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Discussion Starter #1
I trying to put a 1980 GL1100 back on the road after sitting for 9 years. The odometer has 27K but I don't know if that is 27K or 127K.

For starters, I put a new battery in her just to see what she would do. Turns out, not much. The lights seem to work but when I hit the starter button, it really sucks the juice out of her and she will barely turn over. After several times of hitting the button, she sometimes will actually turn over a couple of times. Once, it even sounded like she might be trying to fire. If I did not have a new battery, I would say it was battery problem.

With a new battery, it's not what I'm expecting. I quit messing with it until I could ask around.

Any ideas appreciated!
 

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I had a similar problem with my '83 1100 Wing. I would charge the battery and get a couple of cranks. I finally determined that it must be the starter and actually took a wooden mallet and hit the starter a couple of good raps and hit the button...it turned over and started. To make a long story short, I purchased a new starter and battery, the problem was solved. If I were you I would make sure the battery is fully charged and try it again, if it acts the same hit the starter ( that will release the dragging inside) and see if you can get it to spin freely. Hope this gives you a place to start. Good Luck! Let us know what you find out. Elmer
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the idea! I'll give her a rap tonight and let you know. I wouldn't be suprised since I have a decent amount of rust I'm dealing with. Is replacing the starter a huge job?
 

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also make sure there is no corrosion on the battery cables
 

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Well - did not get to the starter last night because when changing the oil, I found a mix of oil and water -yipes! So - before I give up, I'm going to flush it with good oil, oil the cylinders and see if she wants run. Did I mention that I paid very little for the bike? Oh well, any ideas appreciated. I'm really not a "motor" guy but I did rebuild a VW engine about 25 years ago so I might have to open this one up and take a peak.
 

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Don't do anything major yet. Was it water and oil or antifreeze and oil? If it was water and oil, it could be just condensation water inside the engine built up over the years of sitting in a damp area. I would change oil and filter, check the antifreeze level...add if necessary, and try to get it started. Hope everything works out for you. I love my 'Wing!
As my son-in-law always says, "Don't swat a fly with a sledge hammer." Make sure you have a problem before disassembling.
 

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On my 83 GL1100i: At one time I used to put a bit of oil in each cylinder for over winter (which is about 6-7 months long here). Every spring I would have to boost it with my car to start it, the motorcycle battery just wouldn't do it. I know lots of riders say that's too much amperage, but it got the bike going without any bad effects for about 10 years. I stopped putting oil in the cylinders and don't have to boost it anymore. So this is just a plug for a bit of a boost. Not more than, say 1 minute, then let it cool down. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the replies. Last night I got the plugs out and put a little light oil in each cylinder. I put a new oil filter and fresh oil in. Hit the starter with no plugs and it now spins right up. Today I'm going to try to get some fresh fuel in her, put some new plugs in and see if she'll fire up. I'll kkep y'all posted.
 

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On my 83 GL1100i: ... Every spring I would have to boost it with my car to start it, ... I know lots of riders say that's too much amperage, ...Good luck.
That is NOT too much amperage. You could supply 100,000 amps to the starter, and it would still only draw the amps it needed. If it spins the motor over quickly, then it is CLEARLY not drawing too much. The ONLY way it could be drawing too much is if you supply a bunch of amps, and it cranks slowly, (assuming the volts are correct). If it cranks slowly, something is slowing the starter down, (like a real problem with the motor, or a problem with the starte windings), and making the starter draw more than intended. If it spins normally, it is only drawing normal amps no matter how many are available.
Tom
 

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i boost all the street bikes i have off the car, have been doing it for years. i have tryied boosting the bike from a fully charged car battery, deepcycle battery, and the jump start. all i ended up with was a dead car battery,deepcycle battery, and dead jump start along with the wing battery. since i got my first 750 i just jump it using the car with the motor running
 

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Just so everyone knows, I got my engine running fine after lubing the clylinders, fresh oil, and cleaing the carbs. The sluggis behavior was a factor of sitting up for nine years and having rust in alot of places, as well as some very bad looking looking oil that had condensate in it. Now she starts when I barely hit the switch. I still have a long way to go on everything else, but the motor sounds like she is ready!
 

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Just so everyone knows, I got my engine running fine after lubing the clylinders, fresh oil, and cleaing the carbs. The sluggis behavior was a factor of sitting up for nine years and having rust in alot of places, as well as some very bad looking looking oil that had condensate in it. Now she starts when I barely hit the switch. I still have a long way to go on everything else, but the motor sounds like she is ready!
I'm sure sorry I didn't see this thread sooner, but I just joined. The "rust in a lot of places" includes the cylinders and rings. :eek: I would never attempt to turn an engine over that had sat for 9 years before lubing the cylinders and letting them sit overnight. I would imagine that the first few cranks you did with dry cylinders & rings probably shortened the engines life by a fair amount of miles before needing a rebuild.:( I am glad to hear however that it is up and running though.
 
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