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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Would someone be so kind to educate me as to why a fork brace is needed on the 01-10 1800. Superbrace shows the front forks deflecting creating a front end wobble and fork distortion stating there is cupping problems without a brace.

Shouldn't increasing the front air pressure from 36 psi to 37 or 38 psi help reduce the wobble or is the brace just sales hype. I cannot imagine Honda engineering has not addressed this issue.

Please advise and thank you,

Jim
 

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Jim,

Fork braces are not necessary, many people do not have them. They are one of those items that you CAN add.

Cupping can be attributed to poor tire management as well.
 

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That's a tough one to answer yes or no. To brace or not to brace? As with a lot of addys that others have on their Wing I have put one of those on my wishlist. Why you ask ? I don't know. Perhaps monkey see, monkey do. Can it hurt, NO. Can it help with something or anything ? That gets back to your question. I don't feel anything wrong with my stock set up so right now I don't think I'll appreciate the subtle improvement of a brace. Front wobble has been attributed to the steering head bearings by many riders and the cure for that is to change them out with All Balls brand bearings. And that's all I know at the moment in case you asked.
 

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Update Jim: I just went for a little ride today; 52*, shield up, flannel lined jeans, sweat shirt and Joe Sprocket riding jacket... Perfect. I checked numerous time for the infamous wobble that I am all too familiar with since I bought the bike with 8,400 miles on it in '09. None " yet ". I'm currently running a car tire with about 3,000 miles on her and a Bridgestone 709 up front with about 2,000 miles on her. Time will tell, but this is what I can tell you at the moment: The difference this time is that I am running on the rear a car tire that should wear evenly across compared to my previous Metzeler 880 which, as motorcycle tires tend to do, cup with wear and mileage. By all others hopes and statistics, the rear car tire should last as long, if not longer than the front tire. If the infamous wobble should return when the front tire is showing the cup effect and the rear is wearing evenly I can intuitively deduce the infamous wobble to the front wheel cupping. Can't I ?
 

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I'm not name dropping or making any advertisement for the said brace and I don't even know how many companies are out there but, I live in the north GA mountains at the end of a dirt road that you nearly need 4 wheel drive to come visit unless its raining then I come pull you up the mountain. Anyway that is where I notice the obvious difference in the steering control of the bike, unbelievable difference. The front end is so tight its like someone put a whole new front end on my bike. If you don't have one yet, well your missing out on a whole new riding experience. Well I know I sound like some commercial but you will just have to try it yourself. I can't wait to run the Tail again to see the difference...Meanwhile I'm wait for my CT to arrive. Imagine tight front end CT in the back. It'll be like Xmas having a new bike to run....Just thought I' make a suggestion. Oh and my new Michelin Pilot for the front just arrived (rear tire turned backwards of course. Thanx guys Good Luck and Ride Safe, Craig
 

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What is your opinion on a tulsa belly pan to protect coolant tank which is plastic. There is a video on the lubrication forum showing a guy changing his oil and removing a tulsa belly pan which should protect the bottom of the bike. I certainly appreciate your input.

Thx and safe riding.

jim
I don't have the " Tulsa " brand belly pan, but I do have a belly pan. Mine has a front piece that is removable by removing three screws which allows access to the oil filter. The rest of the pan stays attached to the underside. Now when I change the coolant the entire pan will have to be removed to access the overflow reservoir.
 

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i'm not saying the cupping will or will not happen but the control and response to the steering far out ways the possibility. Cupping can also be attributed to many things not just one. Spongy shock, worn wheel bearing, loose tree nuts, twisted forks. Many things attribute to cupping so unless you install advanced parts tried and true to a better front end then believe me you'll always get some cupping. Weak springs is another contributor. That's where the Progressive springs you here about are so popular. No one thing is going to fix that problem but a combination of several improvements may help with the longevity of your front treads. And this holds true for even a brand new MC. If the manufacture put all of the number one stuff in you bike, keeping in mind they are mass produced, then a Honda would far surpass the cost of most MC's on the market. They are appealing to a broader market. Not just racers or cruisers, or sport runners but all. And in each market there are after-market parts designed to advance the ability of that particular end user. Some people buy a vehicle with the intent to get a new one every 3-5 years. Then there are people like me that run a 1988 and I'm totally content to be riding the same for another 20 years. That's why my other ride is a 1969 Torino GT and my last big truck was a 1990 Peterbilt and both are still in my driveway. Thank You... So Ride Safe and never think you are to old to learn something new...Craig
 

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Fork braces are not an improvement. There is nothing that a non-braced Wing cannot do that one with a fork brace can do. It is just different. Some like lots of flex in their fishing rod, others do not. Same difference. Will not make you faster in the twisties but some like the firmer feel during slow speed maneuvers.
 

