Honda Goldwing Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
[Edit: this problem just went away after taking all the fuses out a couple of times. I marked it solved for now but I still don't know if it's fixed.]

I was giving my 2008 GL a once-over before a longer ride planned for later this week. While I had the seat off I decided to check the tightness of the connections for the starter solenoid as I've heard they can get loose and cause problems that are hard to diagnose on the road.

And here's where I switched off my brain. Since this was a quick check (it just occurred to me to do it) I didn't disconnect the battery cables. When tightening the solenoid connection I managed to touch the frame with the socket extension, causing a short (effectively between the positive battery terminal and the frame). There was a spark and now I have no power in any system except the trunk lock. When I use the key fob the trunk locks/unlocks and the rear lights/dash indicators flash as expected. All other systems are completely dead.

I have 12.6V entering the fuse box and I've checked every fuse in the fuse box with my Fluke multimeter - they all have continuity and very low resistance. I wondered if I damaged my battery so I connected a spare, slightly smaller battery that I know is good and it made no difference. I haven't checked all relays but I read that all the 4-prong relays are identical so since the trunk lock is working I tried its relay elsewhere - no luck.

I've been googling and searching the forums and tried everything that might apply. I know there's a connection (C21?) under the right glovebox that powers the ignition switch and can cause problems when a bit corroded, but I cleaned it a couple of months ago when I had the top shelter off. I think the problem lies elsewhere in this case anyway.

I know I screwed up here. I have been self-flogging since this happened last night. I've been wrenching long enough to know better and am usually more careful. I worry that I may have done some very serious damage by jamming 12V through the ground circuitry. I have visions of fried electronics which on this bike could be an expensive nightmare to fix. My good intentions of making sure my Wing is in tip top running order may have done the opposite, thanks to my carelessness.

Does anyone have ideas on what I may have damaged and what I can do to troubleshoot this?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
28,738 Posts
Hang in there Chuck, hopefully one of our techie 1800 guys will be along soon.
 
  • Like
Reactions: chuck65

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
12,069 Posts
I assume you checked the two large fuses at the bottom of the fuse panel.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,124 Posts
I am going to suggest you recheck the heavy duty fusese. There is a 120A 60A and I believe acouple of 30A fuses any one of which might be the issue.

You say you have a Fluke multimeter so I would use it to trace out the circiut .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sorry, I actually did have a failed fuse, but replacing it didn't solve my problem. I was a bit stressed and tired so I somehow managed to miss one. It was the 30A "Main A". I replaced it, turned on the key and everything lit up as it should for about two seconds until the same fuse failed again.

I'm gonna see if I can track down the fault by testing at the relay box in the circuits downstream of that fuse. There are also a couple that don't go through relays.

Or I might soak on it for a day. I've made enough mistakes in the last 24 hours. 😑
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
784 Posts
Does the "Main A" fuse blow in the "ACC" position or does it blow in the "ON" position? In the ACC position the only thing the Main A fuse powers is the Accessory Relay and the Power Amp Relay. In the "ON" position is powers Horn/Turn Relay, Tail Relay, fuses 12, 13,11, 14, 10, 9, (16, 17 air bag models) and fuse 7.
 
  • Like
Reactions: chuck65

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Does the "Main A" fuse blow in the "ACC" position or does it blow in the "ON" position? In the ACC position the only thing the Main A fuse powers is the Accessory Relay and the Power Amp Relay. In the "ON" position is powers Horn/Turn Relay, Tail Relay, fuses 12, 13,11, 14, 10, 9, (16, 17 air bag models) and fuse 7.
Good question and info - thanks! I've only checked it with the ignition in the ON position. I will check it in ACC as a next step in troubleshooting. The 30A fuses are pretty pricey so I might wire up an inline glass fuseholder for testing.

Looking at ECM prices made me almost sick, so I hope I don't end up needing one of those...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
There are likely folks here reading my posts on this subject at another forum. I have been asking everywhere I can. Anyway, here's the update I posted there:

To track down the fault, I pulled all the fuses and jumpered in a 30A blade fuse for Main A. Then I turned on the power and put each fuse back in, waiting for that Main A to blow. Guess what? The Main A fuse didn't fail and the bike is now working. All systems go!

Now I have another thing to worry about. I wonder if this might suddenly happen again? Could just pulling and reinstalling fuses (again) get rid of an apparent short circuit? The fuse box connections don't seem dirty or corroded. I've tried moving all the harnesses around with the fusebox hanging loose and can't repeat the fault. I had the battery out for more than a day so all systems would have reset, I think.

