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I just bought myself a 1995 SE 20th Anniversary Edition with 25,238 miles and it is mint shape, I bought it knowing the Rear Brake went all the way down, but the front brake works,

It sure is a beauty, and we could not pass it up for price, Prior owner, he was to short for the bike 5ft 5” and just did not work for him, he bought it from a dealer as 2nd owner I am 3rd.

The prior owner is trust worthy and an ATF agent, we found out as his best freind sells classic Cars and stored it in his over flow garage and noticed it when he had to drive it to move it for his ATF buddy, he asked the ATF agent and he stated it worked fine before it was stored the winter.

I am new to the group and new to the goldwing, which I always dreamed of owning and would hopefully get help if someone had this happen before and might help me in discovering or assiting in what is wrong before I drive it home, safety is important to me of course, I am a experienced rider of over 40 years, and the last big bike I had was a 1989 venture royale.

My first Question is: Is it safe to ride 18 miles home with the just the front brake

And what might be wrong we can check..and what to test or look for?

My wife and I are really excited, I was able to get her to get her Cycle license back in 2007, and she rode with me everywhere we go, we sold our last bikes 4 years ago, and now have the fever, and decided to go back to the bigger bike together.. instead of separate, i taught her on a 250 first then she got her own 750, we both had 1995 Yamaha Viragos.

I included pics to show condition, maybe that helps i know all kinds of things could be why, but whatever helps.

I hope this info helps people be able to help us. I will be driving the new Goldwing home.
 

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Welcome to the GWOF from AZ.

I would ride it home, most of your braking action is with the front and I would use the transmission to assist.

If it was me, I would take the brake reservoirs apart, clean thoroughly, and then bleed the brakes really well.

Good luck
 

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Riding it the 18 miles home should be safe enough as long as you remember that the rear brake is not going to do much to stop you.

As to the issue with the pedal going all the way down, you probably just need to bleed the rear brake system.

If you do not already know, the left front brake is also actuated by the rear brake pedal so you have to bleed both calipers. I would start start with the front caliper first.

The fluid is probably just got an air bubble in it somewhere. Bleeding and replaced the DOT 4 fluid may be all you need to do.

By the way, it is not a 1995 SE. It is a 1995 Aspencade.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Welcome to the GWOF from AZ.

I would ride it home, most of your braking action is with the front and I would use the transmission to assist.

If it was me, I would take the brake reservoirs apart, clean thoroughly, and then bleed the brakes really well.

Good luck
thank you
 

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Here's a good thread for you to read. Complete with the order in which to bleed the brakes.

 

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Welcome, and congrats on a beauty! I would personally try bleeding it before riding home. If that doesn't work then ride it home slowly.
All the previous owner (PO) about previous service records, especially the timing belts.

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk
 

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It's been two days. Did you make it home in one piece? How are the brakes doing now?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It's been two days. Did you make it home in one piece? How are the brakes doing now?
I am waiting for good weather to get her home, in Wisconsin it's just to cold for me to make the attempt and feel comfortable, I decide to Drive it home myself on Wednesday hopefully it will be around 65-67 degrees now it is like 42, about 18 miles to my place from where it is at, I have to choices, the country road (X) , or the highway (29) , from Chippewa Falls, WI. to Cadott, WI. then work on the brakes and attempt to do it myself.

I have been reading up alot, sounds like a job to get at the rear caliper, but then I read there is an access hole in the saddle bag that can be accessed? it has like a Sticker or cover on it that you can remove and it magically appears someone said. I hope that's true as getting off the left bag sounds like a process.

Any other hints appreciated, I also read that applying pressure not he rear pedal overt or the front brake and tie it shut with a cable tie might help.

I was reported as working before front the seller so that seems odd to me, but I also read one guy had the same problem and drove down the road it was squishy, then just got better and better.
 

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Removing the saddlebag is not so difficult, just a few common tools are needed.

The easiest way is to have someone do it for you but good help is hard to find.

The saddle bag is really only held in place with four screws but you really should have someone there to guide you if you have never done it. It is not difficult, it just has a few steps that should be demonstrated.

