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1978 Honda Goldwing GL1000
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I picked up a 1978 honda goldwing gl1000 and was told it runs, so far it only seems to have one cylinder that is firing, right rear. It's also frying the accessories fuse. 5amp. For curiosity I put a 10 amp, oil light worked for a second and then it blew that. Was wondering if I can get some pointers on where to look for the causes. pulled the plugs and they don't look soaked. at first thought it was fuel, doesn't seem to be. Thanks and Glad to finally be a goldwing owner.
 

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Time to dig out the volt/ohm meter and start following all the wires and see which circuit or wires are grounded to blow the fuses. It will also help you get familiar with the bike as you look for the fault. That's all that I personally would do to start. Remember to use the KISS method: keep it simple stupid. Not trying to be offensive as I have done this also many times. Older bikes like that are easier to work on and fun to ride when you get it running good. Also a sense of pride in knowing that you did it ALL BY YOURSELF! My step son's favorite comment when he does something.
 

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1978 Honda Goldwing GL1000
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
time to go get a cheap harbor freight meter as I don't have one on hand, other thing I found was a white wire, and a white with I wanna say blue stripe disconnected on the left side just behind the faux tank
 

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I know that RayJ has a couple classic Wings in his garage that he is tinkering with. He mentions another Forum for the 1000 cc models. I'm not positive but I did find this one in a quick search;
Home | www.classicwingclub.org
But I'm not sure that is the right one.
 
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1978 Honda Goldwing GL1000
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I do know that I have an issue that I can go probe around with basic tests. my 5amp fuse for the gauges, pops when key on. even with a 10 amp in there it goes pop after a few seconds
 

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I do know that I have an issue that I can go probe around with basic tests. my 5amp fuse for the gauges, pops when key on. even with a 10 amp in there it goes pop after a few seconds
I wouldn't be installing a 10A fuse in a 5A slot, that could wind up being a very expensive fuse.
 

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1978 Honda Goldwing GL1000
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I mean, it's a basic glass fuse and I have a box. But that was just testing to see the severity of the draw. the 10amp lasted a few seconds. gonna try unplugging the signal to the gas gauge as well as the 7 volt thing to see what is causing it if I can figure out which side is causing the short. if it's the gauges side of the 7 volt then something is grounding out that shouldn't be if it's fine then it's accessories.
 

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That fuse when the ignition switch is turned on feeds back to the lighting unit. If you look at the schematic I posted above you will see it is the Brown and Gray wire from the ignition switch. It also feed the illumination for the gauges via the Brown/White wire.
 

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so what do you think is causing the short? could it be the
Something to try, turn the key to the PARK (ACC) position and then check fuse #4, fuse #4 connect the 12V ignition to the Lighting Unit in the PARK (ACC) position, if fuse #4 blows then your issue is in the Lighting Unit. Fuse #3 (the one that is blowing) gets it power from the ignition switch, when the switch is turned on Fuse #3 supplies power to the gauge illumination circuit and also to the Lighting Unit, Turn Signal Switch and to the Head Light Dimmer Switch. I'd suggest unplugging the turn signal harness then check your fuse, this will eliminate that part of the circuit, if your fuse doesn't blow then your problem is in the Turn Signal/Head Light Dimmer circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Something to try, turn the key to the PARK (ACC) position and then check fuse #4, fuse #4 connect the 12V ignition to the Lighting Unit in the PARK (ACC) position, if fuse #4 blows then your issue is in the Lighting Unit. Fuse #3 (the one that is blowing) gets it power from the ignition switch, when the switch is turned on Fuse #3 supplies power to the gauge illumination circuit and also to the Lighting Unit, Turn Signal Switch and to the Head Light Dimmer Switch. I'd suggest unplugging the turn signal harness then check your fuse, this will eliminate that part of the circuit, if your fuse doesn't blow then your problem is in the Turn Signal/Head Light Dimmer circuit.
the weird thing is my back lighting, headlight dimmer light, turn signals work fine. It's my oil pressure, neutral light, fuel and volt fuse that is just going out every time. I tried disconnecting the fuel level sensor to see if that did anything (it didn't)
 

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I know that RayJ has a couple classic Wings in his garage that he is tinkering with. He mentions another Forum for the 1000 cc models. I'm not positive but I did find this one in a quick search;
Home | www.classicwingclub.org
But I'm not sure that is the right one.
most likely he's talking about the naked goldwing club
 
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1996 Honda GoldWing Interstate, Candy Spectra Red, and of course, with drive shaft.
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I wouldn't be installing a 10A fuse in a 5A slot, that could wind up being a very expensive fuse.
I think he used sufficient caution to warrant it….and now he knows it’s a dead short, not just an overload. But, yeah, escalating to a 15 or 20 amp would not be prudent at this point.
 
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