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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, greetings from Ireland 馃嚠馃嚜.
Just purchased a 1986 gl1200 aspencade, hasn't run in near 10 years , been stored in a shed so I guess I have a long road ahead of me and any help will be appreciated .. things such as should I try see will it turn over without checking the timing belts or am I better stripping her down and replace belts before I try even start it.???
Thanks for letting me join
Ken
 

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My recommendation is to first make sure you have a free engine before spending any money, if in doubt take the cover off and make sure the belt is not broke and then remove the plugs and turn it over by hand. In neutral with the plugs out it should not be a problem. That being said I would also recommend that you put a little oil in each cylinder before turning it over.
 

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Welcome to the forum. What part of Ireland do you live in? My wife and I visited your beautiful country 2 years ago and were very impressed.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My recommendation is to first make sure you have a free engine before spending any money, if in doubt take the cover off and make sure the belt is not broke and then remove the plugs and turn it over by hand. In neutral with the plugs out it should not be a problem. That being said I would also recommend that you put a little oil in each cylinder before turning it over.
I am very grateful for your replies guys , thank you so much .
live in the North East of Ireland, in county louth .
 

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Welcome to the GWOF.
 

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Welcome to you from Mississippi. I'm not much help with the 1200's, but there are many on here who will offer advice. Good luck with your restore.
 
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Welcome from the northern tier of PA. Barry's advice sounds good for a start. Change all the fluids and of course tires. Good luck. Enjoy the forum and ride safe.
 
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Welcome to GWOF from Down Under. It would have to be in really good shape before I would go to the trouble of bring this classic back to life.
To see what I had to start with I would:

1/ Pull the spark plug and put some oil into the cylinders. Leave it for a week.

2/ Spray some RP7 into the Cylinders and try and turn it over by hand.

3/ If it turns over, clean the fuel tank and carbies.

4/ Now do a compression test.

5/ If that is good. Put some fuel in the tank, full chock, spray starting fluid into the carbies while trying to start it. Keep spraying the starter fluid until it fires up properly.

6/ Run the motor until it settles down. Now put some two stroke through the carbies. It will smoke a lot and need a bit of throttle to keep it running. But it will help if there are any sticking valves.

7/ If all has gone well, time to change all of the rubber bits. Timing belts, radiator hoses. Check for rust pits on the forks. If all is good there, replace the fork seals and fork oil.

8/ Time to check the brakes.

9/ Replace the tires and go for a ride. If you get to that point.......................I will have a few more jobs for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Welcome to GWOF from Down Under. It would have to be in really good shape before I would go to the trouble of bring this classic back to life.
To see what I had to start with I would:

1/ Pull the spark plug and put some oil into the cylinders. Leave it for a week.

2/ Spray some RP7 into the Cylinders and try and turn it over by hand.

3/ If it turns over, clean the fuel tank and carbies.

4/ Now do a compression test.

5/ If that is good. Put some fuel in the tank, full chock, spray starting fluid into the carbies while trying to start it. Keep spraying the starter fluid until it fires up properly.

6/ Run the motor until it settles down. Now put some two stroke through the carbies. It will smoke a lot and need a bit of throttle to keep it running. But it will help if there are any sticking valves.

7/ If all has gone well, time to change all of the rubber bits. Timing belts, radiator hoses. Check for rust pits on the forks. If all is good there, replace the fork seals and fork oil.

8/ Time to check the brakes.

9/ Replace the tires and go for a ride. If you get to that point.......................I will have a few more jobs for you.
Hi Eric, thank you for your tips, are you saying to try see if it runs without first checking or changing the timing belts?
Thanks again
 