276598
 
  • Like
Reactions: NREMTP and Jinx

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
784 Posts
That's would worry me a bit, if all of a sudden it stopped blowing the fuse without really doing thing with the exception of pulling and replacing fuses. I've never heard of a fuse causing the Main A fuse to blow. Typically one would expect the fuses connected to the Main A fuse circuit to blow first. I'd give it a try for a while, turning it on then off, if the fuse doesn't blow then I'd be good to go. Good luck.
 
  • Like
Reactions: chuck65

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That's would worry me a bit, if all of a sudden it stopped blowing the fuse without really doing thing with the exception of pulling and replacing fuses. I've never heard of a fuse causing the Main A fuse to blow. Typically one would expect the fuses connected to the Main A fuse circuit to blow first. I'd give it a try for a while, turning it on then off, if the fuse doesn't blow then I'd be good to go. Good luck.
Thanks. I too thought a downstream fuse should blow first. A couple of circuits off Main A don't have a second fuse so I think I'll focus on those for starters.

I've driven it about 100 km since getting it back together and it's been running fine so far. I've added extra spare fuses and my jumper/30A fuse test setup to my tool kit. It's pretty easy to lug around and gives me a little more peace of mind. Every time I turn the key I get a few seconds of unwanted suspense. :)

276612
 
  • Like
Reactions: NREMTP and Luv2fish

·
Registered
Joined
·
956 Posts
[Edit: this problem just went away after taking all the fuses out a couple of times. I marked it solved for now but I still don't know if it's fixed.]

I was giving my 2008 GL a once-over before a longer ride planned for later this week. While I had the seat off I decided to check the tightness of the connections for the starter solenoid as I've heard they can get loose and cause problems that are hard to diagnose on the road.

And here's where I switched off my brain. Since this was a quick check (it just occurred to me to do it) I didn't disconnect the battery cables. When tightening the solenoid connection I managed to touch the frame with the socket extension, causing a short (effectively between the positive battery terminal and the frame). There was a spark and now I have no power in any system except the trunk lock. When I use the key fob the trunk locks/unlocks and the rear lights/dash indicators flash as expected. All other systems are completely dead.

I have 12.6V entering the fuse box and I've checked every fuse in the fuse box with my Fluke multimeter - they all have continuity and very low resistance. I wondered if I damaged my battery so I connected a spare, slightly smaller battery that I know is good and it made no difference. I haven't checked all relays but I read that all the 4-prong relays are identical so since the trunk lock is working I tried its relay elsewhere - no luck.

I've been googling and searching the forums and tried everything that might apply. I know there's a connection (C21?) under the right glovebox that powers the ignition switch and can cause problems when a bit corroded, but I cleaned it a couple of months ago when I had the top shelter off. I think the problem lies elsewhere in this case anyway.

I know I screwed up here. I have been self-flogging since this happened last night. I've been wrenching long enough to know better and am usually more careful. I worry that I may have done some very serious damage by jamming 12V through the ground circuitry. I have visions of fried electronics which on this bike could be an expensive nightmare to fix. My good intentions of making sure my Wing is in tip top running order may have done the opposite, thanks to my carelessness.

Does anyone have ideas on what I may have damaged and what I can do to troubleshoot this?
That's the reason I always disconnect the negative side of the battery before doing ANY electrical work on the bike. It's too easy to do a WHOOPS. Resetting the clock and radio is easier than trying to find out what happened after the spark.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have CAA roadside recovery and the problem hasn't resurfaced, so I decided to go through with the longer ride I had planned. I drove it about 1,200 km yesterday/today and it has been fine (touches wood).
 

·
Registered
2021 Honda Goldwing Tour DCT
Joined
·
13 Posts
I actually responded to you right after you posted, but the reply didn't get posted. I guess I hit the wrong button or something.

My suggestion was to recheck the fuses and if they were fine to leave the battery disconnected for 24hrs. After reconnecting the battery, all should be fine. I did almost this exact same goof on my ST1300. There are lots of small capacitors associated with the bike's computer(s). Allowing for them to drain let's the ecm to reset also. If no damage was done, the reset will clear the error and all is good. At this point, I wouldn't worry too much about it. (Unless you don't disconnect the battery first next time 😉).
 
  • Like
Reactions: NREMTP
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top