wouldn't disengage until the battery was disconnected. I'd look at the relays in the starting circuit and check wiring very carefully.

 

[Ron Robertson]

Trike Lady I think you nail this one. A friend had that happen on his 1500 while we were on a ride. Solenoid A stuck which kept power to the starter. He did know this at the time and tried the kill switch ignition switch nothing would stop the engine from turning over. So he tried to stall it in low gear with the from brake applied. The front end started to skid, then it skipped and came up about 3 inches, then began to bounce higher with each skip it he lost control and the bike went over on it's side.

 

[Ron Robertson]

Love2ride. As I said above my bet is on Solenoid A. locate forward of the battery under the front side panel. Once this starts it isn't likely that it will quit for good. It will be intermittent and could be a safety issue for you.
From the Northwest Corner
Ron

 

[L2R]

Thanks gang,
Don't know how far I would have gotten without good advice.
(You will notice I don't offer advise here on electrical issues)
Time to go bond with the old girl.

 

[L2R]

Ok,

Had a chance to take deep breathes and look this over.
Can't find problem with wires or 'A' relay. Continuity checked out ok.

Did remember in last 2 weeks that I had a short in the throttle brake lever. I took all four wires off, cleaned and re-seated. Brake light fixed and bike inspected. But it has rained alot this past 2 weeks so this might be the smoking gun as I haven't ridden it much since then.

My thinking is to buy/install 'A' relay to be on safe side, only $30.
Replace wires from connector under throddle to wherever they go.

Is this practical? I am open to other suggestions.

 

[trike lady]

I'd go with replacing the 'A' Relay. The 'A' relay is probably original.
You may want to check the 9P-Red connector at the right side cooling fan, touch the Blk/Lt grn and the Blk/Wht in the run position there should be continuity and no continuity in the off position.

 

[L2R]

A relay is on order and bike sits until then.
thanks again.

you are inVALuable.

 

[L2R]

I looked a B relay too and it looked good.

I a little about a little so when it comes to electrical issues I defer to someone else.
You sound like you know your stuff too so you are ahead of me.

I have been out twice now on short runs close to home.


A broken relay 50 bucks
Pulling a battery while you can hear bikes going by in the distance, sux
Friends on GWOF to help in time of need,...............PRICELESS.

Thanks all, I can't say it 's totally resolved but so far so good.

Thanks again.

 

[budoka]

Looking good so far L2R.Fingers crossed from my end, freaking hate electrical probs.

 

[Ron Robertson]

To answer this part of the above comment. The positive side of the battery is tied directly to one side of the contacts on Solenoid A. IF the contacts on Solenoid A stick, It will pass the battery positive voltage on to Solenoid B's contacts ,and also to the relay coils of Solenoid B energizing the coils , closing the contacts passing it onto the starter.
So if the contacts on Solenoid are are stuck, turning the ignition switch off won't help neither using the kill switch. The only way to disengage the starter at this point is to remove the plus voltage from the circuit. The easiest way to do this is to disconnect battery, either the ground of plus side. Either will interrupt current flow. Usually the contacts will release.
However once they start sticking it's more then likely will continue to be a problem.
Hope this helps.
From the Northwest Corner
Ron

 

[trike lady]

Nothing like 'Residual Magnetism' to start the bike, like mentioned above it holds the A closed and sends it to B and the starter turns.

 

[Ron Robertson]

If your start button is sticking before you start taking things apart. Flush it out really well with some Radio Shack contact cleaner. Spray it in around the button and try working the switch spay some more while trying to work the button. Unless it's broke inside it should free up. Use plenty of the contact cleaner.
From the Northwest Corner.
Ron

 

[TOP]

Although mine is an 1800 I spray clean both sides with contact cleaner every 6 months. Never had the type of trouble with the starter on my 97 but had some of the 30 amp relays go bad. Kept a 1/2 dozen in the bike all the time. Sometimes you can pick up that relay panel with relays in it on ebay for 100.00 bucks considering those things run about 34.00-37.00 each its cheap enough. You got lots a good advice it probably solved your problem