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Hi Eric, thank you for your tips, are you saying to try see if it runs without first checking or changing the timing belts?
Thanks again
Yes, I would because the chance of them breaking while seeing if it will run is worth the chance. The money that this bike is going to need is high. Think about just how much the parts are going to cost. Even the simple things like, two tires, battery, rubbers for the brake system, timing belts, carby kit.
If you can prove that it runs, then all of the others cost can be justified. I have never added things up for my 1200 but I would have spent more than $3,000 on it. But I have now done over 80,000 miles on it. And I have made it home from every trip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes, I would because the chance of them breaking while seeing if it will run is worth the chance. The money that this bike is going to need is high. Think about just how much the parts are going to cost. Even the simple things like, two tires, battery, rubbers for the brake system, timing belts, carby kit.
If you can prove that it runs, then all of the others cost can be justified. I have never added things up for my 1200 but I would have spent more than $3,000 on it. But I have now done over 80,000 miles on it. And I have made it home from every trip.
Thanks again Eric ,
Your advice is daunting yet encouraging . May I ask what rp7 is??
It's so good to get good advice , such a pity your so far away , otherwise I'd have you on speeddial ha ha
 

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RP7 is a lubricant in a spray can. Works well where there is rust.

I am not a bad spannerman. There are some that are a lot better at wrenching that me.
If you get stuck on something with the 1200 and if I think I can help I will.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
RP7 is a lubricant in a spray can. Works well where there is rust.

I am not a bad spannerman. There are some that are a lot better at wrenching that me.
If you get stuck on something with the 1200 and if I think I can help I will.
Ahhhh it's kinda like wd40 over here, thanks again for a your wise words.
Ill he putting oil in the cylinders later and start the process
 

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Ahhhh it's kinda like wd40 over here, thanks again for a your wise words.
Ill he putting oil in the cylinders later and start the process
It is a long road but, what a great bike. My 1200 now has 150,000 miles on her. I maybe a bit of a dreamer, but I would love to see 200,000 miles on it.
Tire Wheel Vehicle Fuel tank Automotive fuel system
Tire Wheel Vehicle Fuel tank Automotive lighting
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·

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Welcome to the forum from North Carolin. Congratulations on your new ride. The 1200s are great bikes. Here is a link to a model breakdown and another to download a factory repair manual. Keep us posted on your progress.


 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Welcome to the forum from North Carolin. Congratulations on your new ride. The 1200s are great bikes. Here is a link to a model breakdown and another to download a factory repair manual. Keep us posted on your progress.


Hi tourer
Wow !!! Thank you so much for that .
Much appreciated . I cant wait to get this up and running and on the road
Regards
Ken
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Welcome to GWOF from Down Under. It would have to be in really good shape before I would go to the trouble of bring this classic back to life.
To see what I had to start with I would:

1/ Pull the spark plug and put some oil into the cylinders. Leave it for a week.

2/ Spray some RP7 into the Cylinders and try and turn it over by hand.

3/ If it turns over, clean the fuel tank and carbies.

4/ Now do a compression test.

5/ If that is good. Put some fuel in the tank, full chock, spray starting fluid into the carbies while trying to start it. Keep spraying the starter fluid until it fires up properly.

6/ Run the motor until it settles down. Now put some two stroke through the carbies. It will smoke a lot and need a bit of throttle to keep it running. But it will help if there are any sticking valves.

7/ If all has gone well, time to change all of the rubber bits. Timing belts, radiator hoses. Check for rust pits on the forks. If all is good there, replace the fork seals and fork oil.

8/ Time to check the brakes.

9/ Replace the tires and go for a ride. If you get to that point.......................I will have a few more jobs for you.
Hi Eric,
Managed to get a key sorted for the bike, electrically all seems to be working ....lights, brake lights , radio , compressor ...
I just tipped the starter button by accident for a split sec and she engaged, but I did notice that the shot off switch was in the off position , thought that was odd. opened the fuel tank and its bone dry and looks clean, im wondering if the previous owner drained the tank for winter storage or something .. bought a plug wrench so I'm gonna take out plugs and pour some oil down and leave it for a bit, then I might pop her into top gear and see can I rotate the engine, or am I better taking timing cover off and turn it from there?
Sorry for all the questions
Regards
Ken
 

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Welcome from sunny Tucson, Arizona. Nice bike you have, hope she works out well for you.
 

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Hi Eric, thank you for your tips, are you saying to try see if it runs without first checking or changing the timing belts?
Thanks again
mystery oil in the cyl's in the cars, in the tank,an ounce or 2 in the crank case..if and when ut starts a cpl ounces in every tank for 7 or 899 miles..all my bikes pre 1995 get a cpl oz's w/every fill up
 
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