Honda Goldwing Forum banner

1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So for about a month now ive been having intermittent problems with my bike stalling and idling rough. Well I used it about 5 times since the last time I replaced parts (2 weeks ago), and the problem came back. Something new as well. So I thought maybe it's the fuel pump. as I pulled up to the house, I let it sit there and idle. While idling for about 20 sec's the temp gauge moved to H, and the fans never kicked on. I immediately turned it off and could hear the coolant bubbling. Coolant also came out of tubes from underneath the bike. I let it sit while I changed the oil in my yamaha. About 1 hr later I started the bike, and it keeps stalling. It will stay running if I give the throttle a twist. Bike is a 2006 ABS model with 42K miles on it. I bought it with 38K miles. I feel like ive put alot of work into it since I bought it, and it keeps asking for more. Is this normal for an 06 wing to have so much replaced? I feel as if the previous owner neglected this bike, but it ran fine for about 2K miles. Do you guys think its the fuel filter? I was going to take it to a mom and pop shop on tuesday since I am tired of it not running right, and don't want to keep throwing money at it. Wanted to know what others felt could be the culprit if it's a common issue on this bike. Im starting to believe it might be a computer problem since it's intermittent and the fan's didn't kick on today. Thanks guys

I have replaced:
Air filter
Spark plugs
Spark plug wires
Oil change
Shaft fluid changed
Steering bearings (notorious front wobble)
LT front bake pad pad
RT and LT front fork seals
Fuel Charcoal canister
Just put brand new tires on it last week
Headlight and turn signals replaced (a few burnt out)

https://youtu.be/6raGNuoV80o
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
17,173 Posts
Can't guaranty it the same problem but it sounds like it. With out going into a lot of detail, what we found was a poor crimp splice in one of the wire going to the 02 sensor thaat is located just forward of the fuel filler. We trace the wires back into the wire harness on the left side about a foot or so from the sensor. You'll have to remove some tape as you follow the wires to the crimp splice.
We found that with the engine running moving the wires up near the sensor we could make the engine stumble,
replace the crimp slice with a soldered connection
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
LT front bake pad pad??!?? into baking, aren't we? You are not supposed bake while riding. Don't you know?
Lol! That would be the previous owner. It was replaced about 3 months after taking ownership.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,041 Posts
You say you could hear the antifreeze boiling and the fans didn't come on . That is not right. If I remember right on my 06 the fans will come on when the temp gauge goes just past the midway point. And no matter how hot the engine got, and it did peg the temp gunge going up Pikes Peak, it didn't boil. So first make sure the cooling system is topped off and the fans are working. Then I would look for a grounding problem. There is a major ground point just between the alternator and the starter on the engine block that seems to go bad. You will probably have to take the fuel tank out to check it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
I had a 2006 Goldwing. There was a recall because of the temperature gauge rising past normal almost to the H. Then when you took off to ride, the gauge would come back down to normal. There were time when this occurred the bike would stall. They replaced the head, forget which side they replaced. Never had another problem with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Stuck thermostat? Worse, cracked head or bad head gasket maybe? Any updates on your fix DB?
Yes there was a fix at this point. Techdude2000 from GL1800 forums (who is know as the GL1800 DR) said that the wiring and C25 connector could be the blame. He said it’s common that the C25 connector over time causes problems. Because the wing was constantly stalling and had 1 over heating issues because the fans didn’t kick on, made him believe it was an electrical problem. After examining, cleaning, disconnecting/reconnecting the C25 connector, checking for loose wires and the entire harness, I must have triggered something. I let it idle for 1 hr and took 2 20 mile trips with it and had zero problems and the fans kicked on when they needed too. I recently took a trip that was over 7 hours, over 350 miles with my fiancé, in 85 degree weather, with stop and go traffic, and the wing had no problems. So at this point it is fixed. It surely would have shown it’s ugly face after all that. Techdude said if it comes back that the problem is obvious, it’s the sensor loop down the engine or the C25 connector will need to be “re-done”. So to answer your question she is up and running, whether I fixed it permanently or by “accident”. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I rode her Saturday (5th) from Abilene to Ft worth, Dallas, Ft worth and back to Abilene, then a few stops in Abilene. Left at 0630 and was back home by 1930 and over 400 miles. She did not give me any issues once again, (knock on wood), must be the new tires I put on her, lol. Just an update of how she's running. We are talking about 900 miles since the last issue, so far so good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,685 Posts
Yes there was a fix at this point. Techdude2000 from GL1800 forums (who is know as the GL1800 DR) said that the wiring and C25 connector could be the blame. He said it’s common that the C25 connector over time causes problems. Because the wing was constantly stalling and had 1 over heating issues because the fans didn’t kick on, made him believe it was an electrical problem. After examining, cleaning, disconnecting/reconnecting the C25 connector, checking for loose wires and the entire harness, I must have triggered something. I let it idle for 1 hr and took 2 20 mile trips with it and had zero problems and the fans kicked on when they needed too. I recently took a trip that was over 7 hours, over 350 miles with my fiancé, in 85 degree weather, with stop and go traffic, and the wing had no problems. So at this point it is fixed. It surely would have shown it’s ugly face after all that. Techdude said if it comes back that the problem is obvious, it’s the sensor loop down the engine or the C25 connector will need to be “re-done”. So to answer your question she is up and running, whether I fixed it permanently or by “accident”. :)

Glad you're up and rolling again.

