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Discussion Starter #1
my 89 GL1500 has developed an engine knock.
Only once warm, Only above 2500 rpm, but the warmer the bike, the lower rpm's she knocks.changed oil and filter twice.
Used a stethoscope,....many times, and its not the alt, its not the timing belts, and the noise continues with the clutch in, however, i cant get it to knock in neutral and not moving.It seems to be deep in the engine.
At first i thought a rod.....then piston slap, but this summer i rode from Michigan to TN 2 times......10 hrs each way, and the knock has remained the same. I think 2400 miles would have done in a rod or slapping piston by now.
the noise is consistent with rpm, not speed or gear, and knocks in all gears.
On a side note, inside the air box, forward right, the large vac line under the box....you know the one.....the hardest one to re attach....
makes almost the same noise when i run it with air cleaner off, like its a vent to the knock source.....i know thats a stretch, but a detail that caught my eye......never heard a vac source make that much racket before. searched the net for weeks,....ANY help would rock !!!
 

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Is it possible that it is in the valve train, and you have a sticky lifter????
 

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Discussion Starter #4
anything is possible at this point. Is that common? And what is the procedure to check?
 

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Without consulting the manual, I can't exactly say. I will tell you that myself and at least one other member added some Seafoam to the crankcase (as per the directions on the can for that procedure) ran the bikes for a few hundred miles (I think mine was actually about 150), then did an oil change and the engine got quieter.

It could also be a number of ither things I would imagine.
 

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Is there any way you could post a sound clip?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
no.....i have to be riding. sounds like a rod knock, but lighter......yet not as light as a push rod or rocker arm on a car.....am i being vague enough?....lol
If i rev the engine, nothing.,....if i hold the rpm's at 3 k parked.....nothing.......as i get to 2500 riding, its plain as day, even if i pull in the clutch and hold the rpm's.....its a head scratcher
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Im a mechanic.....been working on bikes for many years, and i know enough to know this sound from an engine is not normal......however, this is my first gold wing......and DAMN theres alot of extra stuff ive never seen before
 

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Hey Mat - As a kid one of my 1st bikes was a worn out old Honda 305 Dream. Once I had it running, as long as I kept a mix of straight 30 weight oil and some STP in the crankcase it purred like kitten. If I used a thinner multi-viscosity oil, both rods knocked like the tracks on a D9 bulldozer rolling by.

You didn't mention the bike's trailer pulling history or the mileage but perhaps as an experiment - you could briefly try a change to 30W oil just to see if the noise softens or even disappears.

Ride Safe - Michael
 

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Discussion Starter #11
well as a test before last oil change i dumped in an entire bottle of Lucas........changed the pitch, but didnt stop the noise at all. no trailer .....over 140k miles
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well.....learned alot about GoldWings this month, lol.
After writing another thread about the noise coming from my Pair valve, air shot system, a gentalman told me my Pair valve is bad or broken, and added...." they can really make alot of noise and cause a lean condition".
So down into the depths of my bike i went.
I was able to get a long extension to the pair valve to listen to it ( by removing half the bike ), and sure enough, at 2500 rpm that thing starts to sound like the drums from Jumanji !
The tell tail key was a massive amount of noise coming from the line in the air cleaner box from the 45 degree inlet tube.
so i guess this winter......i learn how to remove entire top of engine...........yay?
Thanks for everyones input, i learned alot !!
 

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While you have the top torn down, change all the vacuum lines, you will probably find they are very dry, maybe even a few that are compromised. Additionally, purchase two new rubber boots for the connections of the carbs to the intake manifold. They will no doubt be extremely hard (almost hockey puck hard), and the new ones will be supple.

Been there, done that.

The info on this web site may aid you as well. I used this gentleman's site to make vacuum line repairs on my 1500.

 

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Discussion Starter #14
my bike needs a Weber 2 barrel , lol
anyone make an adapter?
I also have a carb pair from a 99 , i hear the 89 carbs are junk, so might rebuild those for the epic rebuild
 

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Discussion Starter #15
so today....rather than rip out entire top of engine......i unbolted and removed all 6 metal air shot lines going to the head from the pair valve system........cut them off 1 inch from the port on the head side......crimped them shut and brazed the ends,.....and re installed.
no more vac leaks.....no more broken pair valve sucking air at all times.....no more lean condition.....and my bike has NEVER run this good in all the years ive owned it.
Is this the correct way to fix it?......prob not.....was it 3 hrs sitting next to the bike rather then removing entire top of engine, with the same , if not better results?
yes.
the pair valve air source is the impossible to re attach line going into the air box....thats only supposed to pull air when on de cell.....mine was pulling hard if the bike was running, period.
I would guess.....a 300% lean condition.....those are big lines. So happy i didnt melt a valve.
Bike is running cooler now to, a nice side effect.
and yes.....that wicked knocking tapping sucking sound is gone.
 

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not to hijack the thread but while this is still fresh I have some questions related to this subject. I just bought a 96 that had been sitting. I ran seafoam through ang got it running decent
However, it is running very Lean and won't idle. I did the spray starting fluid around carbs while running and got not change so I'm guessing my vacuum lines are OK
BUT while messing with it I found the hose from the pair valve (just learned this even exist) system is under vacuum if the motor is running and the more throttle you give it the stronger it gets
if what I just read above is correct then my pair valve system is faulty. if I have it open it will rattle or knock a little here and there, but can't here it once the air filter is back together. So what I would like to ask is how do you test the system to find what has failed and what is the correct way to repair it. I am about to pull my carb and rebuild it based on the fact I can't get it to idle smooth, it surges all the time and unless I have the thumb screw would all the way down it will die after it surges a few times. Now I'm wondering if I shouldn't fix or correct this first
 

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Discussion Starter #17
remove top of air box and air filter......at forward right youll see a plastic sideways vac tube....from what i understand, that should NOT draw a hard vac as you rev up the bike....and should only draw as the engine slows down to lean out un burned fuel.... Mine was sucking at all times, plus make the damndest noise you ever heard.
if it tried to suck your finger off as you hit the gas, that means all 6 pistons are pulling massive amounts of extra air as you rev up the bike........major lean condition.
I would suggest you remove entire top of engine and replace all your rubber, and maybe the pair valve. My fix was my choice only.....and removing emissions is frowned upon in most states;)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
side note........3 pistons on 1 side all share an air shot tank ( check valve assembly )......as do the other 3 on other side. So if you just try to plug the line to the air box, the pistons drawing air are then drawing from pistons that are NOT and back and forth,and causes a bad disruption of flow, and a massive loss of power......yes i tried it.
the entire pair valve/ air shot system is a stand alone system, and has no effect, and is not effected by any other systems
 

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OK not saying I will or would do what you did but I definitely have no intentions of pulling the top of the motor. so having said that the lines you cut and sealed, where do they go or what do they connect to, what makes them work, is there a valve on the block that opens and closes. I have trying to look this up but I just keep seeing pictures of the 2 valves in the side fairing and some vacuum lines going to the carb
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
This is for a Valkyrie, but short of the 6 carbs, its the same engine, same emissions system.
go to the 4 min mark to see the pair, the 2 check valve assemblies, and the 6 metal lines running to your head.
I left all that on my engine, and removed the lines from the head, and plugged them each.
On a gold wing you might have to loosen and raise intake alittle to get end lines out of the head if u cant reach the metal line running out of it, as a flange on the intake holds 1 in the head on each side. front on left.....back on right.
I did NOT use the kit.....i cut of the metal line from the end 1 inch from inlet, crimped it and sealed it, and simply re installed the ends on the head
 
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