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Hey all. Haven't been here in a while. Just wanted to know if anyone else has experienced rpm searching/surging up and down when returning throttle to idle. It goes up and down for a few seconds and then levels out. Took it to the dealer and they put it on their machine and reset the ecm. It still does it. Any thoughts out there???
 

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" Haven't been on here in a while...... " We know and that's why you still have the problem.:) Refresh us: What year Wing ?; How many miles ?
 

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2010 with 2500 miles. engine rpm surges up and down when comiing back to idle. transmission has a growl, sounds like an old tail shaft bearing. so far not real happy with my new ride.
 

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I have a '10 and have put a little over 11k, and the it will idle like that, but without the sounds. Typically it does it after I back out and ride about 100 feet to a stoplight at work - pulses a couple of seconds and it will level and not do it again. I don't seem to have that issue when I've ridden it for a quarter mile or so before having to stop.
 

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tank

I have a '10 and have put a little over 11k, and the it will idle like that, but without the sounds. Typically it does it after I back out and ride about 100 feet to a stoplight at work - pulses a couple of seconds and it will level and not do it again. I don't seem to have that issue when I've ridden it for a quarter mile or so before having to stop.
Appreciate the reply Promethius. Just wanted to see if I was alone with this issue. Figured the dealer was blowing smoke up my arse as he elected to prewarn me of this little affliction after i had signed the papers.
 

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Engine RPM Surge

Hey all. Haven't been here in a while. Just wanted to know if anyone else has experienced rpm searching/surging up and down when returning throttle to idle. It goes up and down for a few seconds and then levels out. Took it to the dealer and they put it on their machine and reset the ecm. It still does it. Any thoughts out there???
I doubt if the ECM is the problem. Perhaps one of the sensors which provides information to the ECM is faulty or a slight vacuum leak.
My best guess is if the ECM needed to be flashed with an software upgrade Honda would have notified owners.:confused:
 

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I have the exact same symptoms, 3500 miles. Dealer in Naples NO help, they say it's fine. 50 years of mechanical service work tells me this is NOT fine! Any help, even from a different dealer, will be appreciated.
 

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There is nothing wrong with your bike. Many cars even do this. When programming custom fuel mapping for engines, the programmer told me that a slight addition of gas as the rpm returns down to idle is to keep the engine from leaning out and prevent it from dying. Once the engine settles into an idle, the computer will return to its idle setting. Unless you are experiencing rideability issues, I wouldn't worry about it any further. The dealer is correct and your bikes are fine.
 

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I have the exact same symptoms, 3500 miles. Dealer in Naples NO help, they say it's fine. 50 years of mechanical service work tells me this is NOT fine! Any help, even from a different dealer, will be appreciated.
Hello and welcome to the forum.
May I suggest Action Honda in Hudson, Florida.
Scott Fessler is the service manager and head Goldwing tech. This man knows Goldwings.
 

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2010 with 2500 miles. engine rpm surges up and down when comiing back to idle. transmission has a growl, sounds like an old tail shaft bearing. so far not real happy with my new ride.
I've had both these symptoms on my '08. The surging idle disappeared some time ago. The " growl " at idle speed continued. Just switched to a 20w-50w oil and growl is gone so far. Coincidence ?
 

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Don't have the growl, but have had surging. About 200 rpm up and down. Not all the time and not enough to cause a problem or concern..
 

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Many 1800's exhibit the 'surge', but not all...mine never did. There is a reset procedure that sometimes clears it up, (but not always) that you can do yourself. Start the bike cold and let it idle until the fans come on. Then shut the bike off for a bit, and restart. This should reset the ECU (which is likely what the dealer did). Don't rev or ride the bike during the process either. sometimes the surge goes away after some build up of miles (like the first oil change) but it has been known to last longer, and I've heard (we have a European member that's had a horrible time with his) that it can be as much as 1000 rpm fluctuations for long periods of time but it's actually rare for it to be that radical. In speaking with Honda Canada factory techs, they are still searching for a cause and cure to no avail yet. As to the transission 'growl' GL tannies are noisy, and so are the alternators. I'm used to most of the sounds a Wing eminates and I don't notice them as being obtrusive. Chopin has gone to different wieght oil (which is ok if you stay within the guidlines of the manual) and I run Amsoil synthetic and am very pleased with the results. But if your transmission gives off untoward vibrations or gear clashing/grinding (not the infamous 1st to 2nd 'clunk'), that's a whole different ball game and time for a check-up. If you are concerned, definitely see you dealer and explain things to your service manager. Be firm in your explaination, but be sensible. You want this guy on your side, not Honda's. Sorry I can't be of more help.
 

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budoka is correct. Never jump down the throat of your service Mgr. or Tech. They can be your friends or your nightmare.

I do not recommend going to a 20W-50 oil as it created excess heat, lower fuel mileage, less HP and can cause some engine wear. 10W-30 is great for most applications up to 10W-40. No matter what oil you choose, I highly recommend a High Quality Synthetic Motorcycle Specific. There is a diffeence.

If you do wish to use an automotive oil, be sure it has the proper specs. API SG or SG/SH. SH or higher can be used ONLY if it carries the JASO MA or MA 2 Rating.

Take a look at the M/C oil tests in our Sig. Pick one of the top 3 finishers and you will be assured of a great oil.

Use a High quality oil filter. A "Gimmicky" Nut does not mean a quality filter. DO NOT use a Pure One.

From the top down: AMSOIL EAOM-103; WIX 51358 (NAPA Gold 1358); Purolator ML Series; OEM Honda

Oil, is the Lifeblood of your engine. The oil filter, is the Kidney that keeps it clean.

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best


Bob
 

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budoka is correct. Never jump down the throat of your service Mgr. or Tech. They can be your friends or your nightmare.

I do not recommend going to a 20W-50 oil as it created excess heat, lower fuel mileage, less HP and can cause some engine wear. 10W-30 is great for most applications up to 10W-40. No matter what oil you choose, I highly recommend a High Quality Synthetic Motorcycle Specific. There is a diffeence.

If you do wish to use an automotive oil, be sure it has the proper specs. API SG or SG/SH. SH or higher can be used ONLY if it carries the JASO MA or MA 2 Rating.

Take a look at the M/C oil tests in our Sig. Pick one of the top 3 finishers and you will be assured of a great oil.

Use a High quality oil filter. A "Gimmicky" Nut does not mean a quality filter. DO NOT use a Pure One.

From the top down: AMSOIL EAOM-103; WIX 51358 (NAPA Gold 1358); Purolator ML Series; OEM Honda

Oil, is the Lifeblood of your engine. The oil filter, is the Kidney that keeps it clean.

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best


Bob
Well Bob. I'm running the 20w-50w by default for now. It was a purchase of convenience and not choice. I was at NAPA looking for an oil filter and the NAPA Gold 1358 was brought to the sales counter. They had two brands of oil there: Valvoline Motorcycle and Royal Purple. I took the Valvoline.I'll give it a 3,000+/- run this spring.
 

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The 1358 is a WIX filter and pretty good... A 20W-50 would be rare as a necessary oil in a Wing unless it is a petroleum oil and you are running very hard in 95 degree plus heat.

The old days of "Thicker is Better" is exactly that, old days.

Oil, is the Lifeblood of your engine. The oil filter, is the Kidney that keeps it clean.

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best


Bob
 
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