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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
i just watched the crappion video,and they said the best thing you can do,aside from adding a fork brace is bypassing the anti dive.it looks like it would be good for emergency brakeing (the suspension would soak up some of the force and help stop front wheel lock up.has anyone tried this and what do you think? BOB
 

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If you take the anti-matter out of the dilethium crystals I'm afraid the warp drive will malfunction and you will have to eject the core captain.... Oh wait, that star treck.. Never mind I just had a senior moment.
 
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My forks where modified by Crappion and the anti-dive was disabled, I cannot say that I miss the anti dive at all as the crappion setup does not collapse the suspension under breaking like the standard suspension. Several people claim the anti-dive just blows fork seals, I would probably keep it if I was running stock suspension but have to agree with Crappion that once the suspension is setup correctly and working, you do not require the anti-dive.. I remeber in the 90's it was a fad that bikes went through and it died like many other fads!!

Gary
 

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Actually you don't want to remove it, just disable it. There is guy on e-bay that is selling a kit to do it. Or you can do it yourself with a nickle. Drill a hole in a nickle just big enough for the plunger on the anti dive valve to go through and put the nickle between the two pieces of the anti dive valve and put it back together, The extra distance that the nickle creates is enough that the valve won't work.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks joe, i just ordered the kit,i'll let you know what i think about the change in ride
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i love the way the bike stops with the anti dive bypassed! doesn't stop so abrupt
 

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I suppose I could read it for myself somewhere but, what is anti-dive. I know I have it, just don't know why. Enlighten me please.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
when you apply your front brakes the anti dive prevents the front forks from compressing.try sitting on your bike,hold the front brake & push down on the bars.it will barely move.bypassing allows your forks to move normally,also will prevent blowing out your fork seal.here is where you can get the spacer,simple to install! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GL180...Q5fAccessories
 

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Does having anti-dive mean I WILL blow a fork seal just because I have it, or could it happen during an emergency braking situation ? I like the concept of lessening the abrupt stop. Was this your reason for doing it? Unless I concentrate well, it often happens that when I stop I feel the Utopia backrest slap me in the a$$. When I ride two up I'm sure I'll be slapped with more than that.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
the way it stopped abrupt was my main reason,especially when riding 2 up or with the bars turned,not blowing out the seals was just an added benefit ! try it out,if for some reason u don't like it just take the spacer out,no harm done!
 

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Hey guys,
where is the anitvalve and how do you get to it? What tools do you need?
Thanks,

P.S. I have a 2008 GL1800, has only 1800 miles on it, and it already blew a seal. The honda dealer did not want to replace it for free, saying that Honda says it is a wear and tear item. I complained that it is a brand new bike, and with some constant badgering and calling Honda myself, they sent a rep to see my bike, and they agreed to replace it for free. A one time deal thing. But I don't want to go through that again. So now I am considering doing this thing to the anti-dive valve. I am not that mechanically inclined, so wanted to know exactly what I needed to do.
Thanks again.
Big "R"
 

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Hmmm, there are many things I've never heard of...and this is another one!
Is this really possible? How could this anti-dive system on thousands of bikes be causing the seals to blow? Isn't a safety item? I'm confused..
 

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Yeah, I agree. does not make sense. But I don't want any more seal problems with this bike. They were going to charge me $368 to replace both seals. If I can prevent it by doing this anti-dive thing, that would most likely be beneficial for me.
 

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Well, it sounds interesting; If it can be done so easily then why not? I might even try it just see the difference..can never stop learning! These forums are just TOO awesome!!
 

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I did the nickel thing and I have no doubts that my anti dive was stuck and staying engaged all of the time. The improvement is like night and day. I am a little worried about hitting something and blowing a seal as the stock springs are supposed to be on the weak side to begin with. One trick some have done instead of the nickel or ebay thing is to screw out the bleeder valve on the antidive one turn only and cut a washer in half (they say an old crush washer works well) and insert it and retighten. The difference is apparantly not as much but the anti dive will still engage some and prevent a seal from blowing.

One thing that bothers me about the whole anti dive is that it being on one fork only (left) looks like it would be warping or binding the whole front when it is engaged.
 

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if you take the anti-matter out of the dilethium crystals i'm afraid the warp drive will malfunction and you will have to eject the core captain.... Oh wait, that star treck.. Never mind i just had a senior moment.

LMOBO


(Laughing my old butt off!)
 
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Thanks Bobby,
I tried that link and it took me to a page that said the item has been removed or page no longer available. I read somewhere here that a nickel with a hole drilled in the center could do the same thing. Any comments on that?
 
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