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If FI (Fault Indicator) light comes on pull over but DO NOT shut bike off. Put in neutral and put side stand down, RPM’s below 1500. This signals the ECM to send the error code to the FI light. Count the number of long and short flashes. This will give you the error code. Also known as Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL)

If you shut the bike off the error code is lost - sort of. It will be retained in the ECM but it is harder to get out. If the bike stops and the will not restart you can get the FI light to flash the error code by cranking the engine for 10 seconds. The FI light will then flash the error code.

Long Blink = 10 Short Blink = 1
i.e. long long long short short short = 33 check error code 33

Number of MIL blinks .Symptoms
.Cause

0 No blinks • Engine does not start

• Open circuit in the power input and ground wires of the ECM: • Faulty bank angle sensor
• Open circuit in bank angle sensor related wires: • Faulty FI IGN relay: • Open circuit in FI IGN relay related wires
• Faulty engine stop switch: • Open circuit in engine stop switch related wires: • Faulty ECM: • Blown FI IGN fuse (20 A)
• Blown ST. KILL fuse (10 A):

0 No blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open circuit in MIL wire: • Faulty combination meter: • Faulty ECM


0 Stays lit • Engine operates normally
• Short circuit in service check connector wire: • Short circuit in MIL wire: • Faulty ECM


1 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected MAP sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in MAP sensor wire: • Faulty MAP sensor


7 Blinks • Hard to start at a low temperature (ECM controls using preset value; coolant temperature: 85° C/185° F)
• Loose or poorly connected ECT sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in ECT sensor wire: • Faulty ECT sensor


8 Blinks • Poor engine response when operating the throttle quickly (ECM controls using preset value; throttle opening: 0° )
• Loose or poorly connected TP sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in TP sensor wire: • Faulty TP sensor


9 Blinks • Engine operates normally (ECM controls using preset value; intake air temperature: 28° C/82° F)
• Loose or poorly connected IAT sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in TP sensor wire: • Faulty IAT sensor


10 Blinks • Engine operates normally at low altitude
• Engine idles roughly at a high altitude (ECM controls using preset value; barometric pressure: 760 mm Hg/1,013 hPa)
• Loose or poorly connected BARO sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in BARO sensor wire: • Faulty BARO sensor


11 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected vehicle speed sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in vehicle speed sensor wire: • Faulty vehicle speed sensor


12 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 1 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 1 injector wire: • Faulty No. 1 injector


13 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 2 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 2 injector wire: • Faulty No. 2 injector


14 No blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 3 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 3 injector wire: • Faulty No. 3 injector


15 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 4 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 4 injector wire: • Faulty No. 4 injector



16 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 5 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 5 injector wire: • Faulty No. 5 injector


17 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 6 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 6 injector wire: • Faulty No. 6 injector


18 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected camshaft position sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in camshaft position sensor wire: • Faulty camshaft position sensor


19 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected ignition pulse generator connector:
• Open or short circuit in ignition pulse generator wire: • Faulty ignition pulse generator


21 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in right O2 sensor wire: • Faulty right O2 sensor


22 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in left O2 sensor wire: • Faulty left O2 sensor


23 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in right O2 sensor heater wire: • Faulty right O2 sensor


24 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in left O2 sensor heater wire: • Faulty left O2 sensor


25 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected right knock sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in right knock sensor wire: • Faulty right knock sensor


26 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected left knock sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in left knock sensor wire: • Faulty left knock sensor

29 Blinks • Engine stalls, hard to start, rough idling
• Loose or poorly connected idle air control (IAC) valve connector: • Open or short circuit in IAC valve wire: • Faulty idle air control valve


33 Blinks • ECM does not hold the self diagnostic data
• Faulty E2-PROM in ECM • Engine operates normally


41 No blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected connector in gear position switch related circuits
• Open or short circuit in gear position switch wires: • Faulty gear position switch: • Faulty clutch switch: • Faulty side stand switch

...................

