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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Howdy guys,

So last week I bought my first motorcycle, a 1977 GL1000 Goldwing. It was a barn find previously, but the engine turns over! All the electronics so far work and it looks complete. I'm compiling a list of stuff that that I need to get to make it roadworthy. Here's my list so far:

Timing belt ($35 from napa #250274 but I think this is for 1, not 2)
Tires ($225 for tires, mount and balancing, and them taking the rear wheel off. Local bike shop)
Rear shocks ($40 from ebay)
New fluids, oil, diff, brake, and radiator
Brake pads ($9 per set)
Rear Rotor ($40 from ebay)
Possible carbs rebuild (Randakk $150)
Grips ($20)
Headlight (not bucket)(Not sure of part number to look for)

This list is compiled from what I can see and from what I've read (ie timing belt).
I usually work on classic cars so I have experience with older stuff (My DD 65 Ranchero, my dad's 61 Studebaker Lark). I'm honestly just trying to get this bike to where I can ride and enjoy it with the least amount of money put into it. If any of you have any tips or have extra parts you'd like to sell cheaper than what I have listed, let me know. This will be primarily a fun bike or a backup when I work on the Ranchero.

The front forks are air filled, I'm assuming someone converted them to that. They hold air so it seems. I was able to bleed the rear caliper and it definitely works when I hit the brake. It does seem to drag, I don't know if expanding the caliper might fix that, or that it doesn't help that the rear rotor looks like a vinyl record (super ridgy). I also attempted to bleed the front brakes and for some reason when I squeezed the handle, fluid came out like it should, but the handle got floppy and wouldn't work afterwards when it had been fine before I tried bleeding the calipers. Is there some sort of safety where if the keys aren't in the ignition then the front brakes can't be bled? I didn't have the keys with me to check.

The muffler system is rusted on the left side bad, several holes. I was planning on running just straight pipes from the downpipes to glasspacks or something along those lines to fix the exhaust. Or is there another more economical method? Originality is nice, but money is a huge factor. I'm a college student so there ain't much.

I know its a lot for one post but thanks for reading and your input.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Howdy guys,

So last week I bought my first motorcycle, a 1977 GL1000 Goldwing. It was a barn find previously, but the engine turns over! All the electronics so far work and it looks complete. I'm compiling a list of stuff that that I need to get to make it roadworthy. Here's my list so far:

Timing belt ($35 from napa #250274 but I think this is for 1, not 2)
Tires ($225 for tires, mount and balancing, and them taking the rear wheel off. Local bike shop)
Rear shocks ($40 from ebay)
New fluids, oil, diff, brake, and radiator
Brake pads ($9 per set)
Rear Rotor ($40 from ebay)
Possible carbs rebuild (Randakk $150)
Grips ($20)
Headlight (not bucket)(Not sure of part number to look for)

This list is compiled from what I can see and from what I've read (ie timing belt).
I usually work on classic cars so I have experience with older stuff (My DD 65 Ranchero, my dad's 61 Studebaker Lark). I'm honestly just trying to get this bike to where I can ride and enjoy it with the least amount of money put into it. If any of you have any tips or have extra parts you'd like to sell cheaper than what I have listed, let me know. This will be primarily a fun bike or a backup when I work on the Ranchero.

The front forks are air filled, I'm assuming someone converted them to that. They hold air so it seems. I was able to bleed the rear caliper and it definitely works when I hit the brake. It does seem to drag, I don't know if expanding the caliper might fix that, or that it doesn't help that the rear rotor looks like a vinyl record (super ridgy). I also attempted to bleed the front brakes and for some reason when I squeezed the handle, fluid came out like it should, but the handle got floppy and wouldn't work afterwards when it had been fine before I tried bleeding the calipers. Is there some sort of safety where if the keys aren't in the ignition then the front brakes can't be bled? I didn't have the keys with me to check.

The muffler system is rusted on the left side bad, several holes. I was planning on running just straight pipes from the downpipes to glasspacks or something along those lines to fix the exhaust. Or is there another more economical method? Originality is nice, but money is a huge factor. I'm a college student so there ain't much.

I know its a lot for one post but thanks for reading and your input.
I'll also need new front brake lines. The left side one is cracked. I see these lines going for over $100. All i need are usable lines. If you got some extra, I'd be happy to take them.
 

