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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Went out this morning and went to crank it to head to work. It cranks, but will not fire. I called the shop, and they say to bring it in. (Of course) I guess I get a neighbor to help me put it on my trailer (The first time on a trailer) and drop it off in the morning. :mad: The yellow engine symbol flashes. The expert at the shop seemed to make it sound that that is significate somehow. It turned 2 years old last week, and has just under 35K miles on it. Just last year, a Honda boat motor was 3 weeks out of warrenty and totally fell apart. I hope this isn't because of an engineering shortcut like the boat motor.:confused: I have had several people complain that they felt Honda is cutting corners on numerous products. Hopefully not the motorcycles.:cool:
 

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I hope your problem is minor and that it can be fixed quickly. Just a thought, if your planning to keep your wing for more than 3 years, you might consider an extended warranty if you don't already have one. You can get one for about $500. Seems like you put lots of miles on the wing and this would cover major parts for seven years.

Let us know what the outcome of your problem. Ride safe...
 

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If the warning light is on, there is something amiss for sure. Whether it is anything difficult or not, the computer diagnostic will likely determine the fault. It should however be NOTHING that your standard manufacturer's warranty won't cover. I have to second TWW's thoghts on the extension coverage though, I'm doing it on mine and I haven't had a burp on it. It's far less expensive on your side of the border but one costly repair in the next 4 years and it's more than paid for itself. If I never need it, the cost per year is minimal so I look at it as cheap insurance.
I remember the issue with the boat motor too. I have heard (just talking with people in Florida and other vacation destinations on the chuck) that there have been corrosion issues with Honda outboards in salt water, but I have no idea how many or the circumstances. To sit through the training courses they make us do, you'd think they could survice a nuclear blast and not suffer:rolleyes:.
 

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Hope it isn't anything major, let us know. I too have a 2010 that I purchased in November 2009 and just went over 34,000 miles. I did the extended (7 year) warrenty as I was hoping to put a lot of miles on this bike. A couple minor things so far and never an issue getting them fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Got home last night. Got my trailer on the car, and asked a neighbor to help me push it around the house and up on the trailer. Stuck the key in and it started just like normal. Drove it around on the trailer. Dropped it at the dealer. No word yet... I hope the error code in there indicates something.:eek: I hate it when my baby is sick!:(
 

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Good luck with your wing.
 

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I'm thinking an intermittent issue.
Possible dirty, corroded, loose, bad connection at power or ground.
If it flashed a specific pattern it would give you an indication of what is at fault.
If you live near the coast line, you may want to check connectors and lightly coat the pins and sockets with dielectric grease.
 

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Here's the FI Chart.

If you shut the bike off the error code is lost - sort of. It will be retained in the ECM but it is harder to get out. If the bike stops and the will not restart you can get the FI light to flash the error code by cranking the engine for 10 seconds. The FI light will then flash the error code.

Long Blink = 10 Short Blink = 1
i.e. long long long short short short = 33 check error code 33

Number of MIL blinks .Symptoms
.Cause

0 No blinks • Engine does not start

• Open circuit in the power input and ground wires of the ECM: • Faulty bank angle sensor
• Open circuit in bank angle sensor related wires: • Faulty FI IGN relay: • Open circuit in FI IGN relay related wires
• Faulty engine stop switch: • Open circuit in engine stop switch related wires: • Faulty ECM: • Blown FI IGN fuse (20 A)
• Blown ST. KILL fuse (10 A):

0 No blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open circuit in MIL wire: • Faulty combination meter: • Faulty ECM


0 Stays lit • Engine operates normally
• Short circuit in service check connector wire: • Short circuit in MIL wire: • Faulty ECM


1 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected MAP sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in MAP sensor wire: • Faulty MAP sensor


7 Blinks • Hard to start at a low temperature (ECM controls using preset value; coolant temperature: 85° C/185° F)
• Loose or poorly connected ECT sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in ECT sensor wire: • Faulty ECT sensor


8 Blinks • Poor engine response when operating the throttle quickly (ECM controls using preset value; throttle opening: 0° )
• Loose or poorly connected TP sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in TP sensor wire: • Faulty TP sensor


9 Blinks • Engine operates normally (ECM controls using preset value; intake air temperature: 28° C/82° F)
• Loose or poorly connected IAT sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in TP sensor wire: • Faulty IAT sensor


10 Blinks • Engine operates normally at low altitude
• Engine idles roughly at a high altitude (ECM controls using preset value; barometric pressure: 760 mm Hg/1,013 hPa)
• Loose or poorly connected BARO sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in BARO sensor wire: • Faulty BARO sensor


11 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected vehicle speed sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in vehicle speed sensor wire: • Faulty vehicle speed sensor


12 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 1 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 1 injector wire: • Faulty No. 1 injector


13 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 2 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 2 injector wire: • Faulty No. 2 injector


14 No blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 3 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 3 injector wire: • Faulty No. 3 injector


15 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 4 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 4 injector wire: • Faulty No. 4 injector



16 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 5 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 5 injector wire: • Faulty No. 5 injector


17 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 6 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 6 injector wire: • Faulty No. 6 injector


18 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected camshaft position sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in camshaft position sensor wire: • Faulty camshaft position sensor


19 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected ignition pulse generator connector:
• Open or short circuit in ignition pulse generator wire: • Faulty ignition pulse generator


21 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in right O2 sensor wire: • Faulty right O2 sensor


22 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in left O2 sensor wire: • Faulty left O2 sensor


23 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in right O2 sensor heater wire: • Faulty right O2 sensor


24 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in left O2 sensor heater wire: • Faulty left O2 sensor


25 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected right knock sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in right knock sensor wire: • Faulty right knock sensor


26 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected left knock sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in left knock sensor wire: • Faulty left knock sensor

29 Blinks • Engine stalls, hard to start, rough idling
• Loose or poorly connected idle air control (IAC) valve connector: • Open or short circuit in IAC valve wire: • Faulty idle air control valve


33 Blinks • ECM does not hold the self diagnostic data
• Faulty E2-PROM in ECM • Engine operates normally


41 No blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected connector in gear position switch related circuits
• Open or short circuit in gear position switch wires: • Faulty gear position switch: • Faulty clutch switch: • Faulty side stand switch

...................

