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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I picked up my brand new Honda Goldwing GL1800 from the dealer with a Tow-pac unit installed. Service man told me the Honda suspension has to be disconnected while the Tow-Pac is on the Goldwing. I recently found out from the Tow-Pac factory that is a definitely a bad thing. What damage if any has been done to my Goldwing after riding it this way for 7000 miles.
I appreciate any and all feedback.
Thank you
 

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Hello and welcome to the forum.
I know with the Voyager kit, the GL1800 suspension works with the unit. It doesn't make any sense to disconnect the bike suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
disconnected suspension please help

I picked up my brand new Honda Goldwing GL1800 from the dealer with a Tow-pac unit installed. Service man told me the Honda suspension has to be disconnected while the Tow-Pac is on the Goldwing. I recently found out from the Tow-Pac factory that is a definitely a bad thing. What damage if any has been done to my Goldwing after riding it this way for 7000 miles.
I appreciate any and all feedback.
Thank you
 

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I know on the Voyager unit the GL1800 suspension is left intact and set to 80%.
I am sure the manufacturer of your unit has must d the same.
You may not have done damage to the bike, but the ride must have been horrible.
 

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I have installed a tow pac unit on my 1500 and my 1800 and you do not have to unhook the suspension on the wing. Your service man does not know what he is talking about. The tow pac unit is not much more that a trailer hitch attached to the frame of the wing and then the wheel part of the tow pac is hooked to the hitch.
 

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What was his explanation for disconnecting the suspension??
 

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Moon, I have to ask what he meant by "disconnected suspension".

I would hope he meant that he disconnected the pre-load adjustor switch, not something like "took out the rear shock". :eek:

If he disconnected the pre-load, no big deal. I would guess that he set it where he wanted it, and disabled it so you can't adjust it yourself. In any case, it doesn't really matter much where it's set.
The adjustor puts more tension on (compresses) the rear spring, keeping the shock in the proper place to give you full travel without bottoming out. Other than affecting ride quality and bottoming out, there is no chance of damage. In fact, a lot of (well, most) preload adjustors don't start working at 1, but somewhere between 4 and 9 or worse. At least on US made bikes, they never really get it filled properly, and they don't consider it a serviceable or rebuildable item, so the dealer won't / can't address the issue. Given that the the preload number gives inconsistent actual values on different bikes, the only way to truly set it properly is to fill / rebuild the actuator if you don't start at 1, then measure the sag and dial in the correct amount for the bike and weight of rider, pax, luggage, etc. This pre-load number will change based on how much weight the bike is carrying at a given time. So, if he didn't take a sag measurement with your bike at it's total fighting weight, (and you would know, because you had to be there while he did it) the preload nimber is kind of random anyway.

To check where your adjustor kicks in:
Put the bike on the center stand.
Run the adjustor to zero.
As Elmer Fudd says, "be vewy vewy quiet.. "
Start running the adjustor up, listening for a change in pitch. When it changes from "eeeeeeeeeee" to "OOOOOO" stop.
Read the number, that is where it stops pushing air and starts pumping fluid.

On the other hand, inconceivable as this sounds to me, if he actually went through the work (and it's a lot of work) to somehow disconnect, disable, or remove the rear shock, DO NOT ride the bike.

Let us know what shakes out.

=Dave=
Old Dog Moto Works
 

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I hope Dave's explanation is true, otherwise that service tech should be in for a world of hurt. Regardless of what the end result is, once the bike is set back to rights, find another shop to do your work
 

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I'll merge this with the other thread
 
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