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I am working on a 75 now. Mine is complete but doing a lot of the mechanics, etc you discussed. I assume you have found the naked wing forum. Very valuable group. Where are you located.
 

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Forgot to say but check the radiator hoses and coolant also.
 

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Depending on what you need for parts to replace damaged ones, detailed lists are a must. Many OEM parts can be found online and in reasonable condition for relatively low prices. There are sites with part #'s and I have access to Honda original part #s if that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I am working on a 75 now. Mine is complete but doing a lot of the mechanics, etc you discussed. I assume you have found the naked wing forum. Very valuable group. Where are you located.
I'll check them out next

I'm near Seattle, WA
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Depending on what you need for parts to replace damaged ones, detailed lists are a must. Many OEM parts can be found online and in reasonable condition for relatively low prices. There are sites with part #'s and I have access to Honda original part #s if that helps.
If having the part numbers makes finding the correct ones easier then yes I'd love to have them.

What would the numbers be for:
Headlight
All 3 front brake lines

Thanks a lot!
 

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OK, now I didn't check for availability (in all likelihood Honda has discontinued the parts) but there may be online stores that have suitable replacements. The headlight assembly is pretty much all Stanley so many of the pieces (bucket, sealed beam, rings, fasteners etc) might still be out there.
Headlight bucket/case: 61301-371-003
Sealed beam (50w/40w): 33321-371-672
Rim: 33101-300-673
Ring:33121-375-671
Setting ring: 33153-375-671


Front brake hose (B): 45126-371-660
Master cyl boot: 45522-300-010
Brake hose (A) x 2: 45125-371-013
*there are no lengths/dimensions on the hoses, but it might be simpler to get braided lines from a fabricator instead of the stock style rubber ones. Just have to order "braided hoses" and not use the term "brake lines" because of certification rules. If it was me, that's the way I'd go but it might be cost prohibitive for you.
Hope it helps
 

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Discussion Starter #11
OK, now I didn't check for availability (in all likelihood Honda has discontinued the parts) but there may be online stores that have suitable replacements. The headlight assembly is pretty much all Stanley so many of the pieces (bucket, sealed beam, rings, fasteners etc) might still be out there.
Headlight bucket/case: 61301-371-003
Sealed beam (50w/40w): 33321-371-672
Rim: 33101-300-673
Ring:33121-375-671
Setting ring: 33153-375-671


Front brake hose (B): 45126-371-660
Master cyl boot: 45522-300-010
Brake hose (A) x 2: 45125-371-013
*there are no lengths/dimensions on the hoses, but it might be simpler to get braided lines from a fabricator instead of the stock style rubber ones. Just have to order "braided hoses" and not use the term "brake lines" because of certification rules. If it was me, that's the way I'd go
but it might be cost prohibitive for you.
Hope it helps
Right on, thanks man! I just checked the part number for the headlight and shoot they aren't easy to find and are expensive. Would a generic 7" motorcycle headlight work too? I see them for cheap.

I actually found a like new (slightly used) set of OEM caliper brake lines for $11 a piece. They are discontinued and the braided lines are spooky expensive.

If i need any more part numbers I'll come to you man, thanks a lot!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OK, now I didn't check for availability (in all likelihood Honda has discontinued the parts) but there may be online stores that have suitable replacements. The headlight assembly is pretty much all Stanley so many of the pieces (bucket, sealed beam, rings, fasteners etc) might still be out there.
Headlight bucket/case: 61301-371-003
Sealed beam (50w/40w): 33321-371-672
Rim: 33101-300-673
Ring:33121-375-671
Setting ring: 33153-375-671


Front brake hose (B): 45126-371-660
Master cyl boot: 45522-300-010
Brake hose (A) x 2: 45125-371-013
*there are no lengths/dimensions on the hoses, but it might be simpler to get braided lines from a fabricator instead of the stock style rubber ones. Just have to order "braided hoses" and not use the term "brake lines" because of certification rules. If it was me, that's the way I'd go but it might be cost prohibitive for you.
Hope it helps
Also, do the headlights interchange with the CB bikes too? I see headlight setups for those
 

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That I really can't say for sure, although I'm sure it's more of a size thing than actual numbered parts. A 7" light bucket (IMO) should be a 7" bucket right? I would think a generic one would be just fine. I've never done a custom build of any kind, but maybe someone that has can offer up on that subject.
 
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