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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought a 1979 gl1000. I spent the last two days trying to get something to happen when I turn the key. I'm gonna need some help.:confused:
 

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Welcome to the forums....people here are great....they are more then willing to help. Just sit back, relax...the rest of the nuts will be along soon
 

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Welcome to the forums....people here are great....they are more then willing to help. Just sit back, relax...the rest of the nuts will be along soon
Whoaa there Big Fella, carefull how you talk about my friends:D

Ok down to the problem
What's it doing or not doing and how long has it been since it was run last.
1. I think they had the kill switch also, make sure it's in the run position.
2. How old is the battery ???Just because it might crank the engine over, doesn't mean it good.
3. I think they had a fuel shut off valve ???. make sure it's on.
Don't want to insult your or talk down to you just got to start some place.
Pretty more will be along. The more information about what it's doing and not doing helps.
 

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Welcome to the forums....people here are great....they are more then willing to help. Just sit back, relax...the rest of the nuts will be along soon
Welcome from one of the "nuts" in Texas, this forum is great for advice.....and sometimes the advice actually fixes something. But I'll warn you now, it's also addictive.:D
 

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i cant help you fix nothing , but welcome to the forums
 

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Welcome to the forum.....
 

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Welcome to the Forum from another Texan. Can't help you on the repairs, but there are plenty on the Forum that can.
 

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Hi Dennwhite, and welcome to the Forum. It's like going to the MD: What are the symptoms of the patient? I just brought an '85 Aspencade to life after no-start and sitting for years, so do not be discouraged. It may be something pretty simple.

But for those more knowledgeable, and there are plenty on this forum, they need a detailed description of what is and not happening, then they'll lay out a checklist to follow toward a diagnosis. Imagine that you are on a motorcycle version of "House," just without the typical near-death experience!
 

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Hello and welcome, as stated before, we need a little more information.
 

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Welcome to the forum. Need more info for people to help you. Enjoy the site.
 

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hello dennwhite, welcome to GWOF
change all those 1979 fuses regardless to how they look
 

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Welcome from one of the "nuts" in Texas, this forum is great for advice.....and sometimes the advice actually fixes something. But I'll warn you now, it's also addictive.:D
Has the addiction made you so nutty Steve.

And, welcome to the forum. These guys and gals here are top hat.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
79 Goldwing

Here goes. I hope this is where you want to see this.

The person I bought if from said that they put at least 3k on it last year. They were trying to charge the battery for this season and sparks flew and they backed off. So I bought it non-running. I got it home, removed the side cover for the battery and found a lot of melted wiring running up from the solenoid. The ground wire to the battery looked good. The positive wire from the battery to the solenoid looked good. The black wire coming from below, to the solenoid looks good. There were two red wires, coming from the harness above the battery that were combined to one eyelet that ran through a melted plastic connector. One of the red wires had something between the plastic connector and the solenoid. Maybe a fuse at one time, but really couldn't tell now. One of the red wires going up from the solenoid looked o.k. the other one was bare and pretty much gone. I snipped the worst red wire up into the harness, right about at the center of and above the battery, spliced a new wire, ran it down to the solenoid. I cut out the plastic connector and spliced both red wires into an eyelet an connected it to the solenoid under the positive wire coming from the battery.
I charged the battery, it reads 12.7 v.
Thanks in advance for any and all help.
 

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hello dennwhite, welcome to GWOF
change all those 1979 fuses regardless to how they look
Yes, definitely change the fuses. They probably destroyed more than one when they apparently hooked up the charger incorrectly.

If they melted wires they might have done even more damage. :(
 

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Welcome along. While you're erplacing some of that toasted wiring, give all the other ok 'looking' wires a bit of a hand test. Just because they might look ok, doesn't mean they are, they could be somewhat burnt inside and brittle (smalle cracks inside the plastic covers) and not conducting properly. What was on the wire that had something on it I have no clue. If you can locate a shop manual that will help. If you don't have any luck with the manual, PM me and I'll see what I can pull up off the dealer site.
 

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I'll just say, welcome to the forum and leave it at that. I'm useless when it comes to fixing anything. Good luck and ride safe when you get her running..
 

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Can't help with this but can give a big welcome from Down Under
 

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Hi and welcome to the forum,
I am not sure of your mechanical back ground or of your tool selection. so let us know what diagnostic tools you have.
anything you need can be rented at Auto zone or Napa auto parts.
I would suggest to buy a 12 volt test light as they are cheap and can aid in a speedy repair.
I would also suggest keeping the repair simple at first and check all the basics. If the original owner caused this problem by charging
the battery I would guess that perhaps the battery may have a dead cell. this can be checked or simply replace the battery as it is good insurance to protect the charging system from being over worked. I am thinking that the original owner had his bike on charge and tried to start it while it was on the charger. if so this may have overheated the wiring due to high amperage demand and low amperage supply. at this point the circuits that are left powered during the cranking process could have been damaged.
with a fresh battery or a tested good battery ( all the cells ) turn the key on and check with a DVOM or a test light check each fuse on the bike on both sides of the fuse for 12 volts and write down your findings it is possible with an older harness and a new fuse that you could have power on one side of the fuse but not the other side due to corrosion. so if you find that your fuses all check out properly and they have power on them with the key in the run position. test this again with the starter button pushed to see what if any circuits have power on them while cranking. I would not be surprised if the starter solenoid is burnt up if the bike was cranked over with a dead cell in the battery and on a battery charger. I have seen this happen on cars where the solenoid gets welded in the on position and the engine continues to crank until the wiring gets burnt in two or the vehicle catches fire. I could go on and on but I think you need to check the basics and let us know your findings so we can advise you further.
 

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Knelson has a bunch of good advice above. One thing that really concerns me is that fried wire that went up into a harness. If it got hot enough to melt stuff out side the harness. Is very possible that there may be other damage inside the harness to other wire in the harness that were in contact with it. You might want to strip some the wrap off the harness and inspect the other wires.
 
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