Honda Goldwing Forum banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Banned
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
bike sat for a week. upon startup, a new engine noise that sounded
kinda like valves. Noise went away in 3 or 4 mins. We rode 75 miles
and stopped for a 1/2 hour. Upon startup ticky/tick is back but went away in a couple mins. and we rode home. After sitting for 3 days,
I started bike today, noise was there but DID NOT go away.
Oil is fresh GN-4 10/40 and on the upper mark, filter is fresh OEM Honda. Bike is a 98 SE,new to me 2 years now. Less than 5000
miles on the bike
Noise seems to be on the left side. Using a wooden dowl, it is not coming from alternator. Help Please.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
24,630 Posts
It's "possible" that the valves need adjusting and valve adjustments on the 1500 are screw and lock nut method. Intake clearance: 0.15 mm/0.006"; Exhaust 0.22mm/0.009". If the mileage is correct (5000?) it does seem unlikely that the valves should need adjusting, but anythings possible. After 13-14 years I'd be leary of the timing belts as well due to the effect of time and lack of use, not necessarily related to the ticking but you don't want the belts to fail and pile up your entire valve train. Another possibility is improper lubrication of the top end; again, lack of use can do bad things to an engine's internal systems.
Neither valve adjustment or belts are a major undertaking, but I'd start there. As to the lubrication, there could be some sludge blocking a small oil channel or such.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
365 Posts
Could this be an exhaust leak at the heads? I know that makes that kind of tick~tick sound.
Not to get TOO far off topic,:D I'm thinking of flushing my oil by adding a half can of sea Foam to the crankcase & running it to operating temps, then changing the oil...a couple of times. I want to use a cheaper oil because it won't be in there long.
Should I be concerned about friction modifiers in regular oil? Should I just stick with the proper oil? It's a new to me '88 1500 & I'm doing all the fluids, cooling system flush,brake fluids, timing belts, a trigger wheel..etc.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
15,167 Posts
It's "possible" that the valves need adjusting and valve adjustments on the 1500 are screw and lock nut method. Intake clearance: 0.15 mm/0.006"; Exhaust 0.22mm/0.009". If the mileage is correct (5000?) it does seem unlikely that the valves should need adjusting, but anythings possible. After 13-14 years I'd be leary of the timing belts as well due to the effect of time and lack of use, not necessarily related to the ticking but you don't want the belts to fail and pile up your entire valve train. Another possibility is improper lubrication of the top end; again, lack of use can do bad things to an engine's internal systems.
Neither valve adjustment or belts are a major undertaking, but I'd start there. As to the lubrication, there could be some sludge blocking a small oil channel or such.
you sure about that? i thought gl 1100's had screw and locknut valve adjustment and 1500 wings were hydraluic
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
365 Posts
I'm just looking in my Honda '88 service manual that I got 4 days ago..printed in April 1988, it says the hydraulic valve adjuster shim selection;
Shim the hydraulic valve adjusters when any of the following parts are replaced:
cylinder head/camshaft holder
camshaft
valve/valve seat (refaced)
rocker arm/rocker arm shaft
So, I would say hydraulic is what they are. Unless they were changed in later years.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
24,630 Posts
Maintenance schedule GL1500 shows valve clearance inspection every 12,000 miles or 20,000km.
Section 3 (maintenance) page 7+. Adjustments are screw and locknut; adjustment screw on the top of the valve assembly and the lock nut is just below it. Same as earlier models, the piston must be at TDC and then you insert the guage between the stem and the adjustiong screw. To adjust, loosen the locknut and then turn the adjusting screw until there is just a slight drag on the feeler guage. Tighten the locknut to specified torque (17 ft/lb) and move on to the next specified cylinder and so on until done.
As far as I can remember, the 1200 was the only engines that were hydraulically adjusted (no hands on adjusting).
Specs I quoted are out of the '97-'99 model GL1500 service manual since it is a '98 SE mentioned.
GL1200 engines/maintenance sections show no valve adjustment or maintenance requirements in the service manual.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
365 Posts
I guess there was a change at some point, my manual shows no lock or screw..says hydraulic adjusters; This is interesting, Now I'm curious as to when there was a change?:confused:
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,612 Posts
This is interesting, I pulled my 1997 GL1500 Honda Factory service manual and the Clymer and Clymer mentions 4 different hydraulic tappet shim sizes for 1998 to 2000, this is used when you change the cam shafts or other valve train components. My 97 Honda manual makes no mention of valve adjustments at 12,000 miles.
Will scan the pages and post them.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
15,167 Posts
actually the 1200 wings valves can be adjusted too, it takes the excess slack out the lifter and thanks for the info on the 1500 wing
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,612 Posts
I have scanned the pages from the factory manual and they make no mention of an adjustment @ 12,000 miles. But they do show the hydraulic tappets and a shim change when valve train components are replaced.
 

Attachments

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,612 Posts
The last 2 pages.
If this manual is incorrect I need to throw it away.
The last page makes no mention of a 12,000 mile valve adjustment.
Please post a corrected page.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
24,630 Posts
what's strange, is when I call up the 97-99 1500, the valve clearance specs are there; previous 1500's are not showing valve clearances or intervals, nada :confused: Now my online manuals designate the '97-'99 GL1500 as a 'C' but I seriously doubt there would be a designation of a 'Canadian' (if that is what the 'c' stands for, but I doubt that too) model that would have a different valve train than a US model would. Looks like I have a question for someone in the .ca tech dept... Idon't ever recall doing anything with the valves on my 1200, but I do remember the spec sheets stating hydraulic valves, and the advertising saying "no more valve adjustments". Worked for me after all the valve tuning I did on my 750's (well my mechanic did anyway), like every 12,000 km or so.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
12,272 Posts
I'm cornfused. :confused::confused:












My manuals only state hydraulic.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
365 Posts
My 1988 Honda factory shop manual shows exactly the same thing, with one exception, the rocker arms don't have needle bearings as shown in your #5 pic, they have an eccentric spindle.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
16,737 Posts
My 93 shop manual makes no mention of Valve adjustment, only Valve guide replacement, and Valve seat inspection and refacing.
Changed my water pump the other day and it quited the engine noise some. (172,000 plus miles on this engine and never adjusted the valves).
Also change the water pump on a buddies 95 it was making an awful noise.
From the Northwest Corner
Ron
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
15,167 Posts
My 1988 Honda factory shop manual shows exactly the same thing, with one exception, the rocker arms don't have needle bearings as shown in your #5 pic, they have an eccentric spindle.
needle bearings came on '93 and up wings
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
365 Posts
Thanks detdrbuzzard; I wonder if they could be retro fitted?:confused:
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
12,272 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,982 Posts
I'm cornfused. :confused::confused:
My manuals only state hydraulic.
Yeah! WTF? You guys are supposed to be HELPING this gentleman!:LaughHard:

I'd just put the bike on its centerstand and remove the valve covers per the torque pattern recommended and LOOK at what's there, either set bolts with lock nuts or none, which means hydraulic lifters. But that's just me....

There's another possibility if they're hydraulic lifters, something I learned on the "other forum". Hydraulic lifters can partially collapse and/or stick due to foreign matter getting in them. They can be cleaned and pumped back up. The procedure is on the Saunders Goldwing Forum.

And, of course, my first path to a solution is always the simplest. Run 6oz. of Seafoam in your crankcase for 100-200 miles of nice warm road riding, drain the oil hot/warm, and put in whatever Amsoil Bob recommends for that Wing. For my '85 GL1200 it was 10W-40 Amsoil full synthetic after I did the same SeaFoam procedure and I'm very pleased with how he's running.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top