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Discussion Starter #1
Looking at the service manual it seems spark plug replacemant is fairly straight forward.

Is there anything to look out for or "trick of the trade" for someone who is mildly mechanic, (just out of practice)?
 

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The new machines are so efficient with their electronics now, the spark plugs seem to be a lost art. The primary thing I would say do, is tho put a small amoujt of "anti seize" on each plugs threads to make sure that since they are in the engine so long before checking or changing, that will keep them from ruining an aluminum head. You could "degree" them, but that is an unnecessary performance thing they do to maximize fuel burn.
Also, don't pull on the plug wire to pull them off the plug, pull the actual cap. You don't want to break the plug wire.
Oh...be careful putting the spark plug in the head, do not cross thread the plug!

Keep up the good maintenance and ride, ride, ride.
 

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torque wrench and a service manual

Get a good digital torque wrench if you don't have one.
This should be a requirement before you work on your bike.

If you haven't used one, read the directions, it's a precision tool.
It matters how you store and if you bring it down from 85 lbs to 25 it may not work properly.

If you never used one and get the recommended torque setting for your oil plug, spark plug etc. you will scare yourself as to how little leverage it takes.

These aluminum blocks won't take overtorque or cross threading.

80 bucks is peanuts compared to pulling or replacing a motor.
50 bucks for the manual is also minimal as it will give you the confidence to do your own maintenance.
 

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Service mnual states 16,000 mi for plug replacement, but I know there's riders out there that go over double that and then some. I'll likely inspect mine come spring but that's about it. Good point by l2r about the digital torque wrench, it sure opened my eyes.
 

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I'm not trying to be a jerk, but don't get the plug wires mixed up, get them on the wrong plugs and your wing won't run worth a crap. I only say this because I've fixed a couple bikes after the owners changed the plugs and got a couple plug wires mixed up. Do it one at a time and you can avoid this happening.
From the Northwest Corner.
Ron
 

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I'm not trying to be a jerk, but don't get the plug wires mixed up, get them on the wrong plugs and your wing won't run worth a crap. I only say this because I've fixed a couple bikes after the owners changed the plugs and got a couple plug wires mixed up. Do it one at a time and you can avoid this happening.
From the Northwest Corner.
Ron
Do one at a time and you won't make that mistake....:D
 

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re:Grandy

Hi Grandy,

Spark plug problem is rear problem and everyone face this type of problem. This problem is solved at home very easily whenever your bike plug has got a problem in starting in winter then remove plug and heat the spark plug after it plug in your bike. Your bike will be start shortly.
Take care!

Finklea.

Stainless Steel Hitch Covers
 

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Discussion Starter #8
All great information, thanks so much
 

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Here is an old mechanics trick to avoid cross threading. First of cut about 5in of rubber tube that will fit firmly on the top of the plug. Gap the plug with a good wire plug feeler guage. Hold the tube by the other end with your finger tips and insert the plug then tighten it finger tight with the tube. Pull off the tube, torque the plug down to specs and re attach the plug wire. Be sure it is seated well on the plug.
 

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Yes, and add a little elect. grease to the boot and it will slip on easier and seat onto the plug better.
 
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