Engine cranks but won’t start
• No fuel in tank, • No fuel to injector, – Clogged fuel filter, – Pinched or clogged fuel feed hose, – Pinched or clogged fuel tank breather tube, – Faulty fuel pump, – Faulty fuel pump circuits, • Intake air leak, • Contaminated / deteriorated fuel, • Faulty fuel injector, • Idle air control valve stuck closed, • No spark at plug Faulty ignition system

Engine stalls, hard to start, rough idling
• Restricted fuel feed hose, • Contaminated/deteriorated fuel, • Intake air leak, • Faulty idle air control valve, • Restricted fuel tank breather tube, • Misadjusted idle adjusting screw, • Faulty ignition system

Afterburn when engine braking is used
• Faulty pulse secondary air injection (PAIR) system, – Faulty PAIR control solenoid valve, – Faulty PAIR check valve, – Clogged hose of the PAIR system, • Faulty ignition system

Backfiring or misfiring during acceleration
• Faulty ignition system

Poor performance drive-ability and poor fuel economy
• Pinched or clogged fuel feed hose, • Faulty pressure regulator, • Faulty ignition system
 

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Thanks for posting all that information. Its a ton of stuff to type in and I hope everyone who doesn't have a service manual will print it out and keep it handy. Ya done good Val. :D Isaac
 

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Thanks Val.
 

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tryke lady,
Thanks for posting. Something to SAVE for sure.
Hopefully someone else will benefit from this older post. I know I haven't seen it before.
 

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Trike Lady, is there a way to connect a laptop to the GoldWing computer?
There must be because there are companies that can re-flash the ECU or ECM, whatever Honda calls it. One popular company is Guhl Motors. Don is the guy to talk to there. I assume you would need special wiring hookups and special computer programming to connect and modify or even to connect and diagnose.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You would need to get Honda's version of 'Digital Technician' and the correct cable to hook the diagnostic port of the Wing to the computer.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The software is probably available to Honda Techs through the dealership, possibly not available to the general public. You may want to ask the Honda dealer if the software is available and if they'd sell it to you and if so, how much? Might be expensive.
 

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I just received the Honda HIM which I believe stands for Honda Interface Module . This is a device that connects to a computer running the Honda software and the DLC connector on the bike or car. I haven't had a chance to connect it to the bike to see if it can read the codes but it did read the codes on my Acura MDX . Hopefully I will get a chance to see if it can read the bike codes soon. Will post my results here .
 

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Preliminary test have not been able to connect to bike ECM. But I haven't given up yet.
 

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Great info, thanks for sharing.
 

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The Honda cars use OBD2 and the wing doesn't use this. You can cancel the codes with the DLC reset tool that basically shorts two of the pins together on the DLC connector. Some of the codes will go away anyway when the failure has been corrected.
 

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You would need to get Honda's version of 'Digital Technician' and the correct cable to hook the diagnostic port of the Wing to the computer.
Thank you for giving us these codes and for taking the time to type them all in.

Would you know where the diagnostic port is located on the bike?
 

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How would one read the codes if they are on a trike? I have no kickstand!

FI light appeared about 150 miles into a 250 mile ride in heavy rain. I notice that OD light comes on when I'm in neutral and the motor is running, too.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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How would one read the codes if they are on a trike? I have no kickstand!

FI light appeared about 150 miles into a 250 mile ride in heavy rain. I notice that OD light comes on when I'm in neutral and the motor is running, too.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Find the wires where the side stand switch is or used to be. If the switch is still there, you have to wait until the FI light is on, stop and put it in neutral, then move the switch clockwise until the “S” on the dash lights and the FI light should start blinking the code in long and short blinks. Long blink =10, short blink = 1. If the switch is gone, then disconnect the green wire from the green/white wire and then connect the green wire to the yellow/black wire. This will simulate the side stand in the down position and the FI light should flash the code. If you turn off the key before doing this procedure, the ECM may forget the code and it won’t flash the light, so don’t turn off the key until you get the code.
 

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Find the wires where the side stand switch is or used to be. If the switch is still there, you have to wait until the FI light is on, stop and put it in neutral, then move the switch clockwise until the “S” on the dash lights and the FI light should start blinking the code in long and short blinks. Long blink =10, short blink = 1. If the switch is gone, then disconnect the green wire from the green/white wire and then connect the green wire to the yellow/black wire. This will simulate the side stand in the down position and the FI light should flash the code. If you turn off the key before doing this procedure, the ECM may forget the code and it won’t flash the light, so don’t turn off the key until you get the code.
Thanks! It went away for a couple of days, so I was thinking it might have just been the heavy rain... but on a warm sunny day, it came back on the long run from St. Agatha ME to Saint John, NB. I'll probably wait until I get home and see if it recurs before trying to read it.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
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