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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Help! 2008 GW. Battery is fine. Hit start button: click. Pull starts fine. Replaced relay. Electricity to relay when I hit the start button. Click. Crossed terminals with start button. Click. Uggg.
Starter relay is the one on left when viewed, correct? Reverse relay on right? Man, I thought I had this. <sigh>
 

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when you say the battery is "fine"
load tested ?
or just volt meter?
for a battery can show correct volts but not put out any amps to start a flea because of an internal breakdown
 

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Hey Hbampa - With the Battery Disconnected - check to see if the large terminal nuts on the top of the starter relay are tight Then, there is a quick test you might try to bypass your starter relay and test whether your battery can spin over the motor. Place the metal ends of a couple of (inexpensive - junk) flat-tip screwdrivers tightly against the two larger starter relay terminals - then touch the screwdriver shafts together. This test will spark some but if the battery is OK - the starter should come to life and the motor should turn over at it's normal speed.

Good Luck - Michael
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
when you say the battery is "fine"
load tested ?
or just volt meter?
for a battery can show correct volts but not put out any amps to start a flea because of an internal breakdown
Thank you. Showing 12.2 volts. It started the bike with energy a week ok then click. I’ll think through that more, thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey Hbampa - With the Battery Disconnected - check to see if the large terminal nuts on the top of the starter relay are tight Then, there is a quick test you might try to bypass your starter relay and test whether your battery can spin over the motor. Place the metal ends of a couple of (inexpensive - junk) flat-tip screwdrivers tightly against the two larger starter relay terminals - then touch the screwdriver shafts together. This test will spark some but if the battery is OK - the starter should come to life and the motor should turn over at it's normal speed.

Good Luck - Michael
Thank you. Did that and same old click. Nothing. Thinking starter then? It never gave any issue or indicator prior. One day fine, next day click. All fuses good, too. Starter relay is the left or more forward one, correct?
 

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would still tend towards the battery, I have put on a new one, only to have it crap out within 2 weeks
they can start once, then nothing, there are straps that connect the individual cells, if one goes, that is it
if you have a riding lawn mower (or the like) that uses a smaller than a car battery they make a good jumper for a bike
car batteries are a bit large in amperage to jump a bike
or call a parts store and see who can load test a MC batterey
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
would still tend towards the battery, I have put on a new one, only to have it crap out within 2 weeks
they can start once, then nothing, there are straps that connect the individual cells, if one goes, that is it
if you have a riding lawn mower (or the like) that uses a smaller than a car battery they make a good jumper for a bike
car batteries are a bit large in amperage to jump a bike
or call a parts store and see who can load test a MC batterey
Thank you very much!
 

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Car battery is not a problem; batteries don't "push" current to a load, the load draws what it wants from a battery. The only reason a bike uses a smaller size batter is the available space on the bike for it. As long as it is a 12v starter, any 12v battery of sufficient size will work and a larger amperage battery cannot hurt the starter. It will only draw the amps from the battery that it needs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Car battery is not a problem; batteries don't "push" current to a load, the load draws what it wants from a battery. The only reason a bike uses a smaller size batter is the available space on the bike for it. As long as it is a 12v starter, any 12v battery of sufficient size will work and a larger amperage battery cannot hurt the starter. It will only draw the amps from the battery that it needs.
Thank you.
 

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Thank you. Did that and same old click. Nothing. Thinking starter then? It never gave any issue or indicator prior. One day fine, next day click. All fuses good, too. Starter relay is the left or more forward one, correct?
Both relays are used for starting and backing up. If only the front one is clicking, then there may be a ground issue with the rear one. The front is the A starter relay and the rear is the B starter relay. The A feeds power to the B which energizes it and then it sends the power on to the starter motor. The A relay gets its trigger power from the starter button switch and it gets its ground from the reverse regulator assembly via the reverse relay when its energized. The B relay gets its trigger and power from the A relay and its ground comes from the reverse switch mounted on the right side of the engine block and is grounded when the bike is not in reverse. Check the cable nuts on the top of both relays for tightness and corrosion. The saddlebag has to come loose and be pulled away from the frame in the front to reach the B relay. If you probe the RVS A fuse for power when you push and hold the starter button switch, you should read battery power. This is a sample of the power leaving the B relay and heading to the starter motor. If you don’t read power on it, then there’s an issue with the relays or their control circuits and not the starter motor. If you read battery power on the fuse, then there’s a good chance it’s a dead starter motor. This diagram doesn’t show the RVS A fuse, if it did you would see it attached to the cable between the B relay and the starter motor with one end running to the cruise/reverse control module.

 
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