I bought my first 'wing last spring, and love it to pieces, but on my first long ride, I set all the right buttons, and nothing, nada, zip. No cruise control. I would really like to have this work, as I plan some long rides this spring and summer. Just a few possibilities to look into. I appreciate the help. Thanks
GL1500 cruise control issues
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First, welcome to the forum from Pennsylvania. Some places for you to start looking. Check for a blown fuse or connection problem. Sometimes the switches wear out but often there is dirt in the micro switch. Since the cruise turns off if you engage the brake or clutch you might want to check the micrp switches on those two items also. Good luck..
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There is a cruise ON button and a cruise SET button, Does the cruise ON button work? If so then is your problem that the cruise won't set? If that is it, try pushing out on the clutch lever as you push the SET button, then try pushing out on the front brake lever as you push the SET button, there is a micro switch on each one of those levers that could have gone bad, Also if the bike has after market (chrome) levers on it that might be the cause also,
cruise control problem
I have only just become a member and read about your problem with your cruise control. Here is the complete fault finding procedure if you need it.
Good luck. Mick.
Cruise Control System Overview.
Detail Cruise Control system.
This document covers the cruise control system as fitted by the factory. The system comprises various components and includes the following:
Master control unit
Actuator switches (handle bar mounted)
Safety switches
Vacuum system
Each part will be discussed within the document to give you as much information as possible
The Master control unit.
The master control unit accepts all the system inputs and gives various outputs to control the vehicles speed. The master unit is principally a microprocessor that has its own software built on board. The unit monitors the inputs from the actuation and safety switches and offers outputs to control the vacuum valves and cruise indicator lights.
The Actuator switches.
The actuator switches mounted on the right side handle bar control unit allow the system to be armed by the cruise on switch and speed controlled by the set-deceleration / resume-acceleration switch.
Safety Switches
Various safety switches are employed within the system and are as follows
Front brake cruise cancel
Clutch cancel
Throttle cancel
Rear brake cruise cancel
4th gear switch
5th gear switch
In this section it must be noted that the 4th & 5th gear switches are inside the engine and can only be tested from the outside, there is no need to dismantle the engine unless you really feel the need.
The throttle, Front and rear brake switches
Throttle switch
The throttle switch will disengage the cruise control system if turned fully in the deceleration direction.
The front and rear brake switches
If either/both the brake switches are depressed the cruise system will cancel automatically
The Clutch switch
The clutch switch works in the same way as the Front and rear brake switch
4th and 5th Gear switches
The 4th and 5th gear switches are mounted within the engine the switch has an output to every gear position including the neutral position for clarity we have only shown the neutral.4th and 5th gear positions.
The full testing guide, which you can use at your own risk, can be downloaded as a printable Word Document. The document comes with pictures to help you find your way around.
It must be understood by you, that the use of this Technical help file is used entirely at your own risk, no responsibility or liability can be placed on the writer whatsoever.
Before you get started you should have read the introduction on the page you have just left, this gives an overview of the system. All terminology regarding left and right assumes you are sat on the vehicle and facing forward. You will need to take off the seat of the vehicle, towards the rear of the seat there is a plastic cover box on either side and look identical, on the right side of the vehicle is the cruise control box with the plug we need access to. Unclip the box from the holding bracket and open the unit by the self locking clips, inside the box will be a plug and socket. once open, unplug the plug and socket and take the box away and put it safe.
The photo shows the plug disconnected. . The part to the left (plug) goes to the cruise control unit, the right (socket) goes into the main wiring loom to the safety, control switches relays and vacuum system solenoids. This is where we carry out all the electrical testing from. If you want to know where the control unit is located, well it's right under the trunk and a bit of a pain to reach.... but at this stage you don't need to go there. As you look at the photo I have added PIN numbers to the picture to allow you easy reference to the socket. Warnings PINS 2, 3, 4, 5, 11, 14, 15, 20 SHOULD NOT BE TESTED.