Engine cranks but won’t start
• No fuel in tank, • No fuel to injector, – Clogged fuel filter, – Pinched or clogged fuel feed hose, – Pinched or clogged fuel tank breather tube, – Faulty fuel pump, – Faulty fuel pump circuits, • Intake air leak, • Contaminated / deteriorated fuel, • Faulty fuel injector, • Idle air control valve stuck closed, • No spark at plug Faulty ignition system

Engine stalls, hard to start, rough idling
• Restricted fuel feed hose, • Contaminated/deteriorated fuel, • Intake air leak, • Faulty idle air control valve, • Restricted fuel tank breather tube, • Misadjusted idle adjusting screw, • Faulty ignition system

Afterburn when engine braking is used
• Faulty pulse secondary air injection (PAIR) system, – Faulty PAIR control solenoid valve, – Faulty PAIR check valve, – Clogged hose of the PAIR system, • Faulty ignition system

Backfiring or misfiring during acceleration
• Faulty ignition system

Poor performance drive-ability and poor fuel economy
• Pinched or clogged fuel feed hose, • Faulty pressure regulator, • Faulty ignition system

Had to find this on the Internet.
 

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Thanks, I printed that out for future reference. Although I hope to never need it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Holy Moley Trike Lady..... I hope they can figure something out. Sounds like it will be a lot harder that I imagined. I didn't pay any attention to the idiot light (The right most one that is yellow and looks like an engine) except to notice it was flashing as I was cranking the engine over, but it wouldn't run. Later(after sitting all day) when it did start, it was as smooth and normal both starting and running.
 

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From what you described its an intermittent problem.
If first thing in the morning was a bit damp, it may have created a 'No start'.
Later in the day it became dry and the moisture left and then the bike started.
A component or connection may be getting moisture inside.
 

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hey Stevemaoly! My 2009 with 16K has decided not to start 3 times in 3 years. Then, it would start up maybe the next day. Last time, it was 3 days! When it happens, it spins strong, just doesn't pop at all. It sits in the garage, so no moisture problems obvious.
Did you ever find out what the problem was on yours? I just can't depend on it now!
 

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Steve, this could be crank position sensor or an ignition pulse generator. I've heard of the CPS being intermittent (fro a while, then it craps out completely).

The number of blinks is important to diagnostic efforts. The dealer should be able to recover the last fault, and that should give them an idea of where to look.

If you have an issue again, and the light is blinking, count the blinks right away. They will give you a good idea of what's going on. There is a procedure listed to recover the codes after the fact.

=Dave=
Old Dog Moto Works
 

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hey Stevemaoly! My 2009 with 16K has decided not to start 3 times in 3 years. Then, it would start up maybe the next day. Last time, it was 3 days! When it happens, it spins strong, just doesn't pop at all. It sits in the garage, so no moisture problems obvious.
Did you ever find out what the problem was on yours? I just can't depend on it now!

If you hold the throttle wide open and crank for 10 seconds it should recover the last code if any is present. That might give you an idea as to what happened. (maybe..)

=Dave=
Old Dog Moto Works
 

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2009 doesn't start

If you hold the throttle wide open and crank for 10 seconds it should recover the last code if any is present. That might give you an idea as to what happened. (maybe..)

=Dave=
Old Dog Moto Works
Thanks Dave. If I start with the kill button on, it won't even spin. Starter with the kill button off, and the bike will start before 10 seconds. Unless I have to wait till it doesn't start again? This bike has become annoying.
thanks again Dave
 

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Holding the throttle wide open while cranking cuts the fuel to the engine, so no start. This is designed to allow you to clear a flooded motor, but it also lets you recover the codes.
 

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2009 doesn't start

Holding the throttle wide open while cranking cuts the fuel to the engine, so no start. This is designed to allow you to clear a flooded motor, but it also lets you recover the codes.
Holding the throttle open cuts the fuel? At my age, you don't learn to many new things. Or maybe I do, but I probably just forget what I learned. I'll certainly try that, and see if I can pull up a code.

Thanks a lot Dave!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Sorry it took so long to update this ordeal.
The shop couldn't find a fault, and couldn't duplicate the problem. I have since then put another 2+ thousand miles or more. Once, It wouldn't start again. I turned it off, let it sit a 60 seconds, tried it again, and once again, the engine turned over, but no start. Repeated that again, Off for 60 seconds and back on, and it fired right up. It hasn't done it again since.
It now has over 40K miles on it. The problem is SO intermittent, I doubt if anyone can figure anything out.:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I didn't try to recover any codes, but I would expect the mechanic at the bike shop tried. He has a lot of experience on Wings, considering for years that is all he worked on. And to answer another post, of course I checked the kill switch. Tried and tried to make it do anything that would be considered intermittent. The mechanic said he checked it too for loose connection or anything.
 
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