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Discussion Starter #1
Okay guys so you know just got my dream bike F6B 2016 with now three thousand miles on it. So first oil change is due at 4,000 and I'm definitely doing that. According to the manual my clutch fluid, brake fluid, and coolant is all due because of time it's sitting in the bike not because of mileage. How fast would you be jumping on this maintenance and changing those fluids? Thanks,
 

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The simple answer would be you either believe in maintenance or you don't. Every fluid in every location has a life. Not only because the fluid itself might go bad but because most systems have no way of filtering the fluid. Ever heard of a brake fluid filter? Nope so yes it does need to be changed. The coolant in the Goldwing is designed for the aluminum engine and also to properly lubricate the water pump, so yes it should be changed. Right away? maybe not but someday.
Will the wing go a long time without doing these things? I would say yes it will and plenty have. But at 70 MPH I want it to be as reliable as possible. Just my opinion.
Ride safe
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The simple answer would be you either believe in maintenance or you don't. Every fluid in every location has a life. Not only because the fluid itself might go bad but because most systems have no way of filtering the fluid. Ever heard of a brake fluid filter? Nope so yes it does need to be changed. The coolant in the Goldwing is designed for the aluminum engine and also to properly lubricate the water pump, so yes it should be changed. Right away? maybe not but someday.
Will the wing go a long time without doing these things? I would say yes it will and plenty have. But at 70 MPH I want it to be as reliable as possible. Just my opinion.
Ride safe
Yeah I think I'm going to get the stuff that is 2 years due out of the way first, since I have no records of if anything was done which I seriously doubt if I bought it with 2700 on it, probably go brake fluid first, then coolant, then clutch, I don't think my final drive has a year on it if I'm not mistaken.
 

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Yeah I think I'm going to get the stuff that is 2 years due out of the way first, since I have no records of if anything was done which I seriously doubt if I bought it with 2700 on it, probably go brake fluid first, then coolant, then clutch, I don't think my final drive has a year on it if I'm not mistaken.

I completely agree with Behind Bars. Don’t skip the final drive oil. It is cheap and easy to change. When I first got my 2015 I was going over it and found very little fluid in the final drive. I drained it and showed the dealer complaining that they didn’t do the dealer prep right. He said they often come from the factory low and that’s not part of dealer prep. I recommend you add this to your list.

Steve
 

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I run Amsoil in my Wing and track bike too. Once annually for oil and filter change, and I do the final drive at the same time. Recommendations are to change brake fluid once every 2 years, but that is under ideal conditions. If the brake recall has been done recently, then the brake fluid should be good for at least one more season. Clutch, check the sight glass, it should be nice and clear (light tan tint) but that won't tell you about moisture contamination within. Dot 4 does attract moisture, both clutch and brake systems. The linked brake system is a bit more difficult to drain and refill than a conventional brake layout, but it can be done by yourself at home. A Mighty Vac certainly helps. Should be some youtube vids out there on the procedure to assist you. Google certainly can be your friend. I strongly recommend a service manual if you haven't already got one.
 

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I completely agree with Behind Bars. Don’t skip the final drive oil. It is cheap and easy to change. When I first got my 2015 I was going over it and found very little fluid in the final drive. I drained it and showed the dealer complaining that they didn’t do the dealer prep right. He said they often come from the factory low and that’s not part of dealer prep. I recommend you add this to your list.

Steve
Your dealer is mistaken. Checking ALL fluids is part of dealer prep. but few check it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I run Amsoil in my Wing and track bike too. Once annually for oil and filter change, and I do the final drive at the same time. Recommendations are to change brake fluid once every 2 years, but that is under ideal conditions. If the brake recall has been done recently, then the brake fluid should be good for at least one more season. Clutch, check the sight glass, it should be nice and clear (light tan tint) but that won't tell you about moisture contamination within. Dot 4 does attract moisture, both clutch and brake systems. The linked brake system is a bit more difficult to drain and refill than a conventional brake layout, but it can be done by yourself at home. A Mighty Vac certainly helps. Should be some youtube vids out there on the procedure to assist you. Google certainly can be your friend. I strongly recommend a service manual if you haven't already got one.
Wow you are about to make my day once again budoka. I know when I bot my 13 f6b there was a brake recall and I think you may remember the debacle I went thru on that, but I did not think the 16 had a recall. If that is the case, I may do like I did before, take it in for the recall and just have them do the clutch and check the final drive while in there. That would be great. I am calling the dealership tomorrow with my VIN to see if there is a recall...that would be great but looks like it stops with the 2015
 

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Not 1005 certain, but I think the recall on the brakes is on all pre 2018 models. There again, a simple VIN check will tell you for sure. Can even be done over the phone if the dealer is half worth his salt...if they balk at that, find another dealer. I'd gladly do it for you but I can't search US models, only Canadian ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Not 1005 certain, but I think the recall on the brakes is on all pre 2018 models. There again, a simple VIN check will tell you for sure. Can even be done over the phone if the dealer is half worth his salt...if they balk at that, find another dealer. I'd gladly do it for you but I can't search US models, only Canadian ones.
Okay great! Thank you, this would be awesome as the clutch fluid, and the rear-drive is not normally that expensive to check
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Darn zero recalls! Oh well I'll start with the brake fluid, then do my radiator, then clutch
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Come to think of it I'm not sure if I've ever bled the brakes, I know what system I have to use to bleed brakes front caliper, back caliper middle, crazy stuff! But I was reading on a forum that they're different millimeter bleed valve's is that right?
 

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Come to think of it I'm not sure if I've ever bled the brakes, I know what system I have to use to bleed brakes front caliper, back caliper middle, crazy stuff! But I was reading on a forum that they're different millimeter bleed valve's is that right?
I believe you need 8 and 10 mm wrenches.
 

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Been awhile, but I seem to recall the back bleed valves are different . I repeat, it has been awhile . I also seem to recall my front tire valve is different from my rear tire. The front uses a metric air pressure gauge and the rear a SAE pressure gauge . Strange.

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Been awhile, but I seem to recall the back bleed valves are different . I repeat, it has been awhile . I also seem to recall my front tire valve is different from my rear tire. The front uses a metric air pressure gauge and the rear a SAE pressure gauge . Strange.

Sent from my E6830 using Tapatalk
"It can't be that easy, no way."


Sound familiar????

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If you are doing the brakes, do the clutch at the same time. You have all the tools and fluid out. It is not that much extra work.
The clutch is a little more work, but you'll learn how to take the lower cowl and canister off.
Honda still hasn't figured out that they could have extended the bleeder to make it more accessible.
 
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