Lets get started with the tests.....
The first test is to ensure that we have a supply available to the cruise control unit, this is carried out with the test meter set to read DC Volts. The Red test probe should be connected to Pin 17and the black test probe connected to the frame. Turn on the ignition switch and press the cruise "ON" switch to activate the cruise control system, the meter should then read approx 12 Volts.
Turn off the Cruise "ON" switch and the Ignition switch. Take out the ignition key and put it in your pocket.
The following tests should be carried out with the test meter set to read Resistance or buzzer.
Do Not turn on the ignition or Cruise "ON" switch unless told to do so
Cruise set /deceleration & resume/ acceleration Switch's
The first test to be carried out is the operation of the set/deceleration & resume/acceleration switches. This is accomplished by putting the Red test probe to Pin 17 and the Black test probe into Pin 21 Push the set/deceleration switch the meter should then show a low resistance or buzz (if available). Change the black test probe to Pin 22 and push the resume/acceleration button the same readings should occur as for the Push the set/deceleration switch.
Change the black test probe to Pin 16, you should show a resistance of around 95 ohms, if you do then relay 2 coil is fine.
Clutch Switch
To test the clutch switch operation we need to put the Red test probe to Pin 17, change the black test probe to Pin 12, when the clutch switch is pulled in the meter should show a low resistance or buzz (if available).
Throttle, Front and rear brake switches
The next bit needs a little explanation so you are aware of whats going on. The throttle, Front and rear brake switches are wired in series this means we can test all of them at once, these switches are the safety circuit which holds in relay 2 (the cruise set relay) which applies the live feed to the vacuum solenoids.
To test this circuit we need to put the Red test probe to Pin 17, change the black test probe to Pin 6, The meter should be showing a low resistance or buzz (if available), when the front brake switch is pulled in the meter should show a high resistance or the buzzer (if available) should stop, releasing the brake lever should turn the buzz back on, repeat the test for the rear brake lever.
The throttle is tested by turning the throttle all the way down (in the decel direction) and the same results should occur
If you do not hear the buzzer straight away, one of the switches or cables between them is faulty.
Cruise system indicator lights (Dash panel)
Place the Red test probe in pin 17, turn on the cruise"ON" switch (right handlebar switch), place the black test probe into Pin 18, the meter should read approx 11 ohms. this tells you that the "cruise on indicator lamp" is fine. Now Place the black test probe in pin 7, the meter should read approx11 ohms again, this tells you that the "cruise set indicator lamp" is fine.
4th and 5th Gear Switches
The 4th and 5th gear switches are mounted within the engine but can also be tested from the socket. with the red test probe connected to Pin 10 and the black test probe to the frame, begin to take the bike into 4th gear, you may need a hand to work the back wheel to get there, once you do the meter should show a resistance of 0ohms, change the red test probe to Pin 9 and go up to 5th gear, the test should have the same result.
Solenoid Valve testing
To test the solenoid valves on the vacuum system follow the procedure as follows;
The Red test probe should be placed in Pin 8, the black test probe in Pin 19, you should read a resistance value of approx82ohms. This tests the solenoid valves for the Vent and Vacuum valve.
The Red test probe should now be placed in Pin 8, the black test probe in Pin 13, you should read a resistance value of approx 82ohms. This tests the solenoid valves for the Relief valve and Vacuum valve.
The Red test probe should now be placed in Pin 13, the black test probe in Pin 19, you should read a resistance value of approx 82ohms. This tests the solenoid valves for the Relief valve and Vent valve.
If the readings above are correct your vacuum valves are fine, this covers the testing of the electrical system other than relay 2 latching circuit connections, this is due to the relay being driven by the cruise control unit. This could be achieved by putting a shorting wire across the open connections of the relay base but this is not worth doing unless you know which terminal to put it across. If all the above tests are fine then its down to either the vacuum system or the cruise control unit itself, I know you don't want to know this but the unit costs around £700.00. so be sure you test everything. you can Reassemble the plug and socket, put the cover box back in place. but do not replace the seat yet
Testing the Vacuum system.
