Please HELP me, Battery not charging.
1 - 20 of 37 Posts
Joined
·
15,238 Posts
you can have the stator and voltage regulator checked
Joined
·
692 Posts
... HOWDY ... NEW BATTERIES ONLY HAVE WHAT IS CALLED A SURFACE CHARGE WHICH IS JUST ENOUGH TO GET A FEW STARTS OUT OF IT AND THE MOTORCYCLE CHARGING SYSTEM IS SUPPOSED TO FINISH CHARGING THE BATT. ... JUST BECAUSE THE BATT. IS NEW DOESN'T MEAN IT'S GOOD ... WHAT YOU MIGHT DO IS TAKE THE BATTERY OUT AND PUT IT ON A CHARGER (not a trickle charger) AND TOP OFF THE BATT. ... ALSO IF THE BATT. IS LOW ON ELECTROLITE / WATER THAT WILL HINDER THE CHARGING ... DO YOU HAVE A VOLTAGE DISPLAY ON THE BIKE ??? IF SO IT SHOULD BE READING 13.5 - 14.0 VOLTS ... IF NO VOLT DISPLAY TAKE A MULTIMETER SET IT FOR LOW VOLTAGE AND PLACE THE PROBS ON THE CORRECT + AND NEG. BATT. POSTS WITH MOTOR RUNNING AND THAT WILL TELL YOU IF THE SYSTEM IS CHARGING ... MOST AUTO PARTS STORES WILL CHECK THE VOLTAGE FOR YOU ... ALSO "NEVER NEVER" JUMP START YOU'RE BIKE OFF A CAR THAT IS RUNNING ... TO MANY AMPS AND THAT WILL BLOW RELAYS AND FUSES AND BE CAREFUL JUMPING WITH THE CAR MOTOR OFF ... HAPPY TRAILS ...
i also had a problem with my 84 1200 with charging. checked regulator and stator and both were good. ended uip finding a bad connection for the battery to the regulator .the connection was just behind the battery on the left side. it gets its connection on the top of the relay that has the fuse link on it. Shouldalso mention the bike is designed to charge only above 1500 rpm
Joined
·
691 Posts
Alex
Most mc batts require you to add the electrolite from a container in the box. Let it activate for about an hour then charge it as Ron suggested. Just connect a voltt meter across the battery. Should read about 12V. Start the bike and the voltage should go up to about 14V for a while then drop when the battery is re-charged from the starting process.
Most mc batts require you to add the electrolite from a container in the box. Let it activate for about an hour then charge it as Ron suggested. Just connect a voltt meter across the battery. Should read about 12V. Start the bike and the voltage should go up to about 14V for a while then drop when the battery is re-charged from the starting process.
Joined
·
2,835 Posts
Hate to bring bad new but most all 1200 have bad stators. If it isn't gone yet it will be, (The stator basically is the alternator), The motor has to come out to replace it. There is a plug that comes from the stator next to the battery and sometimes that get over heated and melts, you might check that first. I sure hope it's not the stator but on a 1200 It's more likely than not. I had the one on my 85 go out on the way from the Honda after making a deal on my new 92, It cost me about $1,000.00 to have it replaced so I could sell the bike.
Joined
·
123 Posts
Yeah, my '84 GL1200A is currently in a shop 400 miles from home getting the stator replaced - estimate is $1200. There apparently is an alternative if the problem is the stator. There's an aftermarket external generator kit that goes on the front side of the engine - I think it's about $500. Google it.
Joined
·
470 Posts
LTD Stator?
I just read somewhere that the 1985 LTD had a "bigger" stator.
I took that to mean higher capacity; Does anyone know the answer?
I do know while browsing on ebay, there are separate listings for 1200's and the LTD. Also the price is higher for the LTD's.
If it is a higher capacity...would it still fit into a non LTD 1200?
If the answer to both is yes; Why wouldn't you replace the stator
( if you already had to) with the higher capacity unit?
