Honda Goldwing Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
The wire going into the coils is hot. The plug doesn't spark. Do those safety interrupter things affect the ground for instance? Hot wire in seems like a spark would be there. Like hotwire ran from my battery to the positive on my coil should hotwire the bike, so if the in wire is hot, where is my spark?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,809 Posts
First of all, welcome to the forum.

What year bike are we talking about? You need both a positive and a trigger pulse to create the spark on a coil.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
795 Posts
Hey Oaks - Has anyone been into the bike's wiring harness recently ? Is this an unexpected problem Has your bike ever run correctly ? The two small PULSE GENERATORS are located under the timing belt cover. They each send a signal up to the IGNITION UNITE which then produces the alternate ground signals to the coils. There is a major GROUND point for the ignition circuitry located on the Voltage Regulator mounting bracket (Multiple Green Wires). Make sure to look at the wiring multi-pin connectors under the false tank area for a bad connection. A quick test for the circuit ground is to turn the key ON and then hit the horn button. If the horn "sounds" OK, the IGNITION UNITE is grounded.

If still you have no spark - it is sometimes the pulse generators or the wires headed up to the ignition unite. You might also open up the IGNITION UNITE (small phillips head screws) to look and/or smell for any burned components.

Keep Us Posted - Michael
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I know I am liking the mind you have. I bought the bike a year ago and it had sat several years. It has compression and I got the actual switches to fire off the first time I tried it. Turned over. Then the key switch was shorting so I replaced it. Now the neutral indicator that DID show neutral once for that attempt does not show green at all. If I recollect that is. Was thinking of that indicator switch in the transmission. Does that help? New switch was used but seems it works.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
795 Posts
Hey Oaks – Don’t worry about the neutral light at this point as long as the starter spins when the starter button is pressed and the transmission is in neutral. From your description of what is going on it sounds like you are chasing multiple wiring issues. Please let us know “Since you’ve owned this bike - Has it EVER RAN ?” This makes a big difference in troubleshooting……

Each pair of sparkplugs are actually fired by a completely separate circuit within the IGNITION UNITE. With all four spark plugs removed, attached to their sparkplug wires and each pair of plugs laying (grounded) against the engine case - “AT NIGHT” check for any sign of a spark while the bike’s battery is jumpered with hot car battery.

Many times an older bike that’s been dead in the water for years, it’s spark is too weak to be seen in the daylight. Pull the headlight fuse then with a car battery added to boost the available current to both spin the starter and provide power to the coils – even a weak spark can be seen in the dark.

Try This and Keep us posted - Michael
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
never ran yet. I think it doesn't switch start, well some reason I been touching the things together at the battery. I believe it did that first time but it never went back to the green neutral. So the regular button didn't work. I had it in gear. Seemed like no matter how much I try it won't go green even rolled it some, no light
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
795 Posts
Hey Oaks - To help troubleshoot your wiring problems and sort out the lack of ignition you are really going to need a good maintenance manual. Take a look at one of the "Clymer Manuals" on Ebay. They are often considered to be the most bang for the buck and includes tune-up instructions, thorough individual component descriptions, many sections on troubleshooting and all the wiring diagrams.

Also since your bike has been off the road and sitting for so long - you will probably need the information needed to give the fuel system (pump, filter, carburetors and gas tank) some attention to get her running.

Keep Us Posted - Michael
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Got one. Did my carbs. Vinegar in the tank. Think it would crank if I find the reason she did roll at first green neutral light never got back on. Betting that neutral switch thing is bad myself. Amateur though
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
795 Posts
Hey Oaks – Did the previous tell you why this bike was parked ? There is sometimes a reason or problem they couldn't figure out and this information may help in troubleshooting. Since you have a manual - have you read about how the gear selector position switch works and looked at the schematic ? This 5 position switch on the 85 Interstate GW only uses three of it’s output contacts.

Position 1 = Not Used
Position 2 = Ground for starter Relay and Dash Neutral Lite
Position 3 = Not Used
Position 4 = Ground Sent to Ignition Unite On Green/Orange Wire (Sets Correct Motor Timing for 4 th Gear RPM)
Position 5 = Ground Sent to Ignition Unite On Red/White Wire (Sets Correct Motor Timing for 5 th Gear RPM)

The Gear Position Selector Sw has nothing to do with (if) the Ground Signals from the ignition unite to the coils are missing. Did you test for a Spark at the plugs at night ?

Keep Us Posted - Michael
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Well, is there a way to hotwire that? One thing is if the fire is at the coil , again unless the ground gets interrupted. Right? I get fire to the coil. Why would that thing do it if fire is to the coil now?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
795 Posts
Sorry but just can't follow your questions - Again here is the Ignition Sequence, with the Key On Battery power is sent to one side of the ignition coils - the other end of the two coils alternately receive a ground signal as an output pulse from the Ignition Control Unite. The Ignition Control Unite receives it's input pulses from the pulse generators (under the timing belt cover). With the Ignition Control Unite working properly, the bike's timing is being initially set by the Inputs received from the Pulse Generators. As you ride the timing is ONLY ADJUSTED from the initial (basic) settings at higher RPM, Ground Speed and Load when in the 4th and 5th gear by the Gear Selector Position Switch. **** There is also a small vacuum hose to the Ignition Control Unite which (like the vacuum to a car distributor) will slightly tweak the timing under hard acceleration.

Here is an old simplified wiring diagram I found -
274077
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top