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These threads and c/t's seem to have links like Frank Calliendo has with using Brett Favre in his routines. It just happens. I had a brace on my 1200 and liked it. Don't have one on my '09 and desn't seem to need one.
 

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I have been wondering if a brace is truly needed. My '06 came with one, pretty sure it is a Kury. 9 months later I had the bike "triked" and the good folks in Shawnee told me I didnt need a brace for a trike. Any thought??

Secondly, after replacing front seals twice I took the brace off. I cant really tell any difference in handling or wabbleing. My question is here, I dont have the original Goldwing chrome that was replaced by the brace. Is that chrome piece for show or do I need it???
 

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I had a superbrace on my 98 GL1500 and it did seem to help with slow speed turning. I don't have one on my 09 GL1800 and don't feel the need for one. I did/do have the belly pan on both bikes and think they are worth the price if only to deflect a rock that could cause damage to the underside. JMHO..
 

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I actually prefer the ride without a fork brace. So the saying goes, to each his own. I rode several GW's with stock front ends with a brace. Nothing comes close to having the right (stiffer) springs in your suspension. It feels stiffer with less flex but didn't do anything to improve control or ride. Just my opinion.
 

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.......... My question is here, I dont have the original Goldwing chrome that was replaced by the brace. Is that chrome piece for show or do I need it???
Yes and no. It is both a show piece and a debris repellant to a certain extent around the lower fork seal. Does it actually protect the seal from bugs glued to the upper tube ? I don't know.
 

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It's all about a person's definition of "necessary" :)

From what I know I don't think I'd spend the money on a fork brace without replacing the springs and disabling the anti-dive as well. I think if you want to experience a noticeable incremental improvement in front suspension performance--and front tire life--it is worth another $120 to get some springs that are enough for the weight of the bike and your passenger load. Once you get good springs the anti-dive should go away--you don't need it with good springs and it's notoriously unreliable.

If you're handy those $300 in parts will make a noticeable difference in ride quality and handling. ;)
 

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Not dissing the idea, but fork braces have ben around a long time. They came on the scene when fork stanchions were smaller and too flexible for the capabilities of the bikes of the day, or their intended use. Alot of old bikes came with mechanical steering dampeners too, but they were a bandaid not a cure, the problems were in the triple clamps and forks and steering geometry. On today's bikes (GL's too) a fork brace will greatly reduce handlebar shake and slop in low speed maneuvers and over larger bumps, but it's just the added lateral rigidity (ties both forks together equally) under those circumstances that helps, it changes nothing in the rest of the front end or it's functionality.
 

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When I bought my 1984 'wing, I noticed that the front end seemed to be connected to the handlebars through a piece of rubber. Everyone of my next 5 'wings had the same wobble in the front end. I even found out it had a name, the GOLDWING WOBBLE. Play with tire pressure, tire brand, anything you like, but (and I've tried it all) the front end is going to wobble without some sort of brace. I thought it was just me until many club members said they have noticed the same thing. I could take my '09 Ultra, run it to 30 MPH, take my hands off the handlebars (yeah, I know) and slow to about 5 MPH and never a shimmy. I tried it with my 2012 'wing and as soon as my hands came off, the wobble started. Best bet? Get used to it......
 

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When I bought my 1984 'wing, I noticed that the front end seemed to be connected to the handlebars through a piece of rubber. Everyone of my next 5 'wings had the same wobble in the front end. I even found out it had a name, the GOLDWING WOBBLE. Play with tire pressure, tire brand, anything you like, but (and I've tried it all) the front end is going to wobble without some sort of brace. I thought it was just me until many club members said they have noticed the same thing. I could take my '09 Ultra, run it to 30 MPH, take my hands off the handlebars (yeah, I know) and slow to about 5 MPH and never a shimmy. I tried it with my 2012 'wing and as soon as my hands came off, the wobble started. Best bet? Get used to it......
Put a Kumho car tire on the rear, a Bridgestone 709 on the front, fill them with Dyno-beads and go hands free until you need to make a sharp turn. It has worked for me for 5,000 miles so far and I'm a veteran wobbler since boot camp.
 

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1200's came stock with a fork brace. Mine wore out at about 50k miles and I replaced it with a Superbrace along with a set of progressive springs after I had a tank slapper (different issue totally). If my '84 had 'the' wobble, I never knew about it for 167,00 miles. Then again I don't ride with my...never mind;)
 
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