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Discussion Starter #1
Just bought my first Wing 02, GL1800 with 125K miles. Been riding it for a while with the wife. What a lot of fun! However, like I have read many post here, The suspension is really lacking for such a heavy bike especially with the both of on the bike. So I've schedule to have the bike to go in and have the suspension done. with the both of us were about 400 Lbs. plus maybe 50 lbs baggage for trips and the type of riding is mostly traveling highway some twisty runs.

So the plan is rear shock will get a new Progressive spring, steal braided hose and fluid serviced correctly. The forks ( currently not leaking) are going to get the Progressive springs, drop in replacement.

The question I had is, do I want to spend the extra money for the forks to be rebuilt with new fluid? And/or is it worth installing the Monotone Cartridges.
 

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Welcome to the forum. I do not feel the need for any of the mods you are looking at so let's just wait for those that have done those mods to chime in.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply, "NREMTP" (Bob?) The owner at the shop told me that if my forks were not leaking just drop in the Progressive springs. and let it go until I start to have a leaking strut then time to rebuild.

But Like you said I'm curious to see what those who have done the mods have to say.
 

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I as well as the OP have seen no need to upgrade the suspension on our wing and we like you ride 2 up with luggage, we also ride mostly in the mountains and farmlands which around here are anything but straight. I found that with the preload set at 10 both the wife and I are comfortable and the bike is stable enough that I can comfortably scrape the pegs when I feel my inner child. My buddy has had this done and all it has accomplished is a rougher ride, your wing is not a track bike but can be a sport toured if you learn to respect it's size.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Interesting Barry, I have my rear set at I think 22 (what ever the Max is) and I have felt it bottom out with both of us on board. like the we would cross the RR tracks. Maybe my rear spring is just soft or just needs to be re-serviced.
My biggest learning curve with this bike is learning to ride with a passenger.
 

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First of all, welcome to the forum.

The rear suspension has been known not to work correctly. You may have it set at 22 (25 being the max) but only actually be at 10-12. If you run it down to zero and then run it up while listening for the pump to change when it actually starts to raise the bike, you may find it doesn't do anything until it reaches 10.

Also, have you checked to see if the recalls have been done?
 

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Welcome to you from Mississippi. I've not changed anything to my 2010, so have nothing to add for you questions. But as was said, the rear suspension may be low on fluid and not working correctly.
 

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If I were to do all the work you describe, I would spend the additional money and install new fork seals and bushings. Do both and use OEM parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
First of all, welcome to the forum.

The rear suspension has been known not to work correctly. You may have it set at 22 (25 being the max) but only actually be at 10-12. If you run it down to zero and then run it up while listening for the pump to change when it actually starts to raise the bike, you may find it doesn't do anything until it reaches 10.

Also, have you checked to see if the recalls have been done?
Recalls? I wasn’t aware of any (for the rear suspension). Then again I never thought to look. Where can I get a list of the recalls on my bike?
 

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I did the front with progressive springs and cancel the anti dive not to blow seals. It did a big difference to the front end plus I installed a fork brace witch help in turning. There is a video for the rear shocks to add oil if it needs it.

 

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I can't compare monotubes with Progressive springs, but I can say the monotubes I installed were a nice improvement over stock. That annoying transmission of small road shocks into the handlebars was eliminated. I also installed a stiff (billet) replacement triple clamp which stiffened the front substantially. IMO, the stock tree is just too weak for this big bike; it flexes. In later years Honda stiffened it somewhat with increased ribbing. All in all, I found those changes very good. I've heard mixed reviews about whether fork clamps help or not, but it can't hurt.

I also installed a newer '13 (if I recall) rear spring/shock in my '06. It really stiffened the back end. When my wife and I are both on board, it's perfect. When I'm alone, it's a little stiffer than I need, but still good.

Good luck with the mods! And welcome!
 
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I would recommend going into the forks with new bushings/seals while at it. At the mileage your bike has, it needs it, unless you have information that the work has been done recently by the previous owner. That, with new fluid, and you will know that your forks are what they ought to be.
 

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Recalls? I wasn’t aware of any (for the rear suspension). Then again I never thought to look. Where can I get a list of the recalls on my bike?
The recalls are for frame cracking and the brakes.
 
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You may have as the OP said low oil in your rear shock, on mine set at 10 I have only had it bottom one time that I can remember and that was a deep pot hole filled with water that I did not see going into a dark and wet parking lot. Do as OP have said and lower your preload to 0 and then increase it, I can't hear the difference ( old ears from the army) but my wife can. I however can sit I the seat and feel the rear of the bike lift about an inch to an inch and a half.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
Thank you all for making me feel welcome to the form.

I think you guy have given me a lot to think about.
 

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The preload test is really easy, I think you can find some good videos on YouTube that show the simple steps to test it. Takes about 2 minutes.
 
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I did the front with progressive springs and cancel the anti dive not to blow seals. It did a big difference to the front end plus I installed a fork brace witch help in turning. There is a video for the rear shocks to add oil if it needs it.

That was an awesome video ...thank you .you learn something new every day . Thanks again
 

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Thank you all for making me feel welcome to the form.

I think you guy have given me a lot to think about.
Before sending your bike in the dealership, and spend lots of money .
Match your bike , and if you have that valve , that you can fill with hydro fluid , maybe thats your problem ....watch the video ....
 

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A month ago, I installed Progressive Springs. I did not replace seals or bushings. But, I did drain all the old ugly fork oil out and replaced the oil and then the springs as the manual states. Important to check oil level before dropping the springs in. My forks did not leak but then I have the SEAL MATE tool to keep the seal clean of road grime. My 2005 rear shock is fine and operates as it should. I am only 5' 6 1/2" tall and I put a lowering Kit on the bike. I usually ride with the rear shock at about 5-10 unless, I carry a passenger then I get it up to 23-24. You can Google Seal Mate and order it. I asked for 3 and they sent 5. Very inexpensive tool and after getting mine, I decided that if push came to shove, I could make one out of an old credit card.
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The side of a milk or juice jug, or an oil bottle are the perfect material to make a fork seal tool. I think mine is a "Skim Milk Seal Mate", LOL.
 
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