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Discussion Starter #1
Crusin down the highway and look down to see that my fuel and temp guages are flat, also no OD light. Reached my destination and did a walk around (including the trailer), found I had no marker lights on the bike (fairing side markers, trunk or headlamp side markers) or dash lamps OD, R, side stand, oil or fuel , the trailer seems fine. Checked fuses first, found the stop lamp fuse (15A) blown, replaced, brake lamps now work. Checked the fuse marked TAIL(trunk)/METER/POSITION, that fuse is good I have power to one side of the fuse holder so I'm suspecting a relay? Don't have my manual and the owners manual doesn't have anything on the relays, so I'm reaching out...is the fuse in front of the relay or after? I'ts dark now and I haven't dug into the relay box yet, any ideas?:(
 

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Whacker,
I'm not the electrical genius you were hoping for but write back what year bike you're riding. It might help.

If it's dark, it's gonna be tough until light. While waiting, I would double check the wiring from trailer as that is the likely or exposed problem area.

My bet is bike is ok the ad on (trailer is root cause) and that is lame troubleshooting from a laptop. I would disconnect the trailer lights and re try the bike -assuming you have another fuse.

good luck and where are you?
 

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Also,
easy enough to check the battery cables and trailer ground while at it until the calvary comes.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
OK Chopin, is there a secret message in there...BUMP?? What gives?
 

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OK Chopin, is there a secret message in there...BUMP?? What gives?
Damnit, Whacker. That's my way of keeping your post on the top of the heap pile. If I can't technically help you at least I can let you go in front of me . I'm doing all I can do here. Bump!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Choppin, now I understand and thank you! Not sure I'll be able to get anything resolved before leaving for home on friday, there are no Honda shops here in Springfiel MO...I'll be traveling during daylight hours!

For others watching, I'm riding a 2000SE
 

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Choppin, now I understand and thank you! Not sure I'll be able to get anything resolved before leaving for home on friday, there are no Honda shops here in Springfiel MO...I'll be traveling during daylight hours!

For others watching, I'm riding a 2000SE
Sleep tight. Things look different in the light of day. Bump!!!
 

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Assuming this is a 1500 I strongly suspect relay #3, that's the one for the dash,tail lights and meters.
Getting the relay box cover off can be a challenge some times. I loosen that bolts holding the left saddle bag in place enough to give some wiggle room for the relay box lid to come off.
Since you are on the road, just swap relay 3 with the relay for the compressor. I've had this happen to me and this got me home.

If it gives trouble again, I found that over the years the female connectors in the relay socket became a little loose from the extra current from extra lights and the trailer. You can tighten them by very , I say very careful pry them closed a little with a small screw driver, careful not to crack or brake the area around the connectors.
All the best to you
From the Northwest Corner
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks Ron, your tips for getting to the relay box were spot on, however.... Don't know if there were changes to the electrical year-to-year, but as I see it the marker relay is a 10 amp relay and the 20amp compressor relay will not swap. Though they look the same, the 20 amp has 2 extra tabs, perhaps to prevent using a higher amp in a lower slot. At this point I'll head out early enough to ensure travel in daylight, I've got the necessecities to travel, headlight, taillights, turns and brakes, I'll deal with the rest after getting home. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Bump!!!!!!
 

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MY wing is a 93 Aspencade that I've had since it was new. I hadn't heard or know of any changes to the basic fuse and relay boxes, but it could be.
Here is the deal with the fuses and the relays.
The relay is really just a control device ( a switch), on or off. I've never seen a relay in a circuit that has less current handling capability then the fuse protecting the circuits
The 15 amp. fuse limits the current that is provided for the circuit. If the current flow or draw exceeds the 15 amps the fuse blows and thing stop working.
If there was a 10 amp. relay preceded by a 15 amp fuse in there, I suspect it was a replacement relay at some time.
I'm betting the normal current draw for that circuit without any additional lights added is some where in the area of 7 to 8 amps if you have any added lights that could bring the current through the fuse and relay up to 10 or more amps exceeding the ratting of the relay contacts and cause damage to the contacts.
I wouldn't worry about replace that 10 amp. relay with a 20 amp. Like I said you have the 15 amp. fuse protecting the circuits.
I understand NAPA has a replacement relay ,but you have to do little modification the relay base. I've only used Honda relays and they are a little pricey about $30.00 the last time I bought any.
From the Northwest Corner
Keep us posted.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Honda could do a better job labeling components! OK update, 163mi home, no marker/position lights including the driving lamps and nothing on the dash other than N or the cruise lamps. Tore it all apart again in the garage, the 10 amp relay is marked position. Did some testing on it since it didn't seem to want to interchange with a 20amp and it checks fine. Next, went to the 20amp relay marked TAIL (MAIN) pulled it and swapped it with the adjacent STOP relay, now I have lights, including the brake lights. Going to assume that the relay opened during the ride the other night and stuck open, but find it odd that it had to open while already energized and closed, unless it had something to do with the STOP fuse blowing. Anyway, all is well at this time, may be ordering some new relays soon. Thanks for the input from all. :D
 

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It sounds to me like it was in relay 3 the Tail main. That is the little @#$#@%*&* that cause me grief for a time till i figured out the problem wasn't in the relay but the relay socket. If you have trouble again and I suspect you will. Try closing the female connectors in the relay socket. Do this very carefully if you look into the socket the connector should look something like this nn with the outsides connected to the base line. Very carefully pry down to force the unconnected end down toward the base some, it won't be much. Also flush the socket out with contact clears.
Four years ago relay 3 was causing me grief for some time till I figured out it was the socket.
Form the Northwest Corner
Ron
 

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Oh Yah thanks; Chopin for the bumps. I learned something here.
From the Northwest Corner
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'll be watching, but then again it won't be hard to notice since the signs are obvious. Since the relays aren't numbered, the #3 relay wasn't exactly obvious, take your pick on where to start, side, top or bottom...but as always, the forum came through. Thanks all!
 

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Good to hear you got things straightened out Whacker, electrical can be such a PITA to fix. It's too bad all the insurance companies took all the good slogans.. you were "in good hands" with all your "good neighbors" here on the site.
 
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