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Checking stators on older GL’s
The first part of the system the plastic connector it gets brittle with age, the pins and sockets and they don’t like to stay securely in place, they get corroded or loose and the resistance begins. When this happens the plastic begins to get warm and sometimes it gets hot enough to burn. This is why the wires are soldered and are shrink tubed.
The three yellow wires.
We can check the stator for three things: Voltage AC, resistance Ohms and Insulation Breakdown (IB) Ohms. You can run all three tests or two one must be the IB test, I normally run all three.
Disconnect the stator from the regulator/rectifier and you have the three yellow stator wires: AC1, AC2 & AC3. The stator produces AC current which the rectifier converts to DC so that the bike’s electrical system can use it.
Testing for AC output.
Set the meter to the appropriate range 200VAC
Start the bike and test AC1-AC2, AC1-AC3 and AC2-AC3.
Check the ac output in the service manual for your bike.
Testing for resistance
Run the same test as above except for resistance and set the meter to 200 ohms.
Resistance range 0.2 – 2.5 Ohms
The IB test (Insulation Breakdown)
Any ac from the stator to ground, there should be no continuity.
Set meter to 2M ohms
The other part of the charging system is the regulator/rectifier and it can go bad. Inside the unit are diodes, one way streets for electricity and they sometimes get turned into two way travel for electricity.
No charge, low charge or over charge it can be traced to this component.
To test the reg/rec
You unplug it from the stator and test the three yellow wires to the red BCL (battery charge lead) and the green Ground.
The meter must be set in ‘Diode’ setting to do the test.
Forward Bias:
Red meter lead on AC1, AC2 & AC3. Black lead to BCL.
Red meter lead on Ground. Black lead on AC1, AC2 & AC3
Range .3-.8V
Reverse Bias test
Red meter lead on AC1, AC2 & AC3. Black on Ground
Red meter lead on BCL. Black lead on AC1, AC2 & AC3
Range infinity
The first part of the system the plastic connector it gets brittle with age, the pins and sockets and they don’t like to stay securely in place, they get corroded or loose and the resistance begins. When this happens the plastic begins to get warm and sometimes it gets hot enough to burn. This is why the wires are soldered and are shrink tubed.
The three yellow wires.
We can check the stator for three things: Voltage AC, resistance Ohms and Insulation Breakdown (IB) Ohms. You can run all three tests or two one must be the IB test, I normally run all three.
Disconnect the stator from the regulator/rectifier and you have the three yellow stator wires: AC1, AC2 & AC3. The stator produces AC current which the rectifier converts to DC so that the bike’s electrical system can use it.
Testing for AC output.
Set the meter to the appropriate range 200VAC
Start the bike and test AC1-AC2, AC1-AC3 and AC2-AC3.
Check the ac output in the service manual for your bike.
Testing for resistance
Run the same test as above except for resistance and set the meter to 200 ohms.
Resistance range 0.2 – 2.5 Ohms
The IB test (Insulation Breakdown)
Any ac from the stator to ground, there should be no continuity.
Set meter to 2M ohms
The other part of the charging system is the regulator/rectifier and it can go bad. Inside the unit are diodes, one way streets for electricity and they sometimes get turned into two way travel for electricity.
No charge, low charge or over charge it can be traced to this component.
To test the reg/rec
You unplug it from the stator and test the three yellow wires to the red BCL (battery charge lead) and the green Ground.
The meter must be set in ‘Diode’ setting to do the test.
Forward Bias:
Red meter lead on AC1, AC2 & AC3. Black lead to BCL.
Red meter lead on Ground. Black lead on AC1, AC2 & AC3
Range .3-.8V
Reverse Bias test
Red meter lead on AC1, AC2 & AC3. Black on Ground
Red meter lead on BCL. Black lead on AC1, AC2 & AC3
Range infinity