It kinda makes sense to me that it would be more powerful, since there are extra loads on the LTD, like electric fuel injection...
( more power needed) etc??
Anybody know???
I just read somewhere that the 1985 LTD had a "bigger" stator.
I took that to mean higher capacity; Does anyone know the answer?
I do know while browsing on ebay, there are separate listings for 1200's and the LTD. Also the price is higher for the LTD's.
If it is a higher capacity...would it still fit into a non LTD 1200?
If the answer to both is yes; Why wouldn't you replace the stator
( if you already had to) with the higher capacity unit?
It kinda makes sense to me that it would be more powerful, since there are extra loads on the LTD, like electric fuel injection...
( more power needed) etc??
Anybody know???
Joined
·
470 Posts
LTD stator?
After a little digging; I found out the LTD~SE-i puts out 476W.
The standard on other 1200's puts out 360W.
If or when I need to replace mine....I'm going for the higher output! They must be the same as far as fitting..I've posted that question in a couple of places..no replies yet...
After a little digging; I found out the LTD~SE-i puts out 476W.
The standard on other 1200's puts out 360W.
If or when I need to replace mine....I'm going for the higher output! They must be the same as far as fitting..I've posted that question in a couple of places..no replies yet...
Joined
·
15,238 Posts
you'll have to modify the housing to use the higher out put stator. the fuel injected wings had the ho stators to power the fuel injectionAfter a little digging; I found out the LTD~SE-i puts out 476W.
The standard on other 1200's puts out 360W.
If or when I need to replace mine....I'm going for the higher output! They must be the same as far as fitting..I've posted that question in a couple of places..no replies yet...
and are just as prone to falure as the 360w stator. there is a "poorboy" kit to put an external alternator on a 1200 wing ( i've seen them used on 1000 and 1100 wings too ). most can get the kit and an alternator for much less than 500 assuming thet you do the conversion yourself
Joined
·
470 Posts
Stator?
detdrbuzzard, thanks for the reply; Can you tell me how/what is required to modify the housing? I can see by the pics of the FI stator that it has two sets of wires & plugs comming out of the case as opposed to the regular stator that has only one plug. I'm assuming the second set goes right to (or powers) the FI circuit. If that is true could that extra plug/wires be used to directly power the coils on a non FI motor?....
detdrbuzzard, thanks for the reply; Can you tell me how/what is required to modify the housing? I can see by the pics of the FI stator that it has two sets of wires & plugs comming out of the case as opposed to the regular stator that has only one plug. I'm assuming the second set goes right to (or powers) the FI circuit. If that is true could that extra plug/wires be used to directly power the coils on a non FI motor?....
Easy to check
The charging system is very easy to check but could be difficult top fix. At the rear of the left side of the engine there will be 3 wires that lead to a plug beside the battery. Unplug that and with a ohm meter there should be continuity between the three terminals from the engine but not to ground. If this is as above your stator is OK. Then your problem will either be the rectifier under the left side of the false tank or simply a bad connection. More often the stator is bad and the engine must come out to replace it. I just changed mine 2 weeks ago. Good luck
The charging system is very easy to check but could be difficult top fix. At the rear of the left side of the engine there will be 3 wires that lead to a plug beside the battery. Unplug that and with a ohm meter there should be continuity between the three terminals from the engine but not to ground. If this is as above your stator is OK. Then your problem will either be the rectifier under the left side of the false tank or simply a bad connection. More often the stator is bad and the engine must come out to replace it. I just changed mine 2 weeks ago. Good luck
altanator retro kit
I to have a problim with charging the clymer shop manule gives the info for testing you must start with the engin off and unplug the fitting to the left of battery (it has 3 yellow wires) start the bike and hold the R.P.M.'s it 3000 and check the volts across all 3 leads aney thing under 50 volts A.C. is a bad rotor and the motor must be removed to fix it!! I just foud a complete alternator retro kit on E-Bay for $575.00 I think it might be the fix I"m looking for.
