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Hello, I'm new here. Have had my 1984 GL1200I for about 5 years. It sat for 3-4 years before I got it. I had the carbs rebuilt when I got it and it's ran great since then, until now.

My GL1200I sat for about 2 months (fixing other stuff on it). It ran fine for a coulple weeks. Then I got some new plugs, AutoLite, and put some gas cleaner in the tank and it started acting funny.

Sputtered and popped on the way to emissions last week. As I was in line, the bike quit on me. Finally got it started, passed emissions, and got it home, thankfully. Although, after it popped it seemed to run better for a little bit.

Changed the fuel filter, it was a mess. Now the bike is still sputtering and the plugs are covered with black powder. The fuel pump also has a ticking (thumping) sound. It acts like it's starving for fuel, power is low. I just charged the battery, didn't help.

Any thoughts on what to do first? I read a bunch of posts here, could be pulse generator, could be fuel pump, could be rust, or it could be carbs.

I'm just not sure where to start. Any direction would be appreciated.



~ N
 

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Welcome to the GWOF!

Sure sounds like a chunk of Goo has broken loose and is blocking an artery!:eek: I'd probably first drain that tank of gas and run it through a lawnmower or something. Then I'd check the new fuel filter again to see if there is more inbound Crud in it, changing again if necessary. (Doc gave me the good tip of buying cheap 1/4" (clear) fuel filters until crud from the fuel tank stops flowing, then put in a good OEM filter, so I'll pass it along to you.) Fresh gas with 1/2-1oz of Seafoam in it and run it as much as possible.

After all's well going into the carbs, then we can look at adjusting/inspecting them. I assume your air filter is in tip-top shape, right? Spark plug wires good, and tight on the plugs. Crankcase breather bottle all clear?
 

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If the plugs are covered in a black powder, it is running too rich.
 

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Welcome to GWOF from Maryland
,
Hope all goes well for you
 

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How's the air cleaner look? Any critter nests?:eek:

When we first fired up my '85 1200 after doing the carbs it blew a cloud of mouse nests out the pipes! And there were plenty in the airbox earlier, before we cleaned them out and replaced the air filter.

Yes, black powder (not oily, right?) on the plugs should mean it's running rich. Carbs suck and meter; if they cannot suck sufficient air they'll suck more fuel per volume of air = rich. The term "rebuilt" when it comes to carbs seems to have a lot of definitions, from setting the semi-disassembled carbs in a parts washer to doing a "knelson1969-quality job":D!
 

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Hi and Welcome, Tatanka sounds like he is on to something. the bike sat too long probably and the junk fuel we get to buy breaks down faster than ever. you may want to try like the others have mentioned drain the tank, flush out and refill with new fuel. change the fuel filter which has been mentioned. then the part I like the most rebuild your carbs. if this is too costly and or time consuming you may consider mechanic in a bottle.
before we start on the quest for a perfect runnning Wing. check and recheck all recent work pull those plugs and recheck the gap and look for hairline cracks also double check the sparkplug number and confirm that it is the correct plug for your Wing. Also look for broken loose dryrotted vac lines etc. try and keep it simple and you may be able to fix it with out a fist full of cash.
From reading your post everything was fine until the plugs were installed and the fuel additive was poured into the tank. so my gut is telling me that is where you need to start. what type of cleaner did you put into the tank?
 

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As always, knelson is right: Inspect every hose and fuel rail on the carbs for splits/cracks. To operate properly, the intake system MUST be clean and tight. It was designed based on a certain amount of clean air (oxygen, actually) flowing through the carbs with a specific amount of gasoline mixed with it. Anything that messes any of that up is no good.

Not to hijack the thread, but to somewhat hijack the thread: Hey, knelson1969, I RE-sychronized my carbs tonight. I'd replaced the large O-rings in the bottoms of the intake aluminum elbows about 6 weeks ago and hadn't re-synched them. Yeah, being slack, as we say in the South. Well, it produced very good results. I've got to check Tatanka's compression values! Man, he's running well. Now has a very quick throttle. I'm totally sold on carb synchronization. And, when I'm a Big Boy, I'll try your "Color Tuning!" :D
 

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As always, knelson is right: Inspect every hose and fuel rail on the carbs for splits/cracks. To operate properly, the intake system MUST be clean and tight. It was designed based on a certain amount of clean air (oxygen, actually) flowing through the carbs with a specific amount of gasoline mixed with it. Anything that messes any of that up is no good.

Not to hijack the thread, but to somewhat hijack the thread: Hey, knelson1969, I RE-sychronized my carbs tonight. I'd replaced the large O-rings in the bottoms of the intake aluminum elbows about 6 weeks ago and hadn't re-synched them. Yeah, being slack, as we say in the South. Well, it produced very good results. I've got to check Tatanka's compression values! Man, he's running well. Now has a very quick throttle. I'm totally sold on carb synchronization. And, when I'm a Big Boy, I'll try your "Color Tuning!" :D
Color tuning is really just a good way to know that each cylinder is firing at the proper mixture not too rich not to lean. if you want to get real anal you can index your spark plugs also. every little micro adjustment goes a long way to making motorcycle bliss.
 

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Welcome to the place. Hope you get your issue sorted, but the guys have given you some good points. Let us know how it turns out.
 
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