To test the vacuum system you will need to have the engine running, Firstly take off the left side inner fairing to gain access to the solenoid valve assembly, This is easily locates and looks like a black steel block with a vent, pipes and cable coming out of it, disconnect the pipe that goes down to the actuator body, start the engine, and suck on the open end of the pipe very gently (or you may rupture the diaphragm) once you start to suck (gently) the engine revs should increase, if this occurs without losing the vacuum in your mouth put your tongue over the pipe. This should maintain the vacuum and stabilize the engine rev's. If it does your vacuum system would appear to be working fine from the valve assembly, However the fault could lie in the pipe work prior to the valve assembly. That's when you want the Professional help ( have you seen the amount of pipes on the engine ) trust me don't go there.
Hi,
I have only just become a member and read about your problem with your cruise control. Here is the complete fault finding procedure if you need it.
Good luck. Mick.
Cruise Control System Overview.
Detail Cruise Control system.
This document covers the cruise control system as fitted by the factory. The system comprises various components and includes the following:
Master control unit
Actuator switches (handle bar mounted)
Safety switches
Vacuum system
Each part will be discussed within the document to give you as much information as possible
The Master control unit.
The master control unit accepts all the system inputs and gives various outputs to control the vehicles speed. The master unit is principally a microprocessor that has its own software built on board. The unit monitors the inputs from the actuation and safety switches and offers outputs to control the vacuum valves and cruise indicator lights.
The Actuator switches.
The actuator switches mounted on the right side handle bar control unit allow the system to be armed by the cruise on switch and speed controlled by the set-deceleration / resume-acceleration switch.
Safety Switches
Various safety switches are employed within the system and are as follows
Front brake cruise cancel
Clutch cancel
Throttle cancel
Rear brake cruise cancel
4th gear switch
5th gear switch
In this section it must be noted that the 4th & 5th gear switches are inside the engine and can only be tested from the outside, there is no need to dismantle the engine unless you really feel the need.
The throttle, Front and rear brake switches
Throttle switch
The throttle switch will disengage the cruise control system if turned fully in the deceleration direction.
The front and rear brake switches
If either/both the brake switches are depressed the cruise system will cancel automatically
The Clutch switch
The clutch switch works in the same way as the Front and rear brake switch
4th and 5th Gear switches
The 4th and 5th gear switches are mounted within the engine the switch has an output to every gear position including the neutral position for clarity we have only shown the neutral.4th and 5th gear positions.
The full testing guide, which you can use at your own risk, can be downloaded as a printable Word Document. The document comes with pictures to help you find your way around.
It must be understood by you, that the use of this Technical help file is used entirely at your own risk, no responsibility or liability can be placed on the writer whatsoever.
Before you get started you should have read the introduction on the page you have just left, this gives an overview of the system. All terminology regarding left and right assumes you are sat on the vehicle and facing forward. You will need to take off the seat of the vehicle, towards the rear of the seat there is a plastic cover box on either side and look identical, on the right side of the vehicle is the cruise control box with the plug we need access to. Unclip the box from the holding bracket and open the unit by the self locking clips, inside the box will be a plug and socket. once open, unplug the plug and socket and take the box away and put it safe.
The photo shows the plug disconnected. . The part to the left (plug) goes to the cruise control unit, the right (socket) goes into the main wiring loom to the safety, control switches relays and vacuum system solenoids. This is where we carry out all the electrical testing from. If you want to know where the control unit is located, well it's right under the trunk and a bit of a pain to reach.... but at this stage you don't need to go there. As you look at the photo I have added PIN numbers to the picture to allow you easy reference to the socket. Warnings PINS 2, 3, 4, 5, 11, 14, 15, 20 SHOULD NOT BE TESTED.
