Still not sure what's going on. Pulled pistons, rod bearings are fine. Crank spins fine now. Don't see any damage or chipped gear teeth. Only suspect I have now is the oil pick up. It flopped out when I separated the case halves. Figure I'll pull the crank and trans shafts and then inspect the oil pump. It might have swallowed something too big to chew. I thought it might be broken ring but all are intact and cylinder bores look great. Have new rings to go back in. I'm really relieved bearings look good, understand their NLA. Heading out for the long weekend tomorrow, won't get back to this until next week. Hope all have a safe and fun Labor Day.
A floor jack sure makes pulling & installing that motor so much easier. It's been some years since I had to yank mine out but the wheels on that jack and the ability to swivel/twist it about kept it from becoming a bad experience.
My experience on wing motors is limited Mike, but there are some motors which are not recommended to be reverse rotated without risk of suffering internal damage. Please don't take this wrong and perhaps research the subject because I don't know and it's worth a look because my manual stipulates a specific directional rotation whilst doing the ignition timing, etc. I'm a worry wart on little things which could be related. Connecting dots and such.
Thanks for the input, bud. I read that too re: not rotating backwards, noting it could loosen the stator bolt. I only rotated backwards a couple times after it had become 'stuck' going the correct direction. I used a floor jack to yank it and you're right, only way I could pull it working alone. Really heavy engine.
Plan to pull it down to bare cases, inspect, clean, paint and back together. I hope I find something amiss or I'll be really worried once I go to start it again. And this time, I'm hip to the correct procedure for the ignition timing. It's gonna be great and I'll get to put a ton of miles on it going forward. According to my theory.
Hey Mike - Before putting everything back together make sure to inspect the centrifugal rollers and springs that make up your starter clutch assembly. If one of these small parts is worn out, broken or has fallen out of place - the reverse rotation of the crank shaft may bind up.
Good Luck - Michael
I was pondering your situation.... since you've already got that motor out maybe a water pump would be nice on the list. Considering the age you know because when the seal goes coolant gets into everything. I had to pull mine, drain & fill with varsol to flush the gunk out. My first clue was the starter drive screwing up. Coolant really gums up the works when coupled with heat, oil and a 4 cylinder mixer. Just an idea. I know you've got a full plate.
I wish you good fortune in your battle.
Well, haven't found anything yet that would account for the engine to stop spinning, crank and trans shafts spin fine in their case half. Really odd. I did find some scoring on the #1 bore while the rest look really good. Oil pump and scavenge pump are clean and clear. Water pump is fine. No debris anywhere inside the cases. Rings are all intact. Guess I'll run a bead hone lightly through the bores and go back together with fresh rings. Bigger task is getting all these parts clean prior to assembly, I'm garage challenged these days. That's it for now... first image is #3, second is #1. Any ideas what could cause this scoring? Leaky exhaust valve? Piston slap? Skirts show no signs of wear.
I agree with OP that something sat and corroded the bore or the cylinder plating in that area wore off due to a manufacturers defect or an uncentered rod putting side pressure on the piston skirt. Can you catch a finger nail on the edge of the wear?
I think you're right... something sat there and corroded the wall. This bike sat for almost 10 years before I got it so entirely plausible. It doesn't have an edge, it seems pretty smooth to my fingernail. Hopeful I can run a bead hone through a few times and clean it up. Otherwise, amazed to still see factory cross hatch on the bores.
That Mark is at the top of the bore and I am wondering if there was some scale there that locked the piston and that was why you could not turn the engine and when you were disassembling the engine it fell out without you knowing it. It does not take a lot to lock an engine with the tight tolerances today.
Made pretty good progress this last week. Cases are back together and pistons have fresh rings. Pulled the forks and have them apart for new seals. Polished the legs up to 600 grit and I'm tired of that job so that's where they'll stay.
Cases went together easily. Used standard ring compressor on the right side and the left side really did slide onto the pistons just fine because of the large chamfer at the base of the bores. It says this in the shop manual and I was skeptical but it worked great.
So I'm a couple wrenching days away from stuffing the engine back into the frame. Yahoo!
That's sure looking good. I hope I never have to cross the Rubicon with mine because I really don't enjoy working on Goldwings much. They're too much like Japanese cars and I find my hands & fingers very difficult to get into them to do anything.
Anyway you'll be riding the beast quite soon and as good as new.
Well... I finally found the problem. I've been spinning the engine as I go back together to make sure it doesn't give me a heart attack and continue to stop once I've got it back in the frame. Installed rear case cover after installing the starter. Did my spin routine and chunk! it stopped. At first I thought it was the starter because it would spin without it installed but the starter is fine. So I pulled the stator and bloop, out falls a sheared bolt. One of the three starter clutch bolts had sheared and was flopping around inside the clutch. Once the starter chain was tensioned, the bolt head would jam up the works. I am SO happy I don't have to split these cases again. Turns out I didn't have to in the first place but at least I've got fresh rings now. Yikes, this engine has put me through the wringer. Back together soon once I replace all three starter clutch bolts.
Turns out there were two sheared bolts in the starter clutch. Geez. So replaced all three with allen heads instead of the torx bolts. Case ends installed. Spins like a top. I am so ready to stuff this engine back in and go for a ride.