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Hi, I'm new to the forum. I have a 1993 GL 1500, runs great, but I've started having an intermittent problem starting. Sometimes, I hit the start button and absolutely nothing happens. When I turn the key, all the lights go on, the radio goes on, the bike is in neutral, and side stand down, but the button doesn't make anything happen. After a few tries and some jiggling of the throttle, it finally works. I opened the switch box on the handle and I don't see any corrosion. Is this a problem with the starter or some loose connection? Any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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starter button

I had the same problem on the start of a ride. '95 Aspy. Panicked; switched batteries, a friend noticed that the starter worked as the button was comming out. Fix: clean switch. Somewhere on the internet there is a step by step with photos I think it may Steve Saunders site or GoldwingFacts.
 

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Hi, I'm new to the forum. I have a 1993 GL 1500, runs great, but I've started having an intermittent problem starting. Sometimes, I hit the start button and absolutely nothing happens. When I turn the key, all the lights go on, the radio goes on, the bike is in neutral, and side stand down, but the button doesn't make anything happen. After a few tries and some jiggling of the throttle, it finally works. I opened the switch box on the handle and I don't see any corrosion. Is this a problem with the starter or some loose connection? Any help is greatly appreciated.
I have never had that problem (starting intermittently) and in my opinion there are too many related devices involved in the starting system to attempt to make an intelligent diagnosis without using a good Gold Wing service manual.
I recommend a factory Technical Service Manual from Honda for your best results.
If I can be of any assistance don`t hesitate to let me know.
carboss
 

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I had the same problem on my 95 1500A. Switch cleaning did some good. Theen it started again. After some testing I found the solinoid knowwn to Honda as a magnetic switch. There is one by the battery that would click but I got no power out. Remover it, placed an ohm meter across the switch studs and activated the coil with 12v. No continuity. Have one on order. I need to pull the one on the lower rail by the fuutpeg mount and teest it.
 

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WINGSTER
I dont know yet. I too got about 2vdc before I removed it but that would be voltage feedback from the ignition system. Ill let you know more when I get the relay in and test the system.
 

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The reason OzzieDave mentioned the clutch cutout switch is that there has to be a series of conditions met before you can start the engine; clutch cutout switch, kill switch, neutral switch etc.
 

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Well, mine turned out to be just the a solinoid. Got it in and hit the button. She turned right over but wouldn't fire. I thought "Now what the h***? Looked over and the kill switch was in the off position. Kicked myself then hit the button. She fired right up and sat there purring. I love my rocket ship
 

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Paul,
Welcome to the forum and greetings from Florida.
I can give you a 'Laundry List' of areas to check: loose connections at the battery, dirty contacts in start button, worn bushing in clutch lever, bad clutch switch, bad side-stand switch, loose connection at starter, corrosion on connections, bad relay.
How old is the battery? Load test it.
Use meter to check the switches.
Check connections and tighten.
Use dielectric grease to protect exposed connections.
Spray contact cleaner into switch (avoid the one that ruins plastic).
Start with these items first.
Learn your Wing, a good factory service manual is a big help, there are maintenance DVD's that 'Show' you how things are done too. Asking others is also helps.
 

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One of the most common "goofs" that we come across in the dealership is loose battery post connections. Bikes, atv's, sleds, all of them. Check them first they must real tight or even a boost won't help you (clicking noise just like a weak battery).
 

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This is to be done only in emergence, repeat only in an emergence. A few years back a riding buddy and I were up in British Columbia, ( Canada). After a lunch stop his 95, 1500 would not even try to start. after checking the battery and the voltage to Solenoid A we found it was not making contact when the starter button was pushed.
I dug out a screw driver, and with the key on and him pressing the start button I shorted across the two large terminal on the Solenoid.
Bingo it started right up. Again if you got to get home you can try this.
Replace the solenoid don't make a habit of this.;)
From the Northwest Corner.
Ron
 

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The diagram shows the two cylindrical A & B Starter Magnets (solenoids or relays). # 8 & 10 on drawing.
 

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You are right Trike Lady:
There are two Large Solenoids ( A ) and ( B ) plus the little ignition relay 6 over in the relay box.
The electrical sequence is:
1.Key on and power is applied to relay box on left side of bike. Which powers up the bike.
2. Press starter button and power is applied to relay #6
3. relay 6 applied activating voltage to solenoid A.
4. Solenoid A closes contacts and applies voltage to two places on Solenoid B. (a) the main starting voltage to one side of the large contacts. (b) it also passes an activating voltage to the coil of Solenoid B.
5. the activating voltage closed the main contact and passes the starting voltage onto the Starter..
6. Release the starter button. Relay 6 de energizes removing power the coil of Solenoid A, which in turn de energizes which in turn removes the energizing voltage to Solenoid B, it's contacts open and remove the voltage to the starter.
Now you all probably know more then you ever wanted to know about the starting sequence.:rolleyes:
From the Northwest Corner
Ron
 

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Could be the starter switch. Let off of it a little and see if it cranks. From the sound of things, it sounds like the A solinoid which is mounted on the front of the battery box.
 
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