Lets get started with the tests.....
The first test is to ensure that we have a supply available to the cruise control unit, this is carried out with the test meter set to read DC Volts. The Red test probe should be connected to Pin 17and the black test probe connected to the frame. Turn on the ignition switch and press the cruise "ON" switch to activate the cruise control system, the meter should then read approx 12 Volts.
Turn off the Cruise "ON" switch and the Ignition switch. Take out the ignition key and put it in your pocket.
The following tests should be carried out with the test meter set to read Resistance or buzzer.
Do Not turn on the ignition or Cruise "ON" switch unless told to do so
Cruise set /deceleration & resume/ acceleration Switch's
The first test to be carried out is the operation of the set/deceleration & resume/acceleration switches. This is accomplished by putting the Red test probe to Pin 17 and the Black test probe into Pin 21 Push the set/deceleration switch the meter should then show a low resistance or buzz (if available). Change the black test probe to Pin 22 and push the resume/acceleration button the same readings should occur as for the Push the set/deceleration switch.
Change the black test probe to Pin 16, you should show a resistance of around 95 ohms, if you do then relay 2 coil is fine.
Clutch Switch
To test the clutch switch operation we need to put the Red test probe to Pin 17, change the black test probe to Pin 12, when the clutch switch is pulled in the meter should show a low resistance or buzz (if available).
Throttle, Front and rear brake switches
The next bit needs a little explanation so you are aware of whats going on. The throttle, Front and rear brake switches are wired in series this means we can test all of them at once, these switches are the safety circuit which holds in relay 2 (the cruise set relay) which applies the live feed to the vacuum solenoids.
To test this circuit we need to put the Red test probe to Pin 17, change the black test probe to Pin 6, The meter should be showing a low resistance or buzz (if available), when the front brake switch is pulled in the meter should show a high resistance or the buzzer (if available) should stop, releasing the brake lever should turn the buzz back on, repeat the test for the rear brake lever.
The throttle is tested by turning the throttle all the way down (in the decel direction) and the same results should occur
If you do not hear the buzzer straight away, one of the switches or cables between them is faulty.
Cruise system indicator lights (Dash panel)
Place the Red test probe in pin 17, turn on the cruise"ON" switch (right handlebar switch), place the black test probe into Pin 18, the meter should read approx 11 ohms. this tells you that the "cruise on indicator lamp" is fine. Now Place the black test probe in pin 7, the meter should read approx11 ohms again, this tells you that the "cruise set indicator lamp" is fine.
4th and 5th Gear Switches
The 4th and 5th gear switches are mounted within the engine but can also be tested from the socket. with the red test probe connected to Pin 10 and the black test probe to the frame, begin to take the bike into 4th gear, you may need a hand to work the back wheel to get there, once you do the meter should show a resistance of 0ohms, change the red test probe to Pin 9 and go up to 5th gear, the test should have the same result.
Solenoid Valve testing
To test the solenoid valves on the vacuum system follow the procedure as follows;
The Red test probe should be placed in Pin 8, the black test probe in Pin 19, you should read a resistance value of approx82ohms. This tests the solenoid valves for the Vent and Vacuum valve.
The Red test probe should now be placed in Pin 8, the black test probe in Pin 13, you should read a resistance value of approx 82ohms. This tests the solenoid valves for the Relief valve and Vacuum valve.
The Red test probe should now be placed in Pin 13, the black test probe in Pin 19, you should read a resistance value of approx 82ohms. This tests the solenoid valves for the Relief valve and Vent valve.
If the readings above are correct your vacuum valves are fine, this covers the testing of the electrical system other than relay 2 latching circuit connections, this is due to the relay being driven by the cruise control unit. This could be achieved by putting a shorting wire across the open connections of the relay base but this is not worth doing unless you know which terminal to put it across. If all the above tests are fine then its down to either the vacuum system or the cruise control unit itself, I know you don't want to know this but the unit costs around £700.00. so be sure you test everything. you can Reassemble the plug and socket, put the cover box back in place. but do not replace the seat yet
Testing the Vacuum system.
