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Checking stators on older GL’s
The first part of the system the plastic connector it gets brittle with age, the pins and sockets and they don’t like to stay securely in place, they get corroded or loose and the resistance begins. When this happens the plastic begins to get warm and sometimes it gets hot enough to burn. This is why the wires are soldered and are shrink tubed.

The three yellow wires.
We can check the stator for three things: Voltage AC, resistance Ohms and Insulation Breakdown (IB) Ohms. You can run all three tests or two one must be the IB test, I normally run all three.
Disconnect the stator from the regulator/rectifier and you have the three yellow stator wires: AC1, AC2 & AC3. The stator produces AC current which the rectifier converts to DC so that the bike’s electrical system can use it.

Testing for AC output.
Set the meter to the appropriate range 200VAC
Start the bike and test AC1-AC2, AC1-AC3 and AC2-AC3.
Check the ac output in the service manual for your bike.

Testing for resistance
Run the same test as above except for resistance and set the meter to 200 ohms.
Resistance range 0.2 – 2.5 Ohms

The IB test (Insulation Breakdown)
Any ac from the stator to ground, there should be no continuity.
Set meter to 2M ohms

The other part of the charging system is the regulator/rectifier and it can go bad. Inside the unit are diodes, one way streets for electricity and they sometimes get turned into two way travel for electricity.
No charge, low charge or over charge it can be traced to this component.

To test the reg/rec
You unplug it from the stator and test the three yellow wires to the red BCL (battery charge lead) and the green Ground.
The meter must be set in ‘Diode’ setting to do the test.
Forward Bias:
Red meter lead on AC1, AC2 & AC3. Black lead to BCL.
Red meter lead on Ground. Black lead on AC1, AC2 & AC3
Range .3-.8V
Reverse Bias test
Red meter lead on AC1, AC2 & AC3. Black on Ground
Red meter lead on BCL. Black lead on AC1, AC2 & AC3
Range infinity
 

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we need to start making these " how too's " into stickys
 

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Excellent info for us who have the older models. There is a fix for the 3 yellow wires and that is to hardwire them with solder and cover with shrink tape. Ty for the post. There is alot of info at Goldwingdocs.com and gl1200goldwings.com
 
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Excellent info for us who have the older models. There is a fix for the 3 yellow wires and that is to hardwire them with solder and cover with shrink tape. Ty for the post. There is alot of info at Goldwingdocs.com and gl1200goldwings.com
i never hard wired mine ray. what i did was clean the connector, put some dielectric grease on it and seal the back side with gasket maker so no dirt gets into the plug
 

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Stator/wiring

i never hard wired mine ray. what i did was clean the connector, put some dielectric grease on it and seal the back side with gasket maker so no dirt gets into the plug
That is another great idea!!:)
 

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stator connector on older GWs

:)I replace the connector with a three wire trailor connector, soldering and shrink wrap to the original wires plus dielectric grease. thanks for the info for the tests
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You will find the stator behind a cover at the back of the engine.
Just follow the three yellow wires found alongside the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
There is a pulse generator pair at the back of the engine and in order to get to them you must pull the rear wheel and swing arm. The wires are also located alongside the battery and near two small igniter boxes.
 

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My 85 10th anniversary model has lost the charge from one yellow wire. Is there a way to get to the stator without pulling the motor?
Can I install an external alternator that is easier to service?
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)

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... yes you can install an external alternator, it's the poor boy conversion. This is the person to contact about the unit: Donald (Poorboy)Pigott [email protected]
These are the instructions on how to install it: http://bobsold.goldwingfacts.com/Alternator/alternator.htm
Thanks for all the info Trike Lady. I have an 84 and the stator business makes me nervous just because I hope someday (soon) to take this ride across the country and don't want to find out in the middle on Montana that I'm stuck - without my garage. I can ensure that my current stator is running correctly and most likely will but my question is: "If I choose to install an external alternator, do I simply disconnect the stator and leave it in the bike?"
 

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That would be my thoughts. Unplug the three yellow wires from the voltage regulator, and cap them off down by the battery. The GM alternator is stand alone with just the two or three wires. One from the battery through the key, and one big one back to the battery. Your parts supply store can tell you exactly how to install the alternator wiring.
The beauty of doing it this way is that the alternator could now be replace in a matter of a few hours at the side of the road if necessary. I was positive it would work, I just wanted to know if someone else had done it and how to mount it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
tschutter,
Just disconnect all the connections from the old charging system and leave stator in place.
 
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