Hi, I'm new to the forum. I have a 1993 GL 1500, runs great, but I've started having an intermittent problem starting. Sometimes, I hit the start button and absolutely nothing happens. When I turn the key, all the lights go on, the radio goes on, the bike is in neutral, and side stand down, but the button doesn't make anything happen. After a few tries and some jiggling of the throttle, it finally works. I opened the switch box on the handle and I don't see any corrosion. Is this a problem with the starter or some loose connection? Any help is greatly appreciated.
intermittent starting problem
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starter button
I had the same problem on the start of a ride. '95 Aspy. Panicked; switched batteries, a friend noticed that the starter worked as the button was comming out. Fix: clean switch. Somewhere on the internet there is a step by step with photos I think it may Steve Saunders site or GoldwingFacts.
I had the same problem on the start of a ride. '95 Aspy. Panicked; switched batteries, a friend noticed that the starter worked as the button was comming out. Fix: clean switch. Somewhere on the internet there is a step by step with photos I think it may Steve Saunders site or GoldwingFacts.
I have never had that problem (starting intermittently) and in my opinion there are too many related devices involved in the starting system to attempt to make an intelligent diagnosis without using a good Gold Wing service manual.
I recommend a factory Technical Service Manual from Honda for your best results.
If I can be of any assistance don`t hesitate to let me know.
carboss
I went with the advice of Carl334. I took apart the switch, cleaned the contacts, and stretched the springs as described on the Goldwingfacts site. So far so good; seems to have solved the problem. Thanks to everybody, especially Carl 334
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691 Posts
I had the same problem on my 95 1500A. Switch cleaning did some good. Theen it started again. After some testing I found the solinoid knowwn to Honda as a magnetic switch. There is one by the battery that would click but I got no power out. Remover it, placed an ohm meter across the switch studs and activated the coil with 12v. No continuity. Have one on order. I need to pull the one on the lower rail by the fuutpeg mount and teest it.
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I'm reading this with great interest as I am having somewhat of the same problem.
Lonewolftx, have you any more testing results?
I replaced battery and solenoid A (next to battery). I have good voltage to and from the solenoid but less than 2 volts at the starter. Solenoid B (next to brake switch) has voltage on blue covered terminal when switch is depressed but the red covered terminal (wire goes to starter) is virtually non-existent. I also took starter button apart, cleaned and stretched springs and the like. It does make solenoid A click.
So am I solving my problem by replacing solenoid B or is there something else to check?
Thanks for any input.
Lonewolftx, have you any more testing results?
I replaced battery and solenoid A (next to battery). I have good voltage to and from the solenoid but less than 2 volts at the starter. Solenoid B (next to brake switch) has voltage on blue covered terminal when switch is depressed but the red covered terminal (wire goes to starter) is virtually non-existent. I also took starter button apart, cleaned and stretched springs and the like. It does make solenoid A click.
So am I solving my problem by replacing solenoid B or is there something else to check?
Thanks for any input.
I don't know much about the 1500's but most starter's will build up dust from the brushs inside the brush cap which causes the occational earthing from the brushs to the starter body. This is why auto electicians do exchange starters for older cars, set of brush's and a clean then sell to the next guy for 2/3 the price of a new item.
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WINGSTER
I dont know yet. I too got about 2vdc before I removed it but that would be voltage feedback from the ignition system. Ill let you know more when I get the relay in and test the system.
I dont know yet. I too got about 2vdc before I removed it but that would be voltage feedback from the ignition system. Ill let you know more when I get the relay in and test the system.
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691 Posts
Well, mine turned out to be just the a solinoid. Got it in and hit the button. She turned right over but wouldn't fire. I thought "Now what the h***? Looked over and the kill switch was in the off position. Kicked myself then hit the button. She fired right up and sat there purring. I love my rocket ship
Intermittent Starting Problems
I've experienced starting problems with my 2006 GL 1800 which I bought used a few months ago. I've been away from riding for a lot of years and just got back into it. Occasionally, when I hit the start button, I get a clicking noise from somewhere toward the rear from the battery. It usually starts after several attempts. More recently it would not start and I got a tow truck to attempt to jump start the battery. No luck, just clicking. As the truck drove off, I tried again and it started. Last week, same problem and haven't been able to start it. Just clicling. The battery is fully charged. I would appreciate any help in tracking down the problem. I am not the most mechanically inclined when it comes to MCs but I follow instructions well. Thanks
I've experienced starting problems with my 2006 GL 1800 which I bought used a few months ago. I've been away from riding for a lot of years and just got back into it. Occasionally, when I hit the start button, I get a clicking noise from somewhere toward the rear from the battery. It usually starts after several attempts. More recently it would not start and I got a tow truck to attempt to jump start the battery. No luck, just clicking. As the truck drove off, I tried again and it started. Last week, same problem and haven't been able to start it. Just clicling. The battery is fully charged. I would appreciate any help in tracking down the problem. I am not the most mechanically inclined when it comes to MCs but I follow instructions well. Thanks
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Paul,
Welcome to the forum and greetings from Florida.
