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Discussion Starter #1
My final drive has developed a leak and it appears to be the seal just inside the side flange.

My question is how do I remove this part?

My 2005 service manual tells me to remove the flange to get to the seal but it doesn't describe how to remove it.

I'd sure appreciate anyone describing how to remove this part.

Thanks,
Denny
 

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Second try
 

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Regrettable I believe that is the way you get to it.
 

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I stand corrected. It looks like you remove the two screws and that is it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I stand corrected. It looks like you remove the two screws and that is it.
That's what I thought. The screws are out and there is no wiggle to the flange. FWIW, one of the screws was loose and the only thing holding it in was the brake rotor.

I put the screws back in a few threads and tried to wiggle it out that way - no joy.

I put screw drivers in between the flange and cover and pried a bit - no joy.

From the parts diagram, it appears the 5 lug bolts and the 2 dowels are pressed in to the gear hub and not the flange. So the flange has to come off all 7 of those things at the same time.

I think I'll douse it with WD40 and see what happens.

Thanks again,
Denny
 

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If I'm not mistaken and I've never had one apart, but isn't that ring gear attached directly to the wheel lugs? And that shaft may have a c-clip holding it in and bearings in place for assembly. I believe you still have some removal to do including those little screws you already removed.
 

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That's what I thought. The screws are out and there is no wiggle to the flange. FWIW, one of the screws was loose and the only thing holding it in was the brake rotor.

I put the screws back in a few threads and tried to wiggle it out that way - no joy.

I put screw drivers in between the flange and cover and pried a bit - no joy.

From the parts diagram, it appears the 5 lug bolts and the 2 dowels are pressed in to the gear hub and not the flange. So the flange has to come off all 7 of those things at the same time.

I think I'll douse it with WD40 and see what happens.

Thanks again,
Denny

From the service manual just the two screws need to be removed . It appears that the wheel and two screws are all that holds it on. I think you are on the right track with the wd40.
Sorry I couldn't help with this
 

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I have had these apart and yes remove the screws and wack it with a lead hammer - don't spray wd-40 on it as that just makes a mess. The ring should pop off once you jar it loose.

Normally when the seal leaks one of the paired bearings is bad causing the ring gear assembly to wiggle. Better check that as you may wish to simply replace the entire unit instead. get a hold of a rear trike conversion outfit and just pay them the $50 bucks for a replacement would be my choice.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have had these apart and yes remove the screws and wack it with a lead hammer - don't spray wd-40 on it as that just makes a mess. The ring should pop off once you jar it loose.

Normally when the seal leaks one of the paired bearings is bad causing the ring gear assembly to wiggle. Better check that as you may wish to simply replace the entire unit instead. get a hold of a rear trike conversion outfit and just pay them the $50 bucks for a replacement would be my choice.
Thanks for that but I wonder if were talking about the same part. The part I need to remove is a flat flange that goes over the wheel studs. The parts manual has it as FLANGE, FINAL GEAR SIDE 41441-MCA-010.

I've done everything I can think of to get some movement out of it, including the hammer, without breaking other things in the process, and it just wont budge.

I've looked on ebay for drives and ones under 100k miles are around $200 with shipping. Fair price? If not, where should I look?

Thanks for the help,
Denny
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I found a 2010 final drive with 40k miles on ebay for $119 shipped, so I bought it.

If I ever get the flange off I'll post what it took.

Thanks, everyone, for the help.

The Wanderer
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Someone on another board suggested longer bolts thru the rotor mounting holes might jimmy it off, and that worked. There are a lot of tight fit diameters, dowels and studs that keep it in place and all that stuff just makes it difficult to get off.


Unfortunately, what I found underneath is ugly. It appears the bearing suffered a failure - don't know why, maybe just age because I serviced it more often than the maintenance schedule. The bearing cage started to disintegrate and several balls are missing and apparently somewhere inside the case. This debris then tore up the seal. It would take a total tear down, and probably every rotating part, including the gears, would need replaced.


So I just receive the used drive and it appears to be in good shape.


If anyone has any tips to installing one of these, I'm all ears.


Thanks again,
Denny
 

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yep that is what they do when they go bad one of the bearing retainers breaks which trashes the bearing or bearings as there is a pair. And this has nothing to do with oil or service it is most likely a defect. It is quite rare as I have only seen one so far but every unit that has failed seems to have the same large bearing fail.
 

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And the learning process continues. Something for many of us to pay attention to
 
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