I posted a solution to the pulling issue once on this board,
or maybe another board, and all of the old guys gave me a ration of **** over it. It works, but I will type it out again for you since I did not save it the last time I typed out the instructions.
Basically ... the problem can be corrected by a simple procedure. There are TWO approaches to this. One is to loosen the fork tube bolts on the triple tree and allow the fork tubes to "relax to center." The other,
more easily done adjustment is to take out the twist tension in the fork tubes at the axle clamps. We will do this one, since it is FAR easier than working with the four or six triple tree bolts.
Note: It requires
TWO people to do this.
Since the bike is pulling to the right, it means the wheel at rest is aimed ever-so-slightly to the LEFT.
The bike is steering itself out from under you, establishing the lean and causing the bike to "turn" (pull) to the right. Your gentle pressure on the left grip adjusts for the n/100th of a degree of error, forcing the bike to go straight, however, this causes a camber adjustment to the tire, which is causing the uneven wear bar you see.
The misalignment of the fork tubes in relation to the axle is the problem, and it is EASY for an inexperienced assembler to overlook. I'm guessing that they aren't even aware of the potential to
ASSEMBLE a pull into a bike.
Try this:
Get the proper Allen wrench to loosen the anchor caps on your front axle. Remove anything that is in the way of loosening and tightening them, but
DO NOT loosen them yet.
Now, with a friend, pull your bike up to a solid pole, such as a parking meter pole or a flag pole. You can use a small tree, a stairway handrail, or anything else that is thin and stationary. A corner of a brick building also works, but it gives your assistant less room to work because the building is in the way and he cannot get in front of your bike.
Stay seated on the bike. The idea is to apply a slight pressure to the sidewall of the front tire at the
10-o-clock position while your friend first loosens, and then tightens the axle cap bolts. The pressure is applied by attempting to turn the handlebars in the desired direction (opposite the direction of the pull) while the tire against the pole resists the turn of the handlebars. You DO NOT apply your front brake while doing this, as the wheel needs to be able to rotate a tiny bit in relation to the fork tubes during this adjustment. To keep the bike from rolling, put it into gear. You also want to be seated on the bike with your feet on the ground for balance. Your weight will affect the outcome of the adjustment.
You need your tire to be adjusted
slightly to the RIGHT
which means you need ONE of your fork tubes to be tightened to the axle in a different position (degree of rotation). We are only talking about
a fraction of a degree of change here.
Pull the bike up so that the LEFT side of the tire is against the pole and contacts the pole just in front of the fender with the wheel vertical.
Don't lean the bike to make contact with the pole. Keep the bike vertical. You
only want the rubber to touch the pole at the 10-o-clock position, not the fender, and NOT the 9-o-clock position as some would assume. The side pressure applied to the tire cannot be on the same plane as the axle. It must be above or below it in order for the torsion you apply to find its way to the axle via the loosened fork cap. The 10-o-clock tire contact point is best.
Put slight tension on the tire against the pole by putting a turning force on the handlebars. The pole should prevent you from actually turning the steering. Have your friend loosen the two bolts on the RIGHT fork tube. Do not make them
too loose. The idea is to loosen them just enough to allow the axle to rotate in the hole created by the fork tube and the cap in the RIGHT fork tube, with
moderate pressure applied to the handlebars, while still offering some resistance to that rotation of the axle.
The rotation of this side of the axle in relation to the slider tube will probably not be visible to the naked eye. The actual adjustment is measured in the thousandths of an inch, but if you are a techno-geek, you can use a scribe and a magnifying glass to check your results.
Torsion the bars to the left with moderate pressure, and have your friend fully tighten the axle bolts again WHILE the tension is on the steering column. Now release the pressure of the tire against the pole and take the bike for a ride.
If it solves the pulling issue, you're done. If it still pulls to the right but not as much, try it again, this time loosening and then tightening ONLY the LEFT fork tube clamp. If your bike now pulls to the LEFT, you have applied too much twist on the handlebars. You'll have to go back and try again, perhaps twisting to the RIGHT this time with less force, with the pole against the RIGHT side of the tire. It is GUESSWORK, but when you find that
sweet spot where BOTH fork tubes are positioned correctly on each side of the axle, the bike will no longer pull to either side.
There is a twisting torsion on your axle right now, which is causing the pull to the right. It is
created in the assembly process, because Honda apparently doesn't know enough to "relax" the assembly before tightening the axle to the fork tubes. How do you "relax" the assembly? You snug up the bolts and use two rubber mallets to gently whack the wheel on both sides in a drumming fashion. the vibrations will cause the axle to find the sweet spot using the path of least resistance as each fork tube releases the torsion on the axle caused by simple friction.
The easiest way to explain it is, if you KEPT the fork tubes tightly bolted to the axle and pulled the lower fork sliders off of the forks, you'd discover that they are not
exactly parallel. It only take a

th of a degree of misalignment (bolted to the axle) for them to cause this pull. Of course, when the wheel is bolted to the forks, the sliders are already ON the fork tubes and the natural assumption is that the axle will automatically align itself to
relaxed center when you bolt the caps on. Wrong! If a mechanic just puts the wheel into place and tightens the caps, and perhaps leans a shoulder against the tire as he tightens one side, chances are that the bike will pull to one side or the other because the fork tubes were tightened to the axle while a
torsion force was being applied.
My own 2012 also pulls to the right. I have not had the time to do this, but I assure you, I will! My front tire also shows the odd ridge of wear just like your bike does. We have the same problem. I don't believe this is a warranty issue. It is a simple matter of correctly assembling the axle to the fork tubes without incorporating torsion into the formula. The slight torsion cannot be seen with the naked eye, and it is "absorbed" by the fork tube slider bushings. Over time and many miles, if this is not corrected, you will see that the bushings are worn unevenly because they are suffering the brunt of the bad alignment, trying to keep two sliders parallel while they are fighting to be askew, because they are bolted to an axle that will not twist!
Now, for those of you who think I am nuts,
so be it. I am on my 7th wing, and I have corrected
four "pulling" Wings with this exact procedure. My 2012 will be my fifth!