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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As some of you may know, I recently picked up a 1986 Aspencade with about 50k miles. I got it from the original owner who parked it about 7 years ago.

I flushed the tank and found no garbage/gunk or other things. I cleaned the almost new spark plugs and installed a new fuel filter/fuel lines/air filter. Changed the oil and filter. I installed the new Honda filter and Honda oil that came with the Goldwing.

I primed the oil by cranking it with the kill switch on for 5 seconds off 10 seconds. After a few times of that I pulled the choke and started her up. I held it at about 2k rpm and it was doing ok. I turned it off after about 30 seconds to check it out and found a good soze leake coming from cyclinder #1 (right front). With the fairing/covers on I can't see exactly where it is coming from.

The plan is to remove the lower fairing and start it again to id the leak location. Any ideas-sugestions-experiences would be appreciated greatly. Thank you
 

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The 1200's were famous for having sticky carb slides, but that shouldn't cause a leak. A stuck float could be the culprit or a worn needle and seat, my guess on the forward carb that hides behind the fairing lower. Sometimes, just a slight tap with the handle of a screwdriver will settle things down, just remember "tap' not "smack". As for the sticky slide, most of us that ran the 1200's used a bottle of Bardahl Injectorklean about every fourth tank of fuel, worked like a charm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So, I removed the seat/top compartment/lower fairings and try the "tap" the carburetors trick. I pull the choke and it starts, barely idleing. Then no more start. I got out the can of starting fluid and sprayed away. It started and idled for a bit---no leaks--anywhere? I did this a few more times and while the petcock is open and the fuel filter is full of gas - no starting/running without artificial addition of fuel/starting fluid.

Next is the fuel pump test right?


I was given a suggestion that perhaps when I fueled it up prior to starting it up I overflowed the tank and the drain for the overflow is over the #1 carburetor. Does that sound possible? I did overfill it a bit but did not notice where the drain is. Ideas?


Never mind the overflow theory---the overflow dumps in the middle of the bike--near the centerstand.

I can't find the fuel pump relay. I jumped the fuel pump using 12 volts right to the wiring (after disconnecting it) and that sucker puts out more than a drunk chearleader on prom night.

But I don't know where the relay is. My Clymer book shows it on the frame above the fuel pump--but it ain't there. My wiring diagram shows White/Green-Black/Blue-Yellow. I looked around the frame and can't find it...Any hints from the crowd?
 

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The fuel pump relay is under the ignition coils according to the Honda service manual. There should be a white and a black wire in the connector plug to help you identify it. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think I found it. It only puts out 6 volts while the bike is running. I rigged a gas supply for it and it idles nice. I would imagine the relay should be putting out 12 volts--no? The battery is new and fully charged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Update--after chasing an electrical problem around for a while--I found the relay (Thanks again) and did the test from the manual. It tells me the wiring from the relay to the pump is good and that the relay is bad. I have a bid in on one-hopefully I'll have one on the way soon. I still think the carbs need to be rebuilt, but I'll wait until I have gas available with the spark I already have....
 

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That's good news 86, now let's hope you win that bid!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the tip. They do seem to be proud of the parts though!
I don't see what I need but will keep them in mind as I go along. If/when I get fuel to the carbs and everything seems good-I think I will be getting the carb kit from Randall (sp?). Poor thing looks naked at this point...
 

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I think you should get more sleep and absorb a tad less of that "cheap beer":D:D
For the record, the 1000's didn't run circles around any other GL's nor do the newer ones run circles around them. The only one's that actually ran 'slow' were the '80 std and the '88 1500, the only one's that in stock form failed to break into the 12 second bracket. The 1000 had a 15 hp disadvantage, which it ovecame with lower weight and gearing (plus some internal tweaks and different valving in '78).
1975 GL1000: 12.95
1980 GL1100 std: 13.18
1981 GL1100i: 12.47
1984 GL1200i: 12.67
1985 GL1200LTD:12.888
1088 GL1500: 13.06
2001 GL1800: 12.87
2004 GL180012.71
2009 GL180012.78
So as you can see, there isn't too much to choose between any of them. Many times riders will try and run their bike shifting right at redline or even hitting the rev limiter. This actually results in posting a slower e/t since the torque curve on all GL's is below redline. Same old story, ya gotta know your machine and when to shift
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The fuel relay(s), yes I hedged my bets and bid on two sets of switches/relays. Of course I won both. I will be getting them in the next couple of days. At least I can "check out" the switches and relays since my bike is torn down to the frame right now. I will keep a spare of everything and sell any "tested" ones that are extra. I can't work on it this weekend as I will be in Gainesville for the Gator game. My son is in the band for Florida and they are playing USF, which is where I met my wife:) Go Bulls!!!


Update: USF lost :( I put on a good fuel relay and another fuel pump that works great. Of course it still doesn't run on it's own, only if I add fuel....I pulled the carbs off today, now that I have fuel going to the carbs. Whenever Randall sends it out to me I will be going through them.


ok, I got the rebuild kit last week and finally had time last night to take one carb apart. WOW--One valve blocked one valve almost blocked with a black crud that had the consistancy of honey and the bottom of the bowl was covered by a 1/8" thick layer of what looked like toothpaste...all cleaned out and re-assembled, now I just need to find more time to do more carbs...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Great news....I slapped the carbs on and fired her up :D
I let it idle for several minutes and then turned it off. I restarted it several times like this and no leaks or stumbles. I know it needs to be synced, but wow it idles and revs up (3000k) nice. No backfires or noises. I need to bleed the brakes and put the seat and false tank back on. I think I will leave the lower fairing off for a little bit.

Still a lot of work to get her in riding shape but I will take her around the block soon to check her out some.
 
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