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I know threads like this are common, but I've done my homework. 2006 GL1800 (comfort/nav). I have 11.2 Vdc on black/yellow wire at FI relay under seat while cranking. Below is just a test light, but I've confirmed with a volt meter. Side stand, kill switch, bank sensor all good. Connected oscilloscope to ignition pulse generator and below is a screen shot of the results. It appears to be working but I'm not complete confident in the results. The V p-p is much higher than what others have reported but the waveform looks appropriate and the period seems right for 6 pulses/rev (unless the rotating piece has more than 6 arms) at cranking speed. The white/yellow and yellow at the ECU were measured to eliminate wiring/connector problem on the IPG circuit. I'm dreading the next suggestion as ECU failures are very unlikely. If anyone has a suggestion other than an ECU replacement, I am more than open to suggestions.
 

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I know threads like this are common, but I've done my homework. 2006 GL1800 (comfort/nav). I have 11.2 Vdc on black/yellow wire at FI relay under seat while cranking. Below is just a test light, but I've confirmed with a volt meter. Side stand, kill switch, bank sensor all good. Connected oscilloscope to ignition pulse generator and below is a screen shot of the results. It appears to be working but I'm not complete confident in the results. The V p-p is much higher than what others have reported but the waveform looks appropriate and the period seems right for 6 pulses/rev (unless the rotating piece has more than 6 arms) at cranking speed. The white/yellow and yellow at the ECU were measured to eliminate wiring/connector problem on the IPG circuit. I'm dreading the next suggestion as ECU failures are very unlikely. If anyone has a suggestion other than an ECU replacement, I am more than open to suggestions.
.

Welcome to the forum, sorry it was a problem that is your first post. You seem to have done your homework but I'll offer this. I'm not sure what the FI relay supplies power to but any engine needs three things to start, fire, fuel and oxygen. Since you're saying it is "cranking" I'll assume the engine is turning over. Have you checked to see if there is a spark at the plugs? That is where the 6 pulses are the most important and you can work your way back from there. I would pull a plug to see if there is any spark there.

Good luck. I'm sure others will chime in to try to help also.

Steve
 

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if it has been in storage, have you checked the air filter for a mouse nest? had that happen with my old CX500. imagine my reaction when i opened the air-box, and a mouse jumped out, leaving a few pinkies behind. :wink2:


~Travis
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the tips.

I checked for spark at the plugs and worked backward.

The fuel pump turns on for 2 seconds, then turns off as normally.


The FI light is lit after the key is turned on, then turns off when the FI relay is energized. The FI light never relights. I checked for spark at the spark plug and as suspected, nothing.


There is 12Vdc at the bk/yl wires at each of the ignition coils. The wire colors other than green have no voltage during crank. I believe this implies the ECU is not firing the coils.

I also cleaned the K&N air filter while I was this far. It was fairly clean.

I've purchased this goldwing wrecked and never owned one before. But the damage is actually quite minimal. The crash bars did their job except on the left side. That head cover and right handlebar will get replaced. I can't wait to get it going. It must be like first class riding with cruise control, nav, heated grips and seat. I'm going to feel spoiled.
 

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not knowing the details of a GL1800, my first guess here would be to check the kill switch, and attached wiring. do you have a service manual? they usually have a good troubleshooting section with specifics i am unaware of.
on my bike (GL1500), there are some seemingly unrelated systems that kill the engine, and some obvious ones. like having the side stand down while in gear. i am assuming you checked fuses? on the damaged handlebar, did any wires get wiped out?
I wouldn't rush to judge the ECU. if it is actually good, and you replace it, you are out a bunch of money, and still have issues to locate.


~Travis
 

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Thanks for the tips.

I checked for spark at the plugs and worked backward.

The fuel pump turns on for 2 seconds, then turns off as normally.


The FI light is lit after the key is turned on, then turns off when the FI relay is energized. The FI light never relights. I checked for spark at the spark plug and as suspected, nothing.


There is 12Vdc at the bk/yl wires at each of the ignition coils. The wire colors other than green have no voltage during crank. I believe this implies the ECU is not firing the coils.

I also cleaned the K&N air filter while I was this far. It was fairly clean.

I've purchased this goldwing wrecked and never owned one before. But the damage is actually quite minimal. The crash bars did their job except on the left side. That head cover and right handlebar will get replaced. I can't wait to get it going. It must be like first class riding with cruise control, nav, heated grips and seat. I'm going to feel spoiled.
Ok, now that you mentioned it was wrecked, you might want to check out the Bank Angle Sensor (also referred to as the tip over sensor by some folks). I know that when I dropped my 1800 it shut off and would not start right back up. I had to cycle the key but since yours was in an accident it may have damaged that sensor.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Travis,

I've worked on all of my bikes and I've never experienced of an ECU/ECM failure. Not saying they don't happen but I'm having a hard time accepting it, too. With a good IPG signal at the ECM and no ground signal from the ECM to the coils, I may have to accept it.

The kill switch would prevent the FI relay from energizing. I have checked all fuses. I've inspected all of the wiring for damage. Lots of road debris on the connectors up front. But the red 2P connector for the IPG is behind a rubber sleeve and protected. I've actually bypassed the bank angle sensor (red/green) just to eliminate that.

I have a mediocre service manual. I've found only the electrical wiring diagram of any use.

There are a few items that keep the engine from cranking like side stand, reverse switch, key cylinder, starter relay, etc... But this is cranking great. Especially with a car battery instead of the dead battery that I got with the bike.
 

