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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, everyone;
I'm a newbie here, this is my first post, and I have a few questions.
After looking at what's available in the touring market, and considering my personal likes and dislikes, I have decided to resurrect a 1975 GL 1000 Wing that I found at a friends junkyard and turn it into a minimalist tourer. The bike looks like it's in good shape, and already has a Windjammer SS with lowers, and mounts for a set of Vetter bags (can you say, retro??) I'm sure that it's going to need a carb rebuild, new fluids, and maybe a set of new tires. So my questions are...What is parts availability like for older wings? Is stuff still available (I'm thinking specifically of the timing belt, maybe a new gas tank & etc.) Are stock size tires still available? Can you run a tube in a tire designed to be tubeless (this is a pre-Comstar-wheel unit, it still has the stock spoke rims)? Are there other 'gotchas' that I should watch for? I have owned two of this model in the past, but they were both new. I put a lot of mileage on them before I sold them (got married), so I know that they are reliable if properly cared for. If you have any suggestions or advice, please post here or contact me direct (I'll put my email address at the end of this post. Thanks, this is looking like it's going to be a lot of FUN!!

Ride Safe & Sane;
Hank S.
Albuquerque, NM
[email protected]:)
 

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you can get timing belts at napa auto parts store along with some other things you may need but do not run tubless tires with spoke wheels as the rim is not sealed and the air will just leak right out and do replace the tires once you get it road wearthy
 

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Hi, "Dr. Buzzard'... Yeah, I knew about the tire thing, I was just wondering if you can run tubes in tubeless tires. I'm also sure the gas tank will have to be cleaned and sealed, since the bike has been sitting about a decade. I'll probably use POR-15 for that. Thanks for the reply, and I hope to see you on the road soon.

Ride Safe & Sane;
Hank S.
 

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are you planning on putting wheels from a '78- '79 or later wing on yours
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Dr. Buzzard...
I'm not planning on changing the wheels right away, kind of like the 'retro' look. Practicality issues may convince me to change them later, I'd like to find a set of 'period correct' Lesters if I do this.
Also, is there a place where I can find some gauges?

Ride Safe & Sane;
Hank S.
 

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i sent you a private message
 

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Just acquired a 1979 GL1000

I'm a new rider, just this year and my wife and I are hooked. We currently ride an '81 cb750, but we were given a 1979 GL100 by a dear friend who gave up riding 20 years ago when he parked his '79 Goldwing. It had not moved since then until we picked it up two weeks ago. We have it home now and I would like to know where to start in terms of the engine on a bike that has not even moved in such a long time. There is a fair amount of surface rust, mainly cosmetic things, but it lost oil from the forks during transport and I'm also concerned about the carbs and fuel tank.

Any suggestions on how to tackle this project?
 

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alf, Decide 1st if you are going to do work or take it to a shop. If you, do get a Service manual. You can download a Clymers from the following website, It's not as good as Honda shop manual but it's a start.
http://www.goldwingworld.com/pages/Downloads.htm

I would bank on changing seals, belts, tires maybe even some hoses, etc. You know "consumables". If bike hasn't run in a long time there may/will be some issues. Another good thing to do is take lots of pictures. I did that when I tore 2 Formula race cars down to bare chassis. It helps at reassembly especially if there are a few months between work. It is amazing how much you can forget if process is long.

Hope this helps, good luck with your endeavor & welcome to the site.

P.S. Don't be bashful about starting a new thread. When you attach to an old one it get's a bit cumbersome to read & some guys don't chime in because they went through the old one before.
 

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1979 GL1000 Restore

Thanks so much for the advice fossil92. The idea of taking photographs is one that I've already had, and I agree, one can forget a lot in even a couple of weeks. My main concern is the engine. I can dismantle and clean up the chrome and frame bits, even the fork seals, but I don't know enough about engines to dismantle and reassemble. I guess what I need to accept is after 20years of not moving this bike needs to be dismantled and then resassembled if for no other reason but to loosen bolts that may be seized to allow for some clean up and lubrication. Any advice regarding the fuel tank? How does one tell if there is rust or corrosion damage deep inside?

Thanks again
Cheers
 

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As crazy as this may sound. Did you try to turn the bike over? I mean start it of course.;)
The fuel tank can be removed & flushed out. I know that there are camera devices out there that have a scope on them. Ridgid tools makes one, I think it's around $200. However you may just want to drain it & put in new fuel.
If the bike turns over & starts change oil run it a bit & prepare to change oil again. You have to decide if you're going to tackle this or give it to a shop.
If I was faced with similar situation I would do it myself however I would probably pull up short of tearing engine down. Just my opinion.

Good Luck.
 

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Hi, I have a 76 LTD, The tyres (tires) on it are Metzeler 100/90 - 19 (57H) up front and 130/90 B 17 (74H) Me88 Marathon (Still Metzeler) on the rear.

They are both Tubeless....As my bike still runs the gold spoked wheels I assume that there are tubes inside.

V8
 

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I am also in the process of restoring a 75 GL1000. I have done quite a bit of work so far, I still don't know if it's going to run, but I'm getting close. I have found a lot of parts that I needed from a place called Sirius Consolidated. Try googling that. Some of the things I have done to mine so far are changing the steering bearings from loose ball bearings to tapered roller bearings (bought from Sirius). This was a much needed upgrade, as the steering was "notchy" or "jerky" when the bars were turned. Smooth as silk now. You will almost certainly need to do carb work. I bought a kit and changed all the jets and checked everything inside. This was about $80. Take the carbs off as a group still attached to the central plenum. I didn't even take mine off the plenum, so didn't need to mess with the linkages. (they're complicated). Probably the worst thing on mine was the gas tank. It was filthy beyond words. Check my thread on this forum "how do you clean a dirty gastank". I recieved great info, and it worked. You must remove the tank if it needs cleaning, and this is a bit of a chore, but worth every minute. Ihave also done extensive polishing of the aluminum covers and intake manifolds and fork lowers. Mine looked like **** when I started, but I was able to polish them to a very high shine. I started with 200 grit sandpaper and worked up to 1500 grit. Then buffed it with a cloth wheel and aluminum polish. I used some clear aluminum wheel spray coating to keep them shiny. I changed my fork seals, and cleaned the inside of the forks, and smoothed a few nicks in them. The fork seals were very hard to get out the old ones, this will take some time, be patient, don't wreck the forks legs. My engine is leaking oil around the glass viewing port on the right side. I just want to SLAP the guy who designed this thing. I will try to silicone seal around it the best I can, I am not going to take the engine apart to fix this. By the way, do you still have the removable kick starter that this model came with? I am able to turn the engine over using it for checking valve clearances etc. Very handy. I had to look in the manual to see where it fits onto the engine! good luck with your project, Norm
 

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parts availability is great! to my surprise, honda still supplies almost everything you could need for these bikes. albeit at a premium, but its there.
 

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My first wing was a 79 with the Vetter SS Fairing and vetter trunk, and bags. I road that bike all over the Eastern US from Michigan to Florida. It was a good running machine.
 
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