Honda Goldwing Forum banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
2015 GL1800
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Searched through the Oil and Lube section, but didn't find a specific answer on this. Told my riding partner yesterday that I was going to switch to synthetic oil on my 2017 Wing. I bought it last Oct 30 with 11,600 miles. I've put another 8,000 on it and am about to change oil for the second time. He said that I had too many miles on it to make the change, that I would have needed to switch over early on. He didn't recall where-when he had heard this or what the problem would be. My guess is that he heard or read something from someone who thought synthetic might cause oil leaks once an engine had been broken in. I think that's bad info and that I should easily be able to switch to synthetic without any issues.

So, anyone heard anything along that line?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
14,922 Posts
I switched to a synthetic somewhere along the way. My guess would be around 30,000 miles or so, but it was a long time ago in another galaxy. I haven't experienced any issues.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,659 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
I have sought oil advice and wisdom for decades and still no consensus about oil. It's almost as if putting anything slippery in the crankcase is okay.
If synthetic reduces friction forces, why would anyone not go to synthetic? Some say synthetic allows one to go further between changes. Why would that matter? Isn't the purpose of oil to reduce friction wear and extend the life of the motor?
I'll likely be 6 feet under before there is universal knowledge about oil.
 

·
Registered
2015 GL1800
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have sought oil advice and wisdom for decades and still no consensus about oil. It's almost as if putting anything slippery in the crankcase is okay.
If synthetic reduces friction forces, why would anyone not go to synthetic? Some say synthetic allows one to go further between changes. Why would that matter? Isn't the purpose of oil to reduce friction wear and extend the life of the motor?
I'll likely be 6 feet under before there is universal knowledge about oil.
There are few topics which can start a fight quicker than declaring, "Brand X (my brand) is the best oil!" On fighter aircraft, oil samples are taken after every flight or engine run for 'spectrometric' analysis, looking for changes in material content to indicate normal wear or potentially failing components. That's about the only objective measurement to detect if an oil is doing its job. Otherwise, it's all subjective: I think my engine runs smoother, cooler, quieter. In the case of the Wing, perhaps shifting is a bit smoother (which is specifically why I'm pursuing synthetic oil). At the end of the day, if we follow factory recommendations, even sticking to conventional oil, that's likely enough.

One thing about synthetic: many years ago, my dad was at some sort of automotive event where he found himself speaking with a Castrol rep. Dad asked the rep if synthetic oil really met its claims and was worth the extra cost. After hemming and hawing for a bit, the rep told him that his engine would reap all of the benefits of synthetic oil by simply replacing one quart of conventional oil with a quart of synthetic in an otherwise normal oil change. True? No idea. That sounds suspiciously like adding a quart of Slick 50 and reaping miraculous benefits. Then again, knowing how much my dad talks, maybe the rep was just trying to get rid of him!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
I suspect the military could teach us the truth about oil.
One other thing that bothers me. When buying oil for motorcycles, there is a “V-Twin” section of oil for bikes with wet clutches. My other motorcycle, a 1200cc BMW and has a dry clutch so car oil is fine.
BUT OUR GOLDWINGS HAVE WET CLUTCHES! So do I use car oil or that special motorcycle oil? If synthetic okay on our clutch plate?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,812 Posts
And now you have wondered into the rabbit hole of oil. As has been stated this argument has been around since the invention of the internal combustion engine. I always used Honda oil in my Wings, not because it was the best, but because I figured if Honda made the engine they must know what the engine needed to work properly.

The only thing I remember is it was not recommended to use oil with "molly" because it could cause the clutch to slip because it was too slick. I used Honda oil with molly once and it saved my engine when on a trip to the Honda Hoot in Knoxville, TN. The engine began to "tick" and when I got to a repair shop in Wythville, VA the repair shop told me a piece of silicone used to seal the engine broke loose and blocked the oil flow to the front cylinder. So go figure.

So if anyone comes up with the definitive answer to which brand and type of oil to use we can post it on the forum as "gospel". Good luck..
 
  • Like
Reactions: MSBo57

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,659 Posts
What I have learned from researching oils for motorcycle use, I am not an engineer or an expert, but I do attempt to educate myself by researching.

Be careful not to use "RESOURCE CONSERVING" or "ENERGY COSERVING" oil in a wet clutch motorcycle.
These oils can cause clutch slippage.

1618439623039.png 1618439679479.png OIP.jpg
Bad for wet clutch use''''' Bad for wet clutch use''''' OK for wet clutch use. The bottom rocker needs to be blank.


Choosing the right motorbike oil: What does JASO and JASO MA2 mean? - White Dog's Motorcycle Blog

550050467_RO_T6_15W40_1Gal_US_BACK (2).jpg
 

·
Registered
2013 F6B
Joined
·
17 Posts
Years ago I switched a 120k mile '02 Volvo from conventional to synthetic. Within 500 miles it was leaking from seals and the rear of the car was covered in oil. This is not meant to be an answer and not indicative of how a Goldwing will react, but just a personal anecdote that may help understand where the "it'll start leaking" idea comes from.
 