Remove the seat. There are four socket head screws that hold the seat in place. The screws are accessed by removing the plastic lugs on either end of the passenger grab rails.
Remove the left side cover forward of the saddlebag that is above the passenger foot rest.
Remove the small chrome holders covering the screws on the saddlebag corner piece.

Remove the screws.
Remove the left rear saddle bag lower corner piece.

Disconnect the electrical connectors that go to the left saddle bag lights.

Remove the four screws that hold the trunk lower cover.

Remove the trunk lower cover.

Remove the four screws in the saddlebag that hold it to the saddlebag frame.


The saddlebag is now loose but you need to slide it back and out slightly to get access to the door release cable.
Remove the cable stopper from the saddlebag door opener rod.

Extract the cable end from the stopper and then return the stopper to the rod so it does not get misplaced.
Squeeze the cable holder and push it out from inside the saddlebag complete with the cable.

The saddlebag can now be removed and set aside.
Do not try to set the saddlebag upright without propping it up somehow, it will fall over and get scratched.
It's better to just lay it down on its inner face.

Once you have done that, getting access to the caliper is easy.
 

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if you have the owners manual.......... the directions are in there on how to remove the saddle bag
if you don't have the owners manual......... they are easy to download
for the 1500s the manuals gave real good directions on how to take things apart
 

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I tried to direct you to a post here on easy brake bleeding but it was blocked and needed to be reviewed by a moderator. I do not know why so I deleted it in its entirety instead.
Do a search for Easy Brake or Clutch Bleeding Process.
 

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I do not think there is a place in the Owner's Manual that shows how to remove the saddle bag. But in the Maintenance section under Wheels it shows a pretty good picture of all the parts. Somewhere around page 130 I think.

The removal/installation process is in the Service Manual.
 

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the manual I am looking at is page 98
Michael B is correct in the fact it is under "rear tire removal"
but you will just need to be on the left side
the bag removal is quite simple.......... just a couple of hidden screws that the manual shows where they are
 

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This is another of my favorite sites
you can order parts..... but I use it to show how things fit together in their exploded views
 

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Try the weight method of bleeding eh rear brake. Hang a pail of water from the rear pedal overnight and see if that smartens it up.
 

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I just bought myself a 1995 SE 20th Anniversary Edition with 25,238 miles and it is mint shape, I bought it knowing the Rear Brake went all the way down, but the front brake works,

It sure is a beauty, and we could not pass it up for price, Prior owner, he was to short for the bike 5ft 5” and just did not work for him, he bought it from a dealer as 2nd owner I am 3rd.

The prior owner is trust worthy and an ATF agent, we found out as his best freind sells classic Cars and stored it in his over flow garage and noticed it when he had to drive it to move it for his ATF buddy, he asked the ATF agent and he stated it worked fine before it was stored the winter.

I am new to the group and new to the goldwing, which I always dreamed of owning and would hopefully get help if someone had this happen before and might help me in discovering or assiting in what is wrong before I drive it home, safety is important to me of course, I am a experienced rider of over 40 years, and the last big bike I had was a 1989 venture royale.

My first Question is: Is it safe to ride 18 miles home with the just the front brake

And what might be wrong we can check..and what to test or look for?

My wife and I are really excited, I was able to get her to get her Cycle license back in 2007, and she rode with me everywhere we go, we sold our last bikes 4 years ago, and now have the fever, and decided to go back to the bigger bike together.. instead of separate, i taught her on a 250 first then she got her own 750, we both had 1995 Yamaha Viragos.

I included pics to show condition, maybe that helps i know all kinds of things could be why, but whatever helps.

I hope this info helps people be able to help us. I will be driving the new Goldwing home.
Hey, had the same problem. Make sure the brake fluid is full, bleed, and then, the trick is, depress and have something to hold the pedal down for a day or so. Pump it and it will be back!
 

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thank you
Same, ride it home normal rear brake use is alot less needed. Drain all the brake fluid as its most probably contaminated as its hygroscopic and absorbs moisture, make sure u bleed rear brake and front brakes separately and thoroughly to clear the brake lines....I had this with my 2008 Gl after an icy start one morning...
 
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