What/where is the 'C25 connector'?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Glad you're up and rolling again.

What/where is the 'C25 connector'?
Under the seat, near the relay box. Mine was wrapped up in electrical tape along with the rest of the wiring harness. If you just feel around for it, you will find it.
 

Attachments

·
Administrator
Joined
·
26,311 Posts
One thing I really don't like about all this new technology bundled into tight places is the possibility that wires can get pinched or cracked and where do you start in the gremlin search? A shorted circuit can cause ridiculous problems if it goes sideways. The picture is when I replaced the air filter on my '09, and in the process, I discovered a bolt end had worn through the protective rubber coating on the wire harness. Lord knows what that would have shorted out in the middle of nowhere....
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
17,173 Posts
Ok; I haven't seen this for myself, but one of my 1800 riding buddy, I think it's an 2004 was telling us about the wires feeding the lights in his trunk lid braking because of the way they are attached, flecking every time you open and close the lid. He recommended taking them out of the clip on the lid. Like I said I haven't seen it myself..
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,999 Posts
Ok; I haven't seen this for myself, but one of my 1800 riding buddy, I think it's an 2004 was telling us about the wires feeding the lights in his trunk lid braking because of the way they are attached, flecking every time you open and close the lid. He recommended taking them out of the clip on the lid. Like I said I haven't seen it myself..
I had that shortly after I bought my 09. The remote key chain fob wouldn't work, and it ended up being a broken wire where the wires flex on the trunk lid.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Ok; I haven't seen this for myself, but one of my 1800 riding buddy, I think it's an 2004 was telling us about the wires feeding the lights in his trunk lid braking because of the way they are attached, flecking every time you open and close the lid. He recommended taking them out of the clip on the lid. Like I said I haven't seen it myself..
There’s no trunk light wires in the hinge harnesses except for the spoiler light brake light circuit, but the trunk lock control unit has its wires running through the right side hinge area and it shares the ground circuit with all of the rear lights on the bike. A common failure point for the rear ground circuits is a bad connection that develops in the gray 14 pin connector under the seat, near the trunk. The solid green wire will get loose in the connector and start generating heat until it melts the connector and completely disconnects itself and possibly damage the connector to affect other wires running through it. The fix for it is to solder a permanent jumper across the connector on the green wire, bypassing the bad connection. Be aware there are two large gray connectors under there, one has only 12 wires and it’s not the problem child, the 14 wire one is the connector of interest. This is a common failure of the 01-08 year models. Towing a trailer without an isolator in the lighting circuits will accelerate the failure.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
515 Posts
Yes there was a fix at this point. Techdude2000 from GL1800 forums (who is know as the GL1800 DR) said that the wiring and C25 connector could be the blame. He said it’s common that the C25 connector over time causes problems. Because the wing was constantly stalling and had 1 over heating issues because the fans didn’t kick on, made him believe it was an electrical problem. After examining, cleaning, disconnecting/reconnecting the C25 connector, checking for loose wires and the entire harness, I must have triggered something. I let it idle for 1 hr and took 2 20 mile trips with it and had zero problems and the fans kicked on when they needed too. I recently took a trip that was over 7 hours, over 350 miles with my fiancé, in 85 degree weather, with stop and go traffic, and the wing had no problems. So at this point it is fixed. It surely would have shown it’s ugly face after all that. Techdude said if it comes back that the problem is obvious, it’s the sensor loop down the engine or the C25 connector will need to be “re-done”. So to answer your question she is up and running, whether I fixed it permanently or by “accident”. :)
AS an Automotive Master tech I keep telling people I just fixed it by accident:ClapHappy::WellDone:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Have the ECU scanned for codes. Had the same problem but my FI light came on. Multiple codes came up.( 2003 Gl1800 ) It ran fine while cruising. Stop a a light and it wanted to stall. They are replacing the ECU now. It tested bad. Haven't got the bike back yet. Seven hundred + for the ECU plus what ever else they had to do. Hope the hell it fixes it.... $$$$$.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,396 Posts
Welcome to the forum Lary and I hope this fix solves your issues. It is unusual for wings to break down, but sometimes it happens.
 
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
Top