·
Registered
2015 GL1800
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Years ago I switched a 120k mile '02 Volvo from conventional to synthetic. Within 500 miles it was leaking from seals and the rear of the car was covered in oil. This is not meant to be an answer and not indicative of how a Goldwing will react, but just a personal anecdote that may help understand where the "it'll start leaking" idea comes from.
I saw several similar anecdotes in my search for intel. One involved a similar changeover, high mileage engine switched from dino to synthetic. (I won't say the name of the synthetic, but it starts with an 'A' and rhymes with 'Ramsoil.') Anyway, the short story is that after some miles with the synthetic, sludge from the dino oil was dislodged and caused issues. The sludge was cleared, problems fixed and the owner trucked on down the road. Easy to see how stories like this can morph over time to "synthetic sucks and causes problems." Out of curiosity, what did you do about your Volvo leakage?
 

·
Registered
2013 F6B
Joined
·
17 Posts
I saw several similar anecdotes in my search for intel. One involved a similar changeover, high mileage engine switched from dino to synthetic. (I won't say the name of the synthetic, but it starts with an 'A' and rhymes with 'Ramsoil.') Anyway, the short story is that after some miles with the synthetic, sludge from the dino oil was dislodged and caused issues. The sludge was cleared, problems fixed and the owner trucked on down the road. Easy to see how stories like this can morph over time to "synthetic sucks and causes problems." Out of curiosity, what did you do about your Volvo leakage?
Sludge could have also been part of my issue as well. As I recall, the main leakage was at the front cam seal, but I also replaced the PCV valve and other seals as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,135 Posts
Years ago I switched a 120k mile '02 Volvo from conventional to synthetic. Within 500 miles it was leaking from seals and the rear of the car was covered in oil. This is not meant to be an answer and not indicative of how a Goldwing will react, but just a personal anecdote that may help understand where the "it'll start leaking" idea comes from.
I have a friend who also rides a Ural and said when he tried synthetic in it years ago it began to leak a bit. He switched back and no more leaking since. I switched my wing over at about 70,000km (plus minus 10k) and have not had an issue. Nor have I noted any improvements in shifting or any of the other things I've read. I'll keep using synthetic because I do believe its just generally a better product and oil changes just aren't that frequent that cost matters much.
 
  • Like
Reactions: NREMTP and MSBo57

·
Registered
Joined
·
192 Posts
Searched through the Oil and Lube section, but didn't find a specific answer on this. Told my riding partner yesterday that I was going to switch to synthetic oil on my 2017 Wing. I bought it last Oct 30 with 11,600 miles. I've put another 8,000 on it and am about to change oil for the second time. He said that I had too many miles on it to make the change, that I would have needed to switch over early on. He didn't recall where-when he had heard this or what the problem would be. My guess is that he heard or read something from someone who thought synthetic might cause oil leaks once an engine had been broken in. I think that's bad info and that I should easily be able to switch to synthetic without any issues.

So, anyone heard anything along that line?
Old wives tale, you can switch without worry, I would stick with an oil meant for motorcycles with wet clutches.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MSBo57

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Switched to Rotella T6 after putting 400 miles on my 2016 Wing. Used T6 on my 2010 Wing for its entire life with no problems.
 

·
Registered
2015 GL1800
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Old wives tale, you can switch without worry, I would stick with an oil meant for motorcycles with wet clutches.
As a matter of fact, a package from Amsoil arrived just today and I'll be changing the oil tomorrow, tonight if I'm feeling ambitious!
 

·
Registered
2010 Gold Wing CSC Trike
Joined
·
5 Posts
I switch to synthetic oil at 20000 miles with the help of the Lucas Oil rep. I didn't know Lucas Oil had so many types of motorcycle oil for every bike. Mine is a 2010 Gold Wing
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Well this is what i was told at a oil quality seminar a few years back ,,The man said he changed his synthetic oil once a year whether it needed it are not < in his new camaro at the time >
and just changed his filter a couple of times and toped off the oil ,,, he said the synthetic not being oil but a chemical does not break down like the particles in petroleum oil.The whole deal is keeping it clean . so if you insist on changing your oil at 3 to 4000 miles like most of us then just use your standard oils and you have a clean engine,,I have owned every goldwing engine size and have used rotella 15-40 in every one and ride a 1500 that i have had for many years still using rotella 15-40 ,, If you like the synthetic thought of things then change your filter at 4000 and go another 4000 get you money from the expensive synthetic expense then change it all ..either way you will have a clean engine and a good goldwing..I might add i have not owned a wing past a 2010...so every thing is all opinions and a little experience ..
 

·
Registered
2010 Gold Wing CSC Trike
Joined
·
5 Posts
Well this is what i was told at a oil quality seminar a few years back ,,The man said he changed his synthetic oil once a year whether it needed it are not < in his new camaro at the time >
and just changed his filter a couple of times and toped off the oil ,,, he said the synthetic not being oil but a chemical does not break down like the particles in petroleum oil.The whole deal is keeping it clean . so if you insist on changing your oil at 3 to 4000 miles like most of us then just use your standard oils and you have a clean engine,,I have owned every goldwing engine size and have used rotella 15-40 in every one and ride a 1500 that i have had for many years still using rotella 15-40 ,, If you like the synthetic thought of things then change your filter at 4000 and go another 4000 get you money from the expensive synthetic expense then change it all ..either way you will have a clean engine and a good goldwing..I might add i have not owned a wing past a 2010...so every thing is all opinions and a little experience ..
I've done the same thing. My mechanic friend told me to keep synthetic oil clean is the trick. I've done it in my auto, tryck and bike. Never had a problem.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top