I to have a problim with charging the clymer shop manule gives the info for testing you must start with the engin off and unplug the fitting to the left of battery (it has 3 yellow wires) start the bike and hold the R.P.M.'s it 3000 and check the volts across all 3 leads aney thing under 50 volts A.C. is a bad rotor and the motor must be removed to fix it!! I just foud a complete alternator retro kit on E-Bay for $575.00 I think it might be the fix I"m looking for.
Mike701
I was tempted to buy the alternator retro kit, it has a much higher out put and would be much easier to repair but I was worried about water and road dirt getting in to the windings brushes ETC. I decided to stick with the OEM stator as the last one lasted 12 years. It was a lot of work but in the long run I believe it will stnad up beter
I was tempted to buy the alternator retro kit, it has a much higher out put and would be much easier to repair but I was worried about water and road dirt getting in to the windings brushes ETC. I decided to stick with the OEM stator as the last one lasted 12 years. It was a lot of work but in the long run I believe it will stnad up beter
alternator rotor
I just bought the cycle with the bad rotor in it !The guy I bought it from had just had a new one put in 06 and had not road it much, so I got a fair price on it.So the new one only lasted about3 1/2 years.The retro kit I'm looking at fits behind the rad. The bike is an LTD with murels on the bags a hitch and lots of drag goodys on it its what I wanted for a very long time!
I just bought the cycle with the bad rotor in it !The guy I bought it from had just had a new one put in 06 and had not road it much, so I got a fair price on it.So the new one only lasted about3 1/2 years.The retro kit I'm looking at fits behind the rad. The bike is an LTD with murels on the bags a hitch and lots of drag goodys on it its what I wanted for a very long time!
Joined
·
38 Posts
The alternator conversion is fairly easy. You need a alternator off a chevy sprint, or like model auto, have it converted to 1 wire hookup at your local alternator shop. the right size pulley for the crank can be found in about any junkyard to use a regular v auto belt. cut a spacer for behind the pulley from tubing add a washer, trim the timing cover cases to make room for the back of the pully and spacer. We did my friends 84 for a total cost of 75 dollars two years ago. Still runs the same belt, and he rides his bike almost constantly year round. If you cant weld or fab a bit the cost might go up to 90 dollars to get the slotted mount fabricated for you and welded on. the back mount is an existing bolt.
Joined
·
38 Posts
You can use either a three four or five inch diameter pulley. My buddies has a three just like on the alternator. Depends on if you want much charge at idle or only when your revving up a little and riding. the three wont put out much until about 14oo rpm then it goes to full charge. the four will charge more at idle the five even more at idle because its spinning the alternator faster. the regulator is built into the alternator so it does away with the stator and regulator both when you switch to this set up.
As far as the crank size ill have to get with my friend and see what it is. I cant remember off the top of my head. Actually as long as it doesnt have to fit very snug. When you tighten the crank nut the pressure from that is what keeps it from spinning on the crankshaft not the inner diameter of the pulley. Ill get with m friend cuz I know he has the measurements we took wrote down somewhere. I do know he as always said he wished hed went with the larger pulley that would charge at idle. Not sure why because unless you leave your bike idling for half an hour or more it wouldnt weaken the battery but that is just him. Ill check the measurements and let ya know
As far as the crank size ill have to get with my friend and see what it is. I cant remember off the top of my head. Actually as long as it doesnt have to fit very snug. When you tighten the crank nut the pressure from that is what keeps it from spinning on the crankshaft not the inner diameter of the pulley. Ill get with m friend cuz I know he has the measurements we took wrote down somewhere. I do know he as always said he wished hed went with the larger pulley that would charge at idle. Not sure why because unless you leave your bike idling for half an hour or more it wouldnt weaken the battery but that is just him. Ill check the measurements and let ya know
1 - 20 of 37 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!