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From the service manual

If the neutral indicator does not light with the key on and transmission in neutral then pull the combination meter and check the black/white wire for battery voltage with the key on. This will be the number 2 pin with black/white wire. Test that pin to ground with volt meter.

If you don't have voltage there it all points to the reverse system. Or connectors.

Faulty reverse position switch

Faulty reverse shift switch.

Open circuit in the black/white and the black/red wires between the combination meter and reverse shift switch.

Open circuit in the black/brown wire between the reverse shift switch and reverse position switch.

Loose our poor contact of related connectors


If you do have voltage there, then:

Turn ignition switch to off.

Check continuity between the light green/red wire of the combination meter gray connector and ground.

Continuity yes:. Replace the meter assembly

Continuity no:. Faulty gear position sensor

Or open circuit in the light green/ red wire between the combination meter and the gear position sensor.


Or loose our poor contact in related connectors.



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No
I suspect one of the switches in that assembly.

Contact cleaner or WD40? lol
Now it's making more sense.

The reverse system / switching is looking more like the culprit.

Maybe just a good cleaning of the switches could do it.


It'd be nice if that's it.

My luck would be much deeper.


Contact cleaner is a good start.

I'd be interested to learn what becomes of this since mine is the same year

Guy



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how much did that assembly cost you? Did you replace it yourself, if so, how hard was it?

The switch assembly, if I remember correctly, was ~$180.00. I did do the work myself, see the pictures as to how involved it was. (For me anyway.)
 

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Discussion Starter #26
took the assembly apart, sprayed it down real good with contact cleaner, then douched it with some wd-40, put it back together and after operating all the switches a few dozen times, success! Neutral light comes on, bike starts, go for a ride, cruise control won't set, so I'll have to work on that button some more, but most likely will end up having that assembly replaced. Cheaper to do it now rather than get stranded somewhere. Since they have to take the top half of bike off to change wiring harness, may as well change air filter while they are there.
 

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I'm glad you got it going, that's great!

If you get in there ( the switch assembly) again, put some dielectric grease in there.
On all the moving parts.
Most Auto parts stores sell it.

A little dab will do. Use a tooth pick or something like that.

Spray the contacts with cleaner and operate them if you can while spraying and flooding it clean.

Good luck

Guy



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I "Try" to remember to work all of the switches and buttons several times at least once a month.

My previous Wing I was the 3rd owner...... never could get some switches to work..... but they weren't ones that I never really needed to use.
 

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I blow air into my switches periodically. Set the compressor at about 15psi and blow the dust out. I've never had a problem.
 

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Sounds like the reverse shift switch was dirty. It connects the power for the neutral light to the gauge assembly and the reverse relay. Without this power getting through the switch, it won’t crank the engine no matter whether it’s in gear or in neutral. It also would not have connected the power to the reverse control module to activate reverse.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I try to get all them to spray WD-40 , but they just keep laughing.

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I say use both, they each serve a different purpose, contact cleaner to dissolve corrosion, wd40 to lubricate and protect against corrosion, idealy tho, they are both a liquid under pressure to blow away and wash away dust and grime.
I opened up the assembly again and used more contact cleaner and more wd40, actuated all the switchs many times, everything is working again. YAY! Back on the road again. Thanks for yalls help!
 

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I say use both, they each serve a different purpose, contact cleaner to dissolve corrosion, wd40 to lubricate and protect against corrosion, idealy tho, they are both a liquid under pressure to blow away and wash away dust and grime.
I opened up the assembly again and used more contact cleaner and more wd40, actuated all the switchs many times, everything is working again. YAY! Back on the road again. Thanks for yalls help!
Great job in solving the problem and thanks for sharing the process with all of us so we can learn too.
 
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