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I understand if you are frustrated, i was just trying to think of things to help. mainly to flush out what you have done, and what your experience level is. if you don't like my help, i will peacefully sit on the sidelines.


~Travis
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Travis,

I apologize if I did not sound appreciative, that is definitely not the case. The help you offered was sound advice. Especially, the ECU. A lot of people rush to blame it and it is very rarely ever the cause. This forum offer great help not only in the experiences and knowledge but by provoking ones' thoughts. It's this site which provided almost all of the information that helped me thus far.

Knowing that someone will be reading this in the future, I went into other details that may help someone down the road with their problem. Especially the IPG connector to the left of the cruise control module; that took me forever to find its location. And the bank sensor in front of the right radiator took me a while to find, also. This is my first Goldwing and I am REALLY anxious to ride it.

I've reluctantly purchased an ECU. It seems that the only thing preventing spark is the ECU grounding the low voltage side of all three ignition coils.
 

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Welcome to the forum, arr101. Since the bike was running when it crashed and now you can't get spark to the plugs, I suggest stepping back and putting some deep thought into how the crash could cause this condition.
I have had ignition issues where the problem was a poor ground that seemed to be unrelated to the ignition circuit. I wonder if the impact could have caused something like that.
You have definitely done some great sleuthing and good luck with the rest.
 

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Sorry for my quick judgment, i may be a little nuts. :wink2:


I noticed you have a test light. is it an LED lamp? if so, this trick i have used may help you.
due to the LEDs low current draw, you can safely check for an open ground, without shorting the circuit.
connect the clip to a known good ground, and use the other end to test the ground wires. the LED will light if the ground is OPEN, providing the circuit pulls enough to light the LED.


~Travis
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It is an LED. I've never tried it but it makes sense.

Thanks, I'll have to keep that in my arsenal of investigative tools.
 

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arr101
Welcome to the forum
This a great place to be for good things and in this case bad
The accident damage is definitely a place to start
Did it stall in the wreck by electrical or mechanical? has something in the engine moved? Old fuel?
I have an 03 with a gremlin of no start intermittently( once a year ish)
I have traced mine to the IPG wiring going thru the rubber grommet at the timing cover
These are great bikes but a real pain to work on when everything is buried
Keep us in the loop
Good luck
Enjoy


everyday is a good day.....some are just gooder than others
 

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The one Thing not mentioned. Set the side stand down and crank the engine for more than ten seconds. You should not drop below 10.5 volts. You should see if the FI light flashes. Count any flashes. For this is important, this only happens if the side stand switch is working which will light the S indicator. No flashes and you are back to possible bank angle sensor, Which does not set a code for some reason.

Check for power to the coils and if you have enough tupperware off at the injectors. You should have power for at least a couple of seconds at both. They actually ground inside the ECU. SO check ECU grounds as they are extremely important. I have fixed too many to count cars, by cleaning ECU grounds.
I have replaced a lot of ECU's but I have also been working on cars for a long time. But never go there first until I have not seriously tried to condemn a particular component that would be a heck of a lot cheaper than a ECU. So it is important to me to check once, twice, three times before I want to spend a client's money on a non returnable part that did not fix the concern.
As far as handle bars I have a set, If you want to pay postage, as I installed Helibars on my wing so do not need anymore. If your Heated hand grips still work I also will let you use the special tool needed to remove the grips from yours to install on new bars. If interested PM me.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
jcsouders,

I did the first comment. No FI flashes as there are no set codes, S was indicating on dash. For sanity, I shorted the green/red at the bank angle sensor. Power at the coils were good. No ground from ECU to any of the three ignition coils. So I checked the IPG. See picture of first post of the oscilloscope graph. Sorry the picture was upside down. I have not checked all three grounds at the black connector #9, #19 and #20. But that's my next task before replacing ECU.

I had just ordered the handlebars. Which figures, I'm always one step behind and never lucky. My right heated grip and throttle tube were damaged in the previous owner's wreck.

Thanks for all of the great tips, sounds like I need to check those three grounds. Ironically, there are none on the gray connector
 

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Discussion Starter #17
ECM and ignition coil grounds were good. The only power wire to the ECM was good. I'll post the results of another ECM in a couple of days. Thanks for all of the help.
 

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I am not sure, especially with long distance diagnosis. But since your connector is disconnected from the ECM you should check every single wire against the ground with a ohms meter. Following a diagram you should have no electrical shorts to ground. If you do, "could" be a concern. That is why the diagram. Some sensors in a car can ground through a separate circuit. Another thing is look really close to any cable stays that are collapsed. Maybe a couple of pinched wires touching each other. Seen that in improperly repaired wrecked cars. Especially at the top of the triple T. That right handle bar controller has a lot of wires that could have smashed together. Disconnect that big connector and check ohms against each other.
ECM and ignition coil grounds were good. The only power wire to the ECM was good. I'll post the results of another ECM in a couple of days. Thanks for all of the help.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
 

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And an incandescent light bulb is really the way to go in checking grounds. If it can light a LED which is real low voltage/amperage to burn. It takes more voltage/amperage to drive a real 12v light bulb. A poor ground will light a LED but may not light a 12v bulb.
 

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And an incandescent light bulb is really the way to go in checking grounds. If it can light a LED which is real low voltage/amperage to burn. It takes more voltage/amperage to drive a real 12v light bulb. A poor ground will light a LED but may not light a 12v bulb.

Excellent point, i am used to working with low voltage/current digital electronics, where pulling too much current can damage the MCU.


~Travis
 
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