I can give you a 'Laundry List' of areas to check: loose connections at the battery, dirty contacts in start button, worn bushing in clutch lever, bad clutch switch, bad side-stand switch, loose connection at starter, corrosion on connections, bad relay.
How old is the battery? Load test it.
Use meter to check the switches.
Check connections and tighten.
Use dielectric grease to protect exposed connections.
Spray contact cleaner into switch (avoid the one that ruins plastic).
Start with these items first.
Learn your Wing, a good factory service manual is a big help, there are maintenance DVD's that 'Show' you how things are done too. Asking others is also helps.
Welcome to the forum and greetings from Florida.
I can give you a 'Laundry List' of areas to check: loose connections at the battery, dirty contacts in start button, worn bushing in clutch lever, bad clutch switch, bad side-stand switch, loose connection at starter, corrosion on connections, bad relay.
How old is the battery? Load test it.
Use meter to check the switches.
Check connections and tighten.
Use dielectric grease to protect exposed connections.
Spray contact cleaner into switch (avoid the one that ruins plastic).
Start with these items first.
Learn your Wing, a good factory service manual is a big help, there are maintenance DVD's that 'Show' you how things are done too. Asking others is also helps.
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26,266 Posts
One of the most common "goofs" that we come across in the dealership is loose battery post connections. Bikes, atv's, sleds, all of them. Check them first they must real tight or even a boost won't help you (clicking noise just like a weak battery).
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This is to be done only in emergence, repeat only in an emergence. A few years back a riding buddy and I were up in British Columbia, ( Canada). After a lunch stop his 95, 1500 would not even try to start. after checking the battery and the voltage to Solenoid A we found it was not making contact when the starter button was pushed.
I dug out a screw driver, and with the key on and him pressing the start button I shorted across the two large terminal on the Solenoid.
Bingo it started right up. Again if you got to get home you can try this.
Replace the solenoid don't make a habit of this.
From the Northwest Corner.
Ron
I dug out a screw driver, and with the key on and him pressing the start button I shorted across the two large terminal on the Solenoid.
Bingo it started right up. Again if you got to get home you can try this.
Replace the solenoid don't make a habit of this.
From the Northwest Corner.
Ron
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7,671 Posts
The diagram shows the two cylindrical A & B Starter Magnets (solenoids or relays). # 8 & 10 on drawing.
Attachments
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You are right Trike Lady:
There are two Large Solenoids ( A ) and ( B ) plus the little ignition relay 6 over in the relay box.
The electrical sequence is:
1.Key on and power is applied to relay box on left side of bike. Which powers up the bike.
2. Press starter button and power is applied to relay #6
3. relay 6 applied activating voltage to solenoid A.
4. Solenoid A closes contacts and applies voltage to two places on Solenoid B. (a) the main starting voltage to one side of the large contacts. (b) it also passes an activating voltage to the coil of Solenoid B.
5. the activating voltage closed the main contact and passes the starting voltage onto the Starter..
6. Release the starter button. Relay 6 de energizes removing power the coil of Solenoid A, which in turn de energizes which in turn removes the energizing voltage to Solenoid B, it's contacts open and remove the voltage to the starter.
Now you all probably know more then you ever wanted to know about the starting sequence.
From the Northwest Corner
Ron
There are two Large Solenoids ( A ) and ( B ) plus the little ignition relay 6 over in the relay box.
The electrical sequence is:
1.Key on and power is applied to relay box on left side of bike. Which powers up the bike.
2. Press starter button and power is applied to relay #6
3. relay 6 applied activating voltage to solenoid A.
4. Solenoid A closes contacts and applies voltage to two places on Solenoid B. (a) the main starting voltage to one side of the large contacts. (b) it also passes an activating voltage to the coil of Solenoid B.
5. the activating voltage closed the main contact and passes the starting voltage onto the Starter..
6. Release the starter button. Relay 6 de energizes removing power the coil of Solenoid A, which in turn de energizes which in turn removes the energizing voltage to Solenoid B, it's contacts open and remove the voltage to the starter.
Now you all probably know more then you ever wanted to know about the starting sequence.
From the Northwest Corner
Ron
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691 Posts
Could be the starter switch. Let off of it a little and see if it cranks. From the sound of things, it sounds like the A solinoid which is mounted on the front of the battery box.
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