If by top you mean on the one on the hand bar. It does not have anything to do with the rear brake. If you have drawn fluid out of the rear brake you've probable pulled air into the rear reservior and brake system. It's locate on the right side of the bike behind the panel. if I'm not mistaken.
I bled all the fluid from the rear reservoir now when i go to bleed the rear brales i used to get fluid to purge from the zert after charging it with the lever than holding it down and unscre4wing the zert a little bit, but there was no pressure building up in the lever.
now however i cant get any fluid to purge and the reservoir is full, will the syringe and airline tubing method work for me?!
A Vacuum pump, like a Mighty Vac, might be what you need to draw the fluid from the reservoir into the system. You have to be very careful not to let the reservoir fluid get low. Once it get to the hole in the bottom you are going to pull air into the system.
Also If I'm not mistaken it is recommended that you bleed the front brake first that is tied to the rear system, then the rear.
Again do not let the fluid level get to the bottom.
still nothing guys. i cant suck the oil out with the line. i put it over the nipple and even with the bolt all the way tight i can still suck air thru the hose mixed with a little oil. does this mean there is a leak down the line. any suggestions?
Hi first things first, do you have plenty of meat left on the brake pads? If so you may have a collapsed flexible hose try bleeding your brakes at the connection before the flexible lines. If you are able to bleed the lines at these points and not at the bleeder you may have as mentioned a collapsed hose or too much garbage built up in the calipers. The other possibility is that your front and rear brakes are interconnected and may require a special bleed procedure I am still highly medicated at the moment so I would only confuse you more.
I have an 87 gl1200 Aspencade and have had a simular issue with my front break. I found out that the P.O. strpped the nipple and used vice grips to tighten it. I was forced to replace it in the middle of a 3k road trip. I would sugest replacing the nipples and using a vacume pump to bleed. Also the right front break and the rear break are liked to the foot pedal. This means you need to bleed the right front break then the rear break. make sure that pump the foot pedal not the hand break because that is connected to the left front break system. Also when you bleed the system use some tefflon plummers tape on the bleeder valve three or four clean wraps, wraped in dirrection of the tightening the threads this helps alot to keep the air from being pulled in.. for some reason the gl1200 bleaders let ait seep in through the threads when bleeding.
I just got an order from "Speed Bleeder". These bleeders allow one person to very easily bleed any brake system, they install in place of the factory bleeders. They have an internal ball & spring..you crack them open a 1/4 turn..attach a bag..they sell that too, then pump away..making sure the reservoir does not empty.
When no more air....( or old fluid ) comes out..your done!
Just tighten the bleeder till next time you need it. BTW, these bleeders come with thread sealant already on them, the place I got them from says that sealer is good for 6~7 bleeds..that's a lot & would take some time to use up, they also come with rubber "caps" to keep out the dirt. I got 16 of them!..lol.
I'm going to install them on my 3 wings..including the clutch slaves..and on my PT Cruiser that has 4 wheel disks. Hope this helps you!
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