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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All!
I replaced my battery in April before I went on a road trip. It did fine all summer until a few weeks ago. All of a sudden it wouldn't crank any more. Up until this event, all it took was a tap on the start button and it would start fine. I also replaced the starter a few years back. A few weeks ago, it started to act like the battery was going bad. Real slow, laborful cranking, but it would still start. I replaced the battery again and for a few days, it did okay. I thought I was in the clear, but last week, it wouldn't crank again. I might have gotten a bad battery, but I sort of doubt it. I havent had a chance to load test the battery to see if it is good. I guess what I'm needing to know, how can I test the output of the stator. I have a good volt meter and understand enough about the electronics to do this myself. Does anyone have any input?
Thanks in advance!
Eric
 

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What model is your Wing? the 1200's had the most stator issues. Somewhere on here there is a post or two to check for a bad stator. I'll link it if I can find it. I'm a very poor electronics type so:rolleyes:
 

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You can make three test on the stator; resistance, voltage and IB (Insulation Breakdown).
There are 3 yellow wires from the stator and you test them in the following way:
AC1 to AC2, AC1 to AC3 and AC2 to AC3. You can use this to check stator resistance and voltage. Then an AC lead to ground for IB. You can run a cold stator check and then a hot stator check for an open winding.
The reg/rec the three yellow leads to the red BCL and the green ground. You can also and reverse bias test on the reg/rec, as it should have a one way flow through the diodes. Red lead on AC leads individual to the BCL and then the green with the black meter lead and then reverse the leads. This will show you if it is working correctly.
 

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this info needs to be made into a sticky for other 1000, 1100, and 1200 wing owners
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Trike Lady.
Sorry that I wasn't clear on my model year. It's a 1985 interstate, 1200 I. Next time I can get to the storage unit that where I park it, I'll do the test that you mentioned. I hope that I'm wrong because I don't have the $$ to have this replaced and we still have several weeks of good riding weather here in KY.
I was reading in an online manual that the engine has to come out to replace this. Looking at the bike, I do believe this is correct.
 

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If the stator is bad you may want to use an external alternator (Poorboy Conversion).
It's a big job to get the engine out to replace the stator.
 

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this info needs to be made into a sticky for other 1000, 1100, and 1200 wing owners
Great idea detdrbuzzard! I think I know a resident guru for the post!:D
 

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Now where would you get that idea?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Here's the latest on the stator.
I put the battery on a 2 amp charge for a few days to bring it back to full. Today as I was putting it back in, as I reconnected the (-) terminal, there was a small spark as if there was a load on somewhere. I didn't have anything turned on at the time. I did the ole, "pull the battery out of the circuit" test real quick after I got the bike running, and it continued to run. I know from past experience that this isn't always a tell all sign in autos that the alt. is bad, but as as bike continued to run, the 3 wires coming out of the stator got a kind of warm. I didn't have anything turned on as the bike was running other than the normal systems that would be on anyway.
A few years ago, I had to replace the stator wires at the mulitpin connector and today I noticed that the spade connectors were looking brown, as if they were overheated. I left the battery out of the circuit and as soon as I can, I'll get back to it and inspect the wiring.
I looked into the poorboy conversion, but really don't want to make the permanant modifications to this motorcycle. It is in extreamly good shape for a 26 year old bike and if there is anyway to keep it all original I would rather do that. I have a real good mechanic that I trust to do anything I need, so if the enging has to come out, I'll just eat Ramen Noodles for the next 2 years!
I'm also looking at having to do major transmission work to my van right now, so it might be 3 years that I enjoy Ramen!
 

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If you do decide to go with the actual stator replacement to keep the 'original' state of the bike, you can 'hard wire' the stator by soldering and insulating the leads when you do the replacement. It's what should have been done with all the replacements back when anyway. We all learned that after much trial and tribulation and some of us multiple replacements (I did 3) and $$ and roadside grief.
 

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It's electrifying and its coming soon.

How to check older GL stators and reg/recs.
 

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Did you get it fixed Eric? Yootube is your friend, there are videos that can help. This one shows the quick way to test stator output:


This one shows how to take the engine out to replace the stator, if you really want to give yourself all that work :) :


Finally this one shows the stator being removed and replaced with a new one, after the engine has been removed:

 

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Being the Simple Dimple I am, my first quetion is: How are the stator wire connections near the battery? All good and tight, soldered and shrink tubed? My bike is running pretty well, but I'm re-doing the three stator wires before heading to Sturgis in August. They were "fixed" about 5-6 years ago but not super well, and like the main fuse at the battery, they'll stop you cold.:(:mad:
 

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I'm starting to think that Trike Lady is the great-granddaughter of Nicholas Tesla!
 

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Most owners cut out the white connectors and solder the yellow stator wires. The stock white connector is a time-bomb, bound to let you down at some stage.
 
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