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I just posted all my information in the "Itroduce Yourself Forum" so I'll skip with all that. I just acquired an 84 GL1200 Aspencade recently and have been impressed with it thus far. I normally do ALL of the work on all of my vehicles and am a little intimidated by the wing, with all the plastic covers and what not. Anyway, to the questions:
1. What is the best shop manual, Chlymers or Haynes? I have a Chlymers for my other bike and a Haynes for my cages and both seem pretty good. Do you have a preference?

2. In my other bike it calls for 20w40 oil, but I normally run 20w50 Valvoline MC oil in the summer (70*+) and 10w40 the rest of the time. I notice that it helps with the wet clutch. Any preferences here? (I know that will start a war on the other forum)

3. With just over 50k on the clock what are some good things to do besides basics of checking/changing fluids, upgrading to an AGM Bat., reading through the owners and shop manual? Is there a particular spot on the forum with FAQ/How-To's that one might stroll through to find all the good bits?

I have so many other questions but that's normal when the bike has only been mine for a total of 6 hours. Also if anyone is in the Sioux Falls, SD area we should get together and go for a ride some time.
 

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if the timing belts haven't been changed change them. i use 10w 40 in spring and fall 20w 50 in summer. i have the honda shop manual so i can't say which of the two you have is better. look in the shop manual and find the wires for the stator, look under the left side panel. cut out the connector and solder each wire together
 

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yes the ststor connector is a weak point. none of the shop manuals list a time or milage to change the belts. a guy i trust changes his belts every eight years or 75,000 miles but he will change them if it hasn't been done or if the po doesn't know when it was done or it's never been done. a broken timing belt will cause damage to the valves and possably the piston too. then you'll be able and ready to ride your wing anywhere
 

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the stator doesn't start charging the battery until 2000 rpm before that the bike is running on battery power
 

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Well, I am new to goldwings, but I can answer this question using my 35 years of riding and fixing what I try to ride. There are only about 5 reasons why you are getting 8-10 volts at a light while getting 12 at the battery. Actually you should be getting more than 12 at the battery when the bike is off (12.25?) and 13-14 on the battery when the bike is running over 1000 rpms.
1) The ground you have your negative probe on is not a good ground. try it somewhere else.
2) The contact points you are touching are corroded. Clean them either mechanically or chemically before checking the voltage.
3) The switch or relay that turns that device on has bad contacts.
4) You have a bad ground.
5) Clean your battery terminals. One may be corroded or loose.
6) The connectors for the wiring of that particular piece of equipment are corroded or loose.
 
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