To test the vacuum system you will need to have the engine running, Firstly take off the left side inner fairing to gain access to the solenoid valve assembly, This is easily locates and looks like a black steel block with a vent, pipes and cable coming out of it, disconnect the pipe that goes down to the actuator body, start the engine, and suck on the open end of the pipe very gently (or you may rupture the diaphragm) once you start to suck (gently) the engine revs should increase, if this occurs without losing the vacuum in your mouth put your tongue over the pipe. This should maintain the vacuum and stabilize the engine rev's. If it does your vacuum system would appear to be working fine from the valve assembly, However the fault could lie in the pipe work prior to the valve assembly. That's when you want the Professional help ( have you seen the amount of pipes on the engine ) trust me don't go there.
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9,851 Posts
Mickray, welcome to the forum from Pennsylvania. Lots of nice folks on here and good information. Enjoy the site and ride safe...
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5 Posts
1500 cruise control issues
This is a very interesting post and would be very useful if there were actually pictures of the the numbered connector pins instead of imbedded Volkswagen advertisements. Can anyone one help out I am having the same problem as Poppajeep!
This is a very interesting post and would be very useful if there were actually pictures of the the numbered connector pins instead of imbedded Volkswagen advertisements. Can anyone one help out I am having the same problem as Poppajeep!
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351 Posts
That's really funny....you can't tell what the picture is showing when the advertisment for the Volkswagon Tourag comes up and not the pic? Huh.... LOL must be you.This is a very interesting post and would be very useful if there were actually pictures of the the numbered connector pins instead of imbedded Volkswagen advertisements. Can anyone one help out I am having the same problem as Poppajeep!
I wish I could help with your cruise control problem, I can't but I sure hope that mine continues to work.
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5 Posts
Problem fixed! I discovered that while the motorcycle was at Pensacola Motorsports for carburetor service the mechanics unplugged cruised control module from the main harness and left it that way.
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11,798 Posts
I doubt he'll let us know, he hasn't been on sense January of 2011.
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5,507 Posts
Ok no Tease it works.
Take seat off and then follow this link. I did not cut the wires I pushed the pins out and then swapped and pushed them back in. Trick is I used a 12 volt probe light to push the deal that locks the pins in and used a small screwdriver to push the two pins out.
End result will be in 4 th gear cruise will engage at 26 MPH in 5 gear it will engage and hold way faster than you want to go.
http://bobsold.goldwingfacts.com/wingcruisecontrol.html
I copied this to a word doc then printed it out, hardest part was getting the loom out of the black box, take the clip off the black box and is way easier to work with.
Néed any advice you can reach me at 806-339-4409
Take seat off and then follow this link. I did not cut the wires I pushed the pins out and then swapped and pushed them back in. Trick is I used a 12 volt probe light to push the deal that locks the pins in and used a small screwdriver to push the two pins out.
End result will be in 4 th gear cruise will engage at 26 MPH in 5 gear it will engage and hold way faster than you want to go.
http://bobsold.goldwingfacts.com/wingcruisecontrol.html
I copied this to a word doc then printed it out, hardest part was getting the loom out of the black box, take the clip off the black box and is way easier to work with.
Néed any advice you can reach me at 806-339-4409
Joined
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5,507 Posts
It will be the third and fourth wire you swap in the. Top of the loom closest to the front of the bike. Took longer. To figure out how to do than do it. I would suggest another pair of hands for holding a light and the loom while you have one hand on the keeper and the other on a small screwdriver to push out the pins. Push the Pins out of the Female side of the loom. Once you have the loom in the air you have to push toward the rear of the bike to release the pins. Test